Schocki

I'm as of now the first 928 owner with an oil pan gasket from Realgaskets.
ROG100 and I just finished the job and it was not that bad at all. Total time to do it is about 5 hours.

We put the car on jackstands and supported the engine from top with my engine hoist and disconnected the battery.


Next step was to remove the sway bar and we dropped the steering rack. We removed the lower 19mm nuts that hold the motor mounts in place. We raised the engine after this about 1.5". This allows for more clearance later on to get the gasket in place.

The alternator belt has to come off and the rear cooling cover was removed. The alternator has to be moved out of the way to access all the bolts. Starter motor was removed.

Dropped the cats partially to remove the lower bellhousing. This allows for easy cleaning of the rear oil pan surfaces.

Disconnect the front oil level sensor and remove all the oil pan bolts. This is not as hard a sI thought but I would highly recommend to buy a 10mm gear wrench. That thing is worth every penny. All bolts are the same except 4 are slightly shorter. Those go into the holes that are slightly lower on the oil pan, obvious when you see it.

The oil pan is lose now and can be partially dropped. the factory cork gasket came right off and did not leave any material on the aluminium surfaces
That made cleaning really easy . I cleaned the outside and the oil pan gasket surfaces with brake cleaner.





Positioning of the new gasket was very easy and did not require the removal of the oil pump tube. Cleaned the gasket surfaces again with rubbing alcohol just to make sure not to harm the high temperature silicone and bolted everything back together. All the oil pan bolts were tightened with Loctite and the well known torqued by thumb pressure method.

Here are some pictures with the new gasket in place




The new gasket looks very nice and is temperature resistant up to 400 degrees Fahrenheit, guaranteed for life and is re-usable.
The old gasket was only 1.5mm thick on the mating surfaces. The pictures below show a good view of the crushed gasket and the former thickness.





Changing the gasket is not a big deal and I have to thank Roger again for his outstanding support! When are we doing your Weissach Roger

DR

Schocki,

BTW, I forgot to thank you for the tip about RealGaskets. As it turned out they are less than an hour from my location. I talked with Harold and we are now selling their 928 Oil Pan gaskets, plus they are going to make some other custom gaskets for our supercharger kits.

I have a few of these gaskets in stock (bought all he had) and I am combining them with some lock washers to make a kit. The lock washers will help make up the slight thickness difference (even thou it is not an issue) and hopefully help keep the original bolts from loosening up as they normally do.

Thanks again for the tip, I owe you one!

ROG100

Say goodbye to Cork gaskets and leaking oil pans.
Very impressed and will certainly be using them on all my cars.
Fit and forget and even reuse - what more do you need.

Schocki

David,
This is awesome! I promised Harold to advertise his gaskets here on Rennlist and hopefully he can help us in the quest for a bulletproof design.

I am thrilled to hear that you guys sell those now for Harold. I never thought that my idea would be so successfull
I use gaskets from REALGSAKETS for years in my 911 and they are great.

BTW what is the price???

DR

Hi Schocki,

>BTW what is the price???

To be honest I forgot exactly what he charged me for those, I do know he did not have any markup in the price as the price you paid was "wholesale". I think I got them in quantity for $2 less than you paid ($29-30??). The lock washers I am using are very inexpensive and I will only be doing a 25% markup so my best guess without digging out the paperwork is approx $35-38 for the kit. I will firm up the price next week.

Thanks again,

Tony

If there is a limited number at this point, put me on the list.
The bottom half of my engine is a MESS and i am not dealing with those cork gaskets again

ROG100

Tony,
Apart from " I don't want to wrench any more 10mm bolts" this was a very straightforward job with a very satisfying and permanent conclusion.
Highly recommended - I have the second gasket and my Weissach will be the lucky recipient.
Roger

G Man

Schocki. I have never seen an engine hoist like the one used in your first pic. Very clever. Is that hoist something that is readily available at a tool supplier?

Schocki

I bought mine from harborfreight but they don't sell it anymore. If you Google "Engine support" you should be able to find one. They are universal in size and need to be shortened slightly for the 928.

sharkmeister85

This sounds like a great product, at a reasonable price. Is this something that could be used for intake manifold gaskets or valve cover gaskets as well?
Glenn

BC

Any ideas on whether this material could be used on the 2V cam tower gaskets but at MUCH less thickness?

GlenL

The cam tower gaskets, along with the torque spec, sets the cam height over the valves. Love 'em or hate 'em, I'd never use anything but a Porsche or true OEM gasket there.

Now that rear cam cover has got to be done!

Bill Ball

Schocki:

Hey, that is a handy tool! I once used a stout pipe fastened to the crossbrace attachments and it bent one of them down a bit - the bar should have extended onto the lip - my bad. Bent right back up and none the worse for it, but this points out the attachments are weak while the fender lip on top of the unibody wall is strong. Seems obvious in retrospect, but I learned it the hard way.

This sure looks close to the one you have. It says it fits a 26 inch opening (we have about 36 inches), so should not need to be modded.
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...RST-500ES.HTML

Ew, here is is for a lower price...
http://www.handsontools.com/store-pr..._12630766.html

Others I found don't look quite as sturdy. This one is half the price and looks like it could do the job, although the minimum opening is 44 inches (modding needed) and it is only rated to 600 lbs. Perhaps not!
http://www.maxtool.com/cgi-bin/dbsea..._SEARCH=me4990

Expensive and not as appealing:
http://www.eagleequip.com/page/EE/PROD/HO/7532

ROG100

Schocki showed me an even cheaper method for those who are only going to do this once or twice.
Get a piece of 4" x 4" wood (maybe thicker) cut to the distance fender lip to fender lip.
Drill a hole directly above the enginge hoist point to take a long hook ended bolt.
Locate the hook of the bolt in the engine lift point and through the hole in the wood,
Raise the enginge using a jack under the oil pan and secure the hook bolt on top of the wood with a large washer and nut.
Remove the jack and you are in business.
I think Schocki has a picture of this.

By the way IIRC the tool schocki has is pretty much the same as the Porche tool in the WSM.
This is the correct way to lift the engine.
Thanks for the info Schocki

Schocki