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Would pan gasket change be easy if in two pieces

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Old 03-04-2007, 10:22 AM
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Ted928
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Default Would pan gasket change be easy if in two pieces

I have not changed my gasket (not yet leaking) but I have read that the change is very involved. Would it be straight forward if the cork gasket was in two pieces?
If so, has anyone tried it?
Old 03-04-2007, 10:44 AM
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heinrich
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how would it seal? It hardly does it in one pices right now. I don't think you'd buy anything at all with a 2-piece gasket because a one-piece can go where a 2-piece could under all circumstances. it's just a big cork lasso.
Old 03-04-2007, 11:14 AM
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Garth S
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It can be done by cutting the gasket ..... and this has held for ~3 years without a drip.
However, it you have a newer car with the tube type oil pickup ( vs the built in screen on the early 16v motors), the same method can be used to loop a gasket under the tube without cutting the gasket .... or snaking your arm in to unbolt ( whoops - dropped the 'effin bolt ) the tube.
Old 03-04-2007, 11:17 AM
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JP Rodkey
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Famously, that gasket wants to push outward from the block and pan halves - sorta like a hamburger in a bun. IMO, attempting to cut the gasket would just about guarantee failure.
Old 03-04-2007, 11:23 AM
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JP Rodkey
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Originally Posted by Garth S
It can be done by cutting the gasket ..... and this has held for ~3 years without a drip.
However, it you have a newer car with the tube type oil pickup ( vs the built in screen on the early 16v motors), the same method can be used to loop a gasket under the tube without cutting the gasket .... or snaking your arm in to unbolt ( whoops - dropped the 'effin bolt ) the tube.
I did remember someone(s) had done it. Good to know it's working out well for you. I get a bit **** about such things, and would likely be a bit paranoid (frequent checking and otherwise fretting a bit). More of a mental thing than anything else.
Old 03-04-2007, 11:41 AM
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Garth S
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Originally Posted by JP Rodkey
I did remember someone(s) had done it. Good to know it's working out well for you. I get a bit **** about such things, and would likely be a bit paranoid (frequent checking and otherwise fretting a bit). More of a mental thing than anything else.
The good thing is that there is zero pressure on this gasket - so as long as they are not over torqued, the glued gasket will be stable.

From one of my early careers in nuclear/chemical industry, it is common practice to cut and end glue O-rings in place for pressurized ancillary services.
Old 03-04-2007, 11:48 AM
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Mike Frye
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From one of my early careers in nuclear/chemical industry, it is common practice to cut and end glue O-rings in place for pressurized ancillary services.
You didn't work for NASA by any chance, did you?

Just kidding. It just seems counterintuitive to put a crease in a gasket that's got a bolt every 3 inches in an effort to maintain even seal/pressure.

I have considered snaking it around everything to see if it would work, but not cutting it.
Old 03-04-2007, 01:13 PM
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I have considered snaking it around everything to see if 
it would work, but not cutting it.
Yes, I have thought that woud be an easier approach; the "new" gaskets are relatively flexible.

Marton
Old 03-04-2007, 02:11 PM
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Garth S
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Originally Posted by NJSharkFan
You didn't work for NASA by any chance, did you?

Just kidding. It just seems counterintuitive to put a crease in a gasket that's got a bolt every 3 inches in an effort to maintain even seal/pressure.

I have considered snaking it around everything to see if it would work, but not cutting it.
This works for O-rings .
Basically the same for flat gaskets .... cut for max surface area and butt splice to not increase gasket thickness - no crease involved.
On your '85, I would snake the gasket under the pick-up: cannot do that on earlier cars ....
Old 03-04-2007, 02:25 PM
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heinrich
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Originally Posted by Garth S
It can be done by cutting the gasket ..... and this has held for ~3 years without a drip.
However, it you have a newer car with the tube type oil pickup ( vs the built in screen on the early 16v motors), the same method can be used to loop a gasket under the tube without cutting the gasket .... or snaking your arm in to unbolt ( whoops - dropped the 'effin bolt ) the tube.
Why not just fit the oil pan through the big hole in the gasket?
Old 03-04-2007, 02:37 PM
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alex70
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NJ - it that a real short wheel version of the 928? neato.

On the pan gasket seperation, can we utilize the a similar method as surgeon's for tendon repair, split, cut, interwoven, and obviously not stitched. Simplicstically, you know kind of like 2 L's placed together to accomodate for the pressure on mounting and still maintain a good seal?
Old 03-04-2007, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by heinrich
Why not just fit the oil pan through the big hole in the gasket?
Now there's an idea -- Should definitely work with a RealGasket, though doing it with a cork gasket might be a bit more challenging. Too easy to break at one of the bolt holes...
Old 03-04-2007, 03:33 PM
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There is no need to cut the gasket as there is no need for a cork gasket anymore.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/237875-first-928-oil-pan-sealed-with-gasket-from-realgasket.html

Pan can stay below the motor with the snorkel attached, easy enough...
Old 03-04-2007, 04:15 PM
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Garth S
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Originally Posted by heinrich
Why not just fit the oil pan through the big hole in the gasket?
The top of my X-member was not surgically clean .... so I would hesitate to drag a gasket through there; however, it is a good idea!
Old 03-04-2007, 06:17 PM
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One's member must be kept clean.


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