checkmate1996

Ok, I've bought the stud bolt kit from Carl but they are on backorder for an indefinate amount time at this point. So should I wait? Should I use the original bolts?

I did buy the REALGASKET. I only wanted to do this job once. I know some of you have used both solutions. Pros / Cons? How is the engine doing after x amount of time?? I think this thread may be valuable for others too looking into this...

Appreciate the feedback...

ROG100

I now have a number of cars with the Real Gasket fitted no leaks no problems.
Plenty of customers with the same results to date.

I use the original bolts no spring washers and torque them to 20 ft lbs and use blue loctite.
Re checked after about 8 months and still solid. No leaks and very clean.

Hope that helps.

borland

Roger means 20 in-lbs. No way those bolts would take that many ft-lbs.

I'd use standard metric spring washers, they should be fully compressed with 20 in-lbs. The silicone oil pan gasket that 928Specialist sells, comes with spring washers.

checkmate1996

I about flipped my wig when I saw 20 ft lbs...

Rick Carter

Brad,
I bought a set of SS studs off ebay with lock nuts and the opg from 928 Specialists. I also have the GTS baffle, not enough time to report on it. I don't plan on removing the oil pan any time soon but would like a dry sump at some time so I try to plan ahead.

ROG100

What do you mean they will not take 20 ft lbs - have you tried an extra long breaker bar??

Thanks Borland I meant in lbs.

I discarded the spring washers as I do not see they serve any purpose.
The manufacturer does not recommend them and they do not use them on other applications.

Each to there own. All the cars I have done are still tight and leak free. Proofs in the pudding!

Rick Carter

This is the link for the SS stud kit:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSC...em260005144078

borland

Interesting to note.....

If you look at the WSM, Vol I, page 7-2. The diagram clearly shows two washers for each bolt. It's reasonable to assume Piece 12 is a spring washer. This was for Pre 83' cars.

checkmate1996

Rick,

Thanks for the link!!

SharkSkin

Note that Stainless hardware is not as strong as the type of steel used in quality studs. Probably not a big issue now, but if you loctite the studs in(recommended, use "blue") you may run into issues later if/when you try to get the studs back out.

Too bad Carl is having trouble keeping these in stock(I assume you've talked to him about that) -- I used the stud kit from him and was very pleased with the result. The nuts that he provides are "toplock" style and work very well for this application. The resistance they provide is enough to make it easy to snug them up with a gearwrench.

Plain bolts or nuts of the type mentioned in the ebay auction will have you cussing, as they don't provide enough friction to operate the gearwrench ratchet mechanism. This is mostly an issue with the fasteners across the front of the oil pan. BTW, 5 months with RealGasket + Carl's stud kit -- not leaking a drop. No seepage either.

checkmate1996

Dave, interesting footnote there. Yeah, I have talked to Connie and appears that have an overseas source that is behind. So far I've been waiting 4 weeks with no end in site. I just emailed her on Friday late to see if there is an update. Your note about the gearwrench is making me want to wait, but if there is no timeline, SITM is coming up fast and I have other projects I need to get to...

Rick Carter

We had no problem using a gear wrench, if we had we would have finger tightened and then used a wrench. Also the engine was supported and the k member partially dropped allowing pretty good access, a 1/4" swivel worked well. The studs are a little short and were threaded into the block only 4 or 5 threads. I'm not a fastener expert and don't remember much although I worked at a factory making bolts (Amanda Bent Bolt/Midwest Fabricating) and also sold nuts and bolts (Certified Bolt) a long long time ago.

SharkSkin

Rick, you're right... you can put it together OK with any variety of hardware there -- And to be fair, the bolts that I had trouble with were being removed, were very slippery and the old gasket did nothing to help with the ratchet action. I was frequently unable to spin them out by hand, and had to pull in shear against the bolts to get enough friction for the gearwrench to ratchet. I had the swaybar, rack, and crossmember completely removed at the time. It would have been easier putting it back together with clean, dry hardware and the gasket maybe helping a bit with the ratchet action.

Garth S

For the pan bolts that cannot be spun with 1/4" ratchet & socket gear, I have a small collection of 10mm wrenches : the 12pt closed ends will do ~70% of the rest - but for the remainder, the angle on the open end of a MAC is different than a Snap-on, etc ..... so by flipping wrenches, all the bolts can easily be tightened.
Maybe I'll but a ratchet wrench someday ...

ROG100

Next time I do the pan gasket - next week - I am going to drop the alternator and see if that gives me better access to those pesky 4 bolts at the front and cut the time down by about 1 hour.
Less than 10 mins for all the rest and 1 hour for those 4.
Garth,
I think I will also make a trip to Sears and buy a better arsenal of weapons as well (10mm kind of course)