Shop Hrs Required for Shock replacement
#1
Racer
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Shop Hrs Required for Shock replacement
I already feel guilty about not doing this myself, I'd love to save the money
and learn the process but I have my reasons.
I'm replacing all 4 shocks to Konis and the upper A-arm bushings while at it.
I have a shop recommended by a mechanic friend, it's your standard
Used Europen car dealer/shop. Should I not even consider this and strictly
leave the job to my 928 guy? He's 3 hrs away and my car is not registered
or insured right now otherwise I would.
This is only Labor (I hope) so what is a reasonable estimate?
and learn the process but I have my reasons.
I'm replacing all 4 shocks to Konis and the upper A-arm bushings while at it.
I have a shop recommended by a mechanic friend, it's your standard
Used Europen car dealer/shop. Should I not even consider this and strictly
leave the job to my 928 guy? He's 3 hrs away and my car is not registered
or insured right now otherwise I would.
This is only Labor (I hope) so what is a reasonable estimate?
#2
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If they go by "book time" it is nearly 10 hours for the shocks probably another couple hours to R and R the A -arms install press bushings... plus alignment . It is very important that they correctly set the ride height (after settling the suspension by driving ) and ideally corner balance as well.
#3
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I am showing 7.8 w/o alingment for front and rear on a us 86 928s
Most shops will just use this as a guide, so I bet it will be close to what Jim says of about 10 hours.
Most shops will just use this as a guide, so I bet it will be close to what Jim says of about 10 hours.
#4
Three Wheelin'
If somebody screws up your alignment, to buy new tires to replace the ones that will be ruined in a few hundred miles is the equivalent of several hours labor, so factor that into your decision. Either way, you're going to pay, so better to take your medicine up front and have the job done by someone who you know is competent, even if it's more of an immediate hassle.
#5
Racer
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Thanks,
I can set the ride height myself after and I need an alignment anyway. I've read up on
all the tips on both of those.
I've read the threads on replacing shocks does anyone have any other "while at its" for a shock
job?
1986.0
I can set the ride height myself after and I need an alignment anyway. I've read up on
all the tips on both of those.
I've read the threads on replacing shocks does anyone have any other "while at its" for a shock
job?
1986.0
#6
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Rich,
I've never done the shocks, but if I were going in there, I'd probably go further than just the upper A-arm bushings. You might want to do the whole shebang and get all the bushings you need for the suspension, since it will be unloaded. How about your tie rods and boots, are they OK? How about your ball joints?
I've never done the shocks, but if I were going in there, I'd probably go further than just the upper A-arm bushings. You might want to do the whole shebang and get all the bushings you need for the suspension, since it will be unloaded. How about your tie rods and boots, are they OK? How about your ball joints?
#7
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Mike, Tie rods look OK, Lower ball joints were replaced last year and upper ball joint boots
were done too.
I've looked her over pretty well to try and see anything that looked obviously worn out.
were done too.
I've looked her over pretty well to try and see anything that looked obviously worn out.
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#8
I did the R&R myself- with the exception of actually mounting the new springs to the shocks. A shop charged me $65. for that- since I didn't have spring compressors.I disconnected the lower A -Arms, Pushed the whole assembly as high as it would go, then eased the shocks through the botton. No Biggie- Rears were pretty straightforward.Took me about1.5 Hr. per wheel.
#9
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Thanks but my A-Arm bushings are toast so I've really got to do them. From other posts
it sounds like pre-86.5 don't have the option of passing the assy through the arm. Another
reason I wish I found an 86.5!
I think I'm going to see if the Mechanic will just pull the Upper A-Arms for me and I'll
replace the bushings myself. From the 928motorsports write up it doesn't look too difficult.
it sounds like pre-86.5 don't have the option of passing the assy through the arm. Another
reason I wish I found an 86.5!
I think I'm going to see if the Mechanic will just pull the Upper A-Arms for me and I'll
replace the bushings myself. From the 928motorsports write up it doesn't look too difficult.
#10
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I did it myself replacing both the springs and shocks; you need the right tools for compressing the springs and realigning the rear arms. If you plan on this route give yourself one day for disassembly, reassemble the shocks/springs. and clean. The next morning for refitting the coilovers, the lower A arms, brakes etc. WYAI, do the brakes, you have the calipers and rotors off anyway.
#11
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Getting the upper AA out is easy on the passenger (US) side. The bolt heads (er, actually the nuts) are readily accessible to an offset wrench, augmented by something to act as a breaker extension. The driver side requires removal of a few accessory items to gain access and can present a puzzle the first time.
The book rate of 7.8 hours for shocks sounds about right if you have a commercial shock/spring compressor. I've done it with lesser tools and a bit more time. If you are just going to be changing out the coilovers and leaving the coilover disassembly and shock change itself to someone else, it's only an hour or so per wheel once you get the drill down, particularly learning the easiest way to lever the lower shock mount bolts back into place.
The book rate of 7.8 hours for shocks sounds about right if you have a commercial shock/spring compressor. I've done it with lesser tools and a bit more time. If you are just going to be changing out the coilovers and leaving the coilover disassembly and shock change itself to someone else, it's only an hour or so per wheel once you get the drill down, particularly learning the easiest way to lever the lower shock mount bolts back into place.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 01-05-2007 at 05:24 PM.
#12
Nordschleife Master
My biggest concern is that when you have a "good" mechanic instead of a 928 guy they do what you tell them and don't see the WYIT stuff a 928 guy might. A small shop is NOT going to want your car left on the lift while you do some of the work yourself.
With a 3 hr drive I would just make sure I had all the possible parts needed, print out any relevant WSM pages, talk with the local guy directly and let him do it if the warm fuzzy feeling was present. I would plan on having your real 928 guy look it over first chance though.
BTW no harm at all in converting a local mechanic to a 928 owner either. As pointed out many times they are incredible cars for people who can do their own PM.
With a 3 hr drive I would just make sure I had all the possible parts needed, print out any relevant WSM pages, talk with the local guy directly and let him do it if the warm fuzzy feeling was present. I would plan on having your real 928 guy look it over first chance though.
BTW no harm at all in converting a local mechanic to a 928 owner either. As pointed out many times they are incredible cars for people who can do their own PM.
#13
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I have an early '86. You can remove the fender liner (very easy) and take the shock out the top. I did it both ways and out the top is way easier. The 'unthreading' works on an 86.0 also, but it was tight.
Last edited by Larry Velk; 01-05-2007 at 05:08 PM. Reason: show signature
#15
Race Car
Rent spring compressor
Auto zone rents for free you pay for it then you take them back and they refund your money! But be very carefull with the compressor. I use air tools to bring up each side a little at a time.