SharkSkin

Ken, if he had the early wiring scheme, having the contacts soldered closed would result in having only one blower speed at this time -- full. Moving pin 8 as you did in the thread you linked *should* disable all fan speeds except max on Bill's wiring. That would seem to be a harmless way to double-check.

Bill Ball

Well, the new pack arrived. It is identical to the early PN pack I have, although shinier. Now, my car is an 89, so it should have the late PN pack, so I am going to write-off the discrepancy as an incorrect PN sticker placed on my old part. Hard to explain any other way. I work with new product development, and we assign a PN to new parts as a step in the process. Occasionally, things like this happen.

The new one works perfectly. Wiring left untouched. Took all of 5 minutes using a large sheetmetal screw into spare hole in the base with a string tied to it. THANKS AGAIN TO ROGER shipping me the new resistor pack 2-day.

SharkSkin

Identical, as in pin 8 & 6 not shorted when cold, as yours was before you soldered it?

Bill Ball

Dave: I didn't check. I will pull the plug and check it in the morning.

In the PET there are only 2 PN and the early one goes all the way back to 78. It is described as having a fiber rather than metal cover in the tech service info. If you look at type A (early) in the page from the tech service info above, two of the coils are smaller and there in no points type contact in the center. So, unless there is a third type of pack, I have the late one for 89-95.

IcemanG17

Bill
Right on! Everything works fine......the old resistor sure looked worn....but I guess 17 years & 170K+ miles will do that!

Bill Ball

Yeah, Brian, the new one is much shinier and should help me in the concours points too.

RyanPerrella

Bill,

Did you try and reinstall the old one once you cleaned it? I agree with you just replacing it. Thats the best way to go but i am curious if the cleaning worked at all?

Nicole

I took a look at this on my car today, and am surprised that ANYONE can get that resistor pack out through the gap between blower and heater box. Even though my hands and arms are not exactly big, but I could not get in there very far.

I figured out how to attach a string to the resistor pack, and loosening the screws would be easy, but directing it out through that gap between blower and heater box seems to require trickery that I have neither understood nor mastered.

How do you guys do that???


PS: Here is another thread I looked at: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...stor-pack.html

Ron_H

Nicole, I have done it that way. Mine needs to come out and be 'adjusted" because it keeps turning on the blower for no reason and I have a spare. Maybe some day we can do both of ours. Not a big job, but have lots of band aids handy for scratched hands and fingers.

Nicole

Ron: I just got things to work again by just cleaning the contacts. But since I already have the new resistor pack, I might as well install it some time.

Next wrenching party?

Ron_H

I took an electric eraser to my contacts but then put the installation off and they probably have corroded again. Yes, I need to host a wrenching party and have two stalls in my garage if I push out the 914/6. I have a list a mile long for my beast, so maybe such a simple job could be better accomplished at your place or somewhere else. Not too long from now I plan to tear out my dash and replace my heater core (your heater core actually) so maybe we could do that at my place and do our switches then. I'll have plenty of access for mine as I dropped a 10mm wrench into the blower housing the last time I tightened the mounting screws on that bad boy blower, and the wrench keeps rattling so I will take it all out and have lots of room to reach in to remove the switch. Every so many decades I need to tear my car apart totally and the time is approaching, thanks to WaSaabi's presence. Oops! Jane just spoke up. Gotta go!!

SharkSkin

It's pretty easy to take it out that way. You just have to move the rubber boot out of the way a bit, and thread a coathanger in there. Attach the coathanger to the resistor pack along with your piece of string, use the coathanger to pull the R-pack out along with the string. Assembly, as they say in the WSM, is the reverse of disassembly. Actually you don't need the coathanger, just pull the R-pack back into place with the string. Thread one of the mounting screws in and tie the string to that; it's easier to get the string off and the pack mounted that way.

Don Carter

Nicole,

What are your symptoms? I had a similar problem and everyone said it was resistor pack, so I replaced it. Didn't help at all. My blower would only blow on low no matter what speed it was set at, except defrost blew very high. Turned out to be the top pin on the plug just to the side of the fan speed switch. It had heated up, melted the surrounding plastic slightly and lost contact. The plug was hard to remove because the plastic had actually fused together. Just cleaned it up and all was good.

dr bob

I posted my no-hands method in post 18 here: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...stor-pack.html It takes a pick-up tool that should be in your toolbox already, and a locking forceps/hemostat as a fourth hand on installation. No band-aids, no scraped knuckles, no arms in the duct at all. Less than ten mins start to finish, with no bad words unless you drop one of the screws into the abyss.

Randy V

You been takin' lessons from Bigs, Bob?