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Shop Hrs Required for Shock replacement

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Old 01-09-2007, 02:11 AM
  #31  
Bill Ball
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Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
Do you have to align the car after 4-shock replacment?
If the ride height is the same after as before, the answer is no for the rear but yes for the front. The front toe can be affected by unbolting and rebolting the lower A-arm. Even though the A-arms go into locator pins, there is enough play that it can end up off from the previous position. I didn't think this was so, but after a shock change, my steering wheel ended up cocked to one side 5-10 degrees, good evidence the toe had changed, one one side more than the other. Even if the steering wheel ends up straight as before, the toe could be off equally on both sides. I guess this could affect camber as well. I'm not sure how you could assure they go back exactly as before.

Perhaps removing the balljoint instead would allow that end of the A-arm to swing down, leaving the main bolts alone, preserving alignment in the front. I haven't tried it that way. I'm not sure if it would work.

Last edited by Bill Ball; 01-09-2007 at 02:26 AM.
Old 01-09-2007, 02:18 AM
  #32  
Bill Ball
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Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
Is there a way to get the front end off the ground to place the car on stands. The rear is no problem but I can't find a way to place the jacks and lift at the same time.
The "skidplates" under the front of the A-arms are a strong point where you could jack up the car....if you could find a jack that is low enough. I jack at the standard jackpoint and put jackstands under the skidplate. I think some don't like that idea, but a jackstand with a saddle that fits the skidplate contour where it bolts to the A-arm seems secure to me.
Old 01-09-2007, 02:20 AM
  #33  
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Justin replaced the front springs on his car in just over 1 1/2 hours (One side was 34 minutes and the other side just took longer) I know because my wife was waiting for me to take her out for diner that night. Just rent the spring compressors from Autozone or O'reilly and then return them and it's free.
Old 01-14-2007, 02:33 AM
  #34  
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Well, I started to swap out my fronts today. Justin must be a speed demon and have 4 arms. I tried the upper balljoint idea. That didn't allow the lower A-arm to swing down enough for the shock to get out, so I went back to removing the lower A-arm from the chassis. Everything then went OK, except I had a bit of trouble getting the lower shock bolt lined up. This is the third swap I have done, but for some reason it was the hardest. Took me over 2 hours for one side. Arghh.
Old 01-14-2007, 02:35 AM
  #35  
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How's tthe ride and what did you install ?
Old 01-14-2007, 02:37 AM
  #36  
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Heh, I only finished one side...too many other things to do. I'll let you know tomorrow after I finish the other side.
Old 01-14-2007, 01:46 PM
  #37  
RichS 1986928
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Got the rear Konis on yesterday.... Dam the old assembly was filthy! It
took over an hour to clean each one! Real pain, not to mention the nausea
from all the mineral spirts I needed to clean them. I tried some other engine
degreaser but that didn't work well. They came out really sweet though.
The old Boges were definitely toast, no question compared to the new Konis. I
used the JB weld trick to hold the adjuster sleeve on, hope it works. Thanks
for your help Bill, removing the rear pivots forward was definitely the way to go.

2 Points to re-mention: The adjuster rings are press fit on the Boges, so they
can be removed with some penetrating oil followed by banging them off with
a piece of wood.
The adjuster will not come completely off the Boge without removing the lip
of the washer at the bottom. I used an angle grinder for this. It might be
possible to just bang these off first, I didn't try that.

I'm really glad I'm doing this myself, No mechanic would EVER clean this stuff
as well as I'd like it...or at all.

Next weekend I'm going to try the fronts. It doesn't sound like too many people
are doing their upper A-arm bushings. I'm pretty sure mine need it, one in
particular looks wasted. I have a vibration at 80mph It better be gone after
these Shocks, tires/wheels and alignment are done. FYI : 126,000 miles

I'm headed out to buy some tools, can anyone recommend the best thing to
reach the A-Arm bolts? Or make this job easier?
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Old 01-15-2007, 12:26 AM
  #38  
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OK, got the other front side on, with used Boge reds and my original spoirt springs. Had less of a fight with the lower shock bolt, but there must be a trick that makes it easy. I was still a bit of a struggle.

Fender test seemed to show that the used Boge's were maybe more used than I thougtht. Push down, comes up and goes back down a bit. I was hoping it would just come back up and stop. Ugh. BUT on the road, the car is far more livable than the Bilstein-Eibachs, which are still on the rear. Not a full test yet.



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