AO

I'm still replacing it for peace of mind...

FlyingDog

Good idea.

BC

Its still a very stupid design for a fuel line... I am replacing all that with -8 line.

AO

Damn! What a slippery slope! Since I'm waiting on a replacement fuel line from Germany, I decided to go ahead and get my cam covers off and get them p-coated by Jesse (see sticky at top).

Tonight I got the pass-side cover off.

Q for the group... how do I remove the breather tubes? Or do I?

Pics below.

Imo000

Fold the retaining tab back (look at pics#3, the tab is at the 5:30 position) and spin the nuts off. It will be a little more challanging for the one with the plastic tube. OR you can leave them on.

AO

Thanks Imo... didn't want to break anything... yet!

Scott M.

Andrew;

I used a Ford antenna nut socket from Snap-On to remove/install the nut. Or you can take an old socket and grind some teeth onto the end.

Tony

Find a thin blade screw driver and bend the tabs back.
On the one with out the breather i took a wider blade srewdriver placed it in slot and wacked it with a hammer to break it loose. Came off pretty easy after that.

For the one in the breather, get the tab bent back then find a pair of LONG needle nose pliers. Place each tip of the plier in a slot and turn..while squeezing hard to keep the tips in the slots.


or as Scot says modify a socket with a die grinder!(pic below of one of my special porsche tools. I think this is the one I used. Same idea nonetheless)

..oh yeah...And watch out for the fleshy peice of skin between your thumb and pointer finger..it pinches nicely when the pliers slip

When you install them..place a thin film/bead of right stuff around the seats so they wont leak after your all done.

BrianG

After folding back the locking washer tab(s) I use a very long flat blade screw driver. Fit the edge of the blade against one of the "ears" of the "nut" down in the tube so that when you tap the shaft of the screw driver the blade drives the nut CCW. If you use gentle taps against the shaft immediately above the tube, and hold the screw driver handle WAY up at the top, most of the force of the "taps" will be conducted to the nut, due to the lever-arm of the LONG screwdriver.

This can be used in reverse to tighten.

Be gentle but firm.....

atb

Andrew, make sure you replace the O-ring if you remove the breathers. The ones on the breathers (if they don't explode into brittle shards upon pulling the breathers out) will look like hard plastic, almost zip-tie like in consistency. Your new ones will be fat, supple, soft, and rubbery. You will be treated to a nice 20w-50 shower if you pull out the breathers and don't do this.

AO

Thanks for the tips boys. I have new seals waiting to go in. Tonight I hope to get the driver side off. Will report when I do. Then I'll pull the breather ports.

FlyingDog

Is it going to be reassembled for SITM or will you still be disassembling in June?

AO

If you were doing the work... next year. But since I'm doing it, I expect to have everything back together by March-ish.

Bill Ball

With Andy's manifold design, the injector rails are moved 3/4" inward. I don't know if DR followed that design feature. It does put the injectors more towards the center of the intake ports rather than the outside wall. BUT a complication of this is that that fuel line loop in the rear that you are replacing can be kinked. Mine developed a definite fold, not only in the cover but in the core stiff-walled tube. Mine was original to the car, so it was due for replacement anyway, although the issue was not raised during installation and I only noticed the kink months later. The new hose seems more flexible and tolerates the squeeze on the loop without kinking. This feature of Andy's design did require shortening of the front fuel crossover hose at installation in order for it to fit.

FlyingDog

That's funny... I'll be able to drive my car this week. Whether or not something else will break between now and June is another story...