checkmate1996

WOW! I feel like I just graduated to the 400 level course!!

ROG100

Larry,
I hear what you say, however I have a bias towards Porsche Engineering rather than Ford.
Porsche did not use spring washers so I do not.
If it ain't broke why fix it - the bolts and washers that is.
We fixed the gasket problem.
Roger

ROG100

BTW there is a difference between the split lock washer and the spring washer.

Larry Velk

I'm not saying he was Ford engineering - it was the race team he worked for. He doesn't like the washers (spring or split) and I don't much like them either. Both the spring and split are supposed to put an axial load on the nut/bolt system, so in that sense they are the same. Part of the issue is the diff. between tension loaded and shear loaded bolts. A pan gasket bolt is almost another type as it has a tension load, but not much. As such it doesn't quite fit the normal fastener profile. I think (and I'm sure not Porsche) this application begs for "locktite" since if the gasket shrinks what little tension once existed will be gone. A 'nylock', 'jet', or distorted nut will also not back off.

SharkSkin

Rog, the "general" spec for 6mm is 6+1 nm, or ~60 in-lbs. I can't find the exact spec for the cork oil pan gasket at the moment, but I was stating what worked for me. I'm very confident that the info that I passed to Brad will work for him, as it worked for me and we are using the same aftermarket parts.

Brad, It's up to you -- As I said, Carl reports good results at that torque. I've had good results at 30 in/lbs. Since we are not using the Porsche spec gasket or hardware, the Porsche torque spec might not be the most appropriate. We are working well below the max torque for the fasteners, as we should -- don't want to warp the pan! I think you'll be fine anywhere between 25-30, but that's just an opinion -- I am not a Porsche engineer or professional mechanic, just a guy who's been wrenching on my own stuff for 30+ years! Yes, the info I gave you may not be precise to the nth degree in this case -- but my experience is that there are no problems torquing to 30 in-lbs.

ROG100

Dave,
I thought it was less than that for the cork gasket.
Like you I saw the 60 in lb for the generic 6mm in the tech spec book.
I am probably wrong as I have never done a cork gasket.

Maybe I will talk again with the silicone manufactures about the torque for there gasket.

SharkSkin

I'd be interested to hear what you find out, Roger. My motto is:

Use Porsche spec or better

checkmate1996

This is great info. I appreciate the posts!

borland

Here are some excerpts from my e-mail correspondence with Harold Carter, Real Gaskets...

"Suggested torque on these gaskets are 15 to 25 inch pounds. If you are
unable to use a torque wrench, tighten the gasket lightly. If you see it
begin to pooch, back off. It does not take much to tighten for a good seal.
Install the gasket DRY, NO SEALANT."


"As far as compressibility data is concerned, I told you I suggest a torque
setting of 15 to 25 inch pounds. If you need to know what this product is
made from, it is AMS3304 silicone with a durometer of 70. I have sold many
of these gaskets all over the world for the past three years and have had no
installation problems to date. I feel certain you can do so also. That is
the best I can do at the moment."

checkmate1996

Sounds pretty definitive to me...thanks borland!

SharkSkin

Ah, that sounds like the recommendation I had heard that backed up what Carl had said. I made my own choice to add the 6 in/lbs running torque to arrive at the intended clamping force.