Super charger had to come off...
#92
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by Tony
If i knew how to weld aluminum..or weld in general i would make you one..actually a bunch. IMHO..You need some sort of baffle/seperation below that plate Andrew and a min of 1" dia pipe/tube volume leaving it.... It will only help. Its doesnt have to be aluminum ya know.
I'd concur with Tony. You may be able to use what Dave has, but need something under it to protect the breather opening from direct oil thrown from the crank. Also make the breather line larger. It's a nice piece so would be a shame to not use what you can from it.
#93
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A view window in the breather hose would help answer that
Last edited by Flott Leben; 01-18-2007 at 02:51 PM.
#94
Under the Lift
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Originally Posted by Flott Leben
If someone wants to install some clear PVC hose on that line, I'd be really interested to see what the ar/oil flow out of the crankcase and into the seperator looks like with various setups. Just thinking out loud . . .
Last edited by Bill Ball; 01-18-2007 at 05:12 PM.
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Yeah, but getting a nice view of that hose at 160+ MPH might requires something additional.
Either that or take it to a dyno.
#97
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Originally Posted by Flott Leben
All it would requre is removal of the hood and strapping your best friend onto the engine so that he/she can get a bird's eye view of the tube in action..
...or Hacker.
#99
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Yeah, but getting a nice view of that hose at 160+ MPH might requires something additional.
#101
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Yeah, that's what I was thinking, but Brian's idea of just leaving the hose and hood off would be easier.
#102
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I did a test like that when dealing with my breather issues.
I simply ran the car to really high rpms, with the breather hose disconnected.
Just disconnect the line coming off your filler cap, and attach a short tube to
the fitting, and watch what comes out...
At lower, normal RPMs, it was just vapor. But when I really got on the power, and let the RPMs rise really high, that's when oil mist and oil would get ejected. So it's actually a pretty simple test to see how much oil and vapor are coming out of your crankcase. And easy to test any new system you may come up with... prior to hooking it up to a catch can, or to the air intake, or exhaust, etc... Once you get it working well enough that all you are getting is vapor, then you can be pretty safe with venting it back into the air cleaner, etc... But one thing I did notice, is that if you hook that vent tube back into the intake manifold, where there is a vaccuum, that suction will suck oil out of the crankcase. So it's much better to vent it to one of the air intake tubes, or back to the air cleaner. On my euro, the stock setup was vented right back into the intake manifold, which was guaranteed to suck oil... Just getting it away from that suction was a big help in eliminating blowby getting into the engine.
I simply ran the car to really high rpms, with the breather hose disconnected.
Just disconnect the line coming off your filler cap, and attach a short tube to
the fitting, and watch what comes out...
At lower, normal RPMs, it was just vapor. But when I really got on the power, and let the RPMs rise really high, that's when oil mist and oil would get ejected. So it's actually a pretty simple test to see how much oil and vapor are coming out of your crankcase. And easy to test any new system you may come up with... prior to hooking it up to a catch can, or to the air intake, or exhaust, etc... Once you get it working well enough that all you are getting is vapor, then you can be pretty safe with venting it back into the air cleaner, etc... But one thing I did notice, is that if you hook that vent tube back into the intake manifold, where there is a vaccuum, that suction will suck oil out of the crankcase. So it's much better to vent it to one of the air intake tubes, or back to the air cleaner. On my euro, the stock setup was vented right back into the intake manifold, which was guaranteed to suck oil... Just getting it away from that suction was a big help in eliminating blowby getting into the engine.
#103
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Getting back on topic...
I wanted to replace the crank position sensor/impulse sender as the connector had literally crumbled in our hands last summer and was being held together with duct tape.
As I was trying to get at it, I had to disconnect the "U" fuel line at the rear of the engine. I thought we had inspected this last summer, but apparently not. THe car could have gone up in flames at any moment!
Potential disaster averted!
I wanted to replace the crank position sensor/impulse sender as the connector had literally crumbled in our hands last summer and was being held together with duct tape.
As I was trying to get at it, I had to disconnect the "U" fuel line at the rear of the engine. I thought we had inspected this last summer, but apparently not. THe car could have gone up in flames at any moment!
Potential disaster averted!
#105
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Andrew,
It's not even remotely as bad as it looks. I cut one apart during the SC install and was very suprised what I saw. What you see is the plastic core of the fuel line. These Porsche fuel lines are not like the other regular ones found on other cars. These have a plastic tube core and even in the rubber cracks the structural member is the plastic tube not the rubber. The problem is if the rubber breaks where the crimping is. In that case it would reduce the crimping pressure on the hose and it can slip off the fitting.
It's not even remotely as bad as it looks. I cut one apart during the SC install and was very suprised what I saw. What you see is the plastic core of the fuel line. These Porsche fuel lines are not like the other regular ones found on other cars. These have a plastic tube core and even in the rubber cracks the structural member is the plastic tube not the rubber. The problem is if the rubber breaks where the crimping is. In that case it would reduce the crimping pressure on the hose and it can slip off the fitting.