Crank Bolt - The Easy Way
#31
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by marton
What is the string poking out of the RHS Cam Gear?
Do you think the belt is running too far back?
Where do I find the timing marks???
Do you think the belt is running too far back?
Where do I find the timing marks???
The belt does look to be running pretty far back, which may explain the string, if it is a piece of shredded timing belt. This means that you should probably check your belt alignment pieces. Maybe someone else can say what all to check because the only ones I can think of are in the tensioner arm (the idler bolt - make sure it's straight), and the tensioner roller - make sure it's aligned.
Timing marks are on the damper on the crank pulley (the red disk). You may need to turn the engine clockwise to get around to the them.
Also, check your gears. The cam gears look pretty shiny in the picture.
You've gotten pretty far in three hours. Farther than I did in the first three hours, that's for sure.
Matt
#32
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Doing stuff like this is why emergency rooms stay open 24 hours a day. Using an basically uncontolled force to accomplish a task is a sucker's bet. Try and remember this and you won't need to visit one of the emergency room for being stupid:
Use the proper tools or don't do it at all.
greg brown
Use the proper tools or don't do it at all.
greg brown
#33
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Brendan:
Is that the 86? Jeez! H'man and I did the TB/WP. I didn't think we were that strong.
Is that the 86? Jeez! H'man and I did the TB/WP. I didn't think we were that strong.
I remembered that you guys had done the belt, etc. You took the bolt off right? I mean, you'd have to unless....
#36
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Originally Posted by heinrich
Brendan/Bill, there is no reason for that. In other words, I think Brendan you must have pissed the 928 gods off somewhere ....
It was the car. It new I was disassembling it again. It thought it had moved to second in line, but its still first.
#37
Drifting
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Hi Matt
Thanks for the support. Actually i am a pretty useless home mechanic; things that take people 30 minutes usually take me at least half a day.
There are some significant things I did not do yet;
Issues so far are I can not undo the Dipstick guide; the nut is really
tight. Do I rally need to remove this?
The oil pipe that runs down to the sump over the RHS timing
cover; I mean RHS as standing at the front of the car and looking at the
engine. Must I remove all of this including the part bolted to the sump or
just the rubber part? I could not find this pipe mentioned in any TB
write-ups.
I did not drain the block because I did not have a
big enough container for all the coolant; I thought I did but now can not
find it!
Did not yet remove the spark plugs to make rotating the engine easier.
I have yet to buy the big socket for the Crank nut undo.
I already had 2 TBs installed by "proper" mechanics; the first only for one month because I did not know about changing the WP at the same time (also my mechanic did not know) and the WP failed after 1 month.
Now I am retired I thought that I would do this TB myself since I have plenty of free time.......
No, it is not wire; definitely string.
Hi Heinrich
Guess you are correct. I started this because my WP is not circulating coolant anymore. Did nor get down to this part yet.
It is only about 35,000 miles since the last TB change...
Must be another problem that I need to find and fix that is fuc....; I mean damaging the TB.
I have appointments all day tomorrow; hope to get back to this on Friday
Ciao
Marton
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You've gotten pretty far in three hours.
There are some significant things I did not do yet;
Issues so far are I can not undo the Dipstick guide; the nut is really
tight. Do I rally need to remove this?
The oil pipe that runs down to the sump over the RHS timing
cover; I mean RHS as standing at the front of the car and looking at the
engine. Must I remove all of this including the part bolted to the sump or
just the rubber part? I could not find this pipe mentioned in any TB
write-ups.
I did not drain the block because I did not have a
big enough container for all the coolant; I thought I did but now can not
find it!
Did not yet remove the spark plugs to make rotating the engine easier.
I have yet to buy the big socket for the Crank nut undo.
I already had 2 TBs installed by "proper" mechanics; the first only for one month because I did not know about changing the WP at the same time (also my mechanic did not know) and the WP failed after 1 month.
Now I am retired I thought that I would do this TB myself since I have plenty of free time.......
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I will agree and say piece of timing belt. As long as it's not a wire.
Hi Heinrich
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Marton your tbelt is about to be eaten, I give it less than 500 miles and you will have tbelt failure.
It is only about 35,000 miles since the last TB change...
Must be another problem that I need to find and fix that is fuc....; I mean damaging the TB.
I have appointments all day tomorrow; hope to get back to this on Friday
Ciao
Marton
#38
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by marton
The oil pipe that runs down to the sump over the RHS timing cover; I mean RHS as standing at the front of the car and looking at the engine.
I did not drain the block because I did not have a big enough container for all the coolant; I thought I did but now can not find it!
Did not yet remove the spark plugs to make rotating the engine easier.
I have yet to buy the big socket for the Crank nut undo.
I did not drain the block because I did not have a big enough container for all the coolant; I thought I did but now can not find it!
Did not yet remove the spark plugs to make rotating the engine easier.
I have yet to buy the big socket for the Crank nut undo.
Coolant: It sounds like you're in no hurry. Can you dispose of what you've drained and then drain the block? You will probably get some dumped out when you remove the WP as is. When was the coolant last changed? If not too long, then it probably still has life and it's okay. Still, I would either buy another pan or a larger one, like 20L. That's what I did since all I had was an 8L oil pan.
You don't need to remove the plugs, but be prepared for a good workout. You are going to need to turn the crank three times, about and with the plugs in it's a real bear.
You may want to start a new thread with these questions in it to get the attention of the people who know what they're doing.
Matt
#39
Drifting
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Hi Matt
May 2006
here in switzerland you have to handover the drained coolant to the "dangerous materials" collectors who come around once a year...
if I run into major problems then that would be a good idea; at the moment these are just "average" challenges.
sorry, should have written that mine is an 82
Ciao
Marton
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When was the coolant last changed?
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Can you dispose of what you've drained
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You may want to start a new thread with these questions in it
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Hopefully, someone with a later model can identify the oil pipe
Ciao
Marton
#40
Rennlist Member
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You can filter the coolant thru a filter, even a coffee maker filter will work, and re-use it. Better than saving it for the Haz-mat guy for a year.
The cam gears definatly look worn. Lay a straight edge over each tooth and measure the gap. Anything more than a 0.10-0.15mm (0.005") I would consider excessive and change the gears.
The belt is shot from rubbing against something on the rear edge. Usually caused by a bent idler/tensioner pulley bolt. Get a new one or the next belt will last the same short time period. It could also be nothing more than the plastic bushing for the tensioner, but make sure it is running with the belt centered on the width of the cam gears. If the water pump quit turning it could be that pulley???
Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd
The cam gears definatly look worn. Lay a straight edge over each tooth and measure the gap. Anything more than a 0.10-0.15mm (0.005") I would consider excessive and change the gears.
The belt is shot from rubbing against something on the rear edge. Usually caused by a bent idler/tensioner pulley bolt. Get a new one or the next belt will last the same short time period. It could also be nothing more than the plastic bushing for the tensioner, but make sure it is running with the belt centered on the width of the cam gears. If the water pump quit turning it could be that pulley???
Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd
#42
Under the Lift
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Originally Posted by BrendanC
I couldn't understand it at all. What did you guys put that thing on with? Its still sitting there, in the garage, mocking me, attached, as I mentioned, to the crank still.
I remembered that you guys had done the belt, etc. You took the bolt off right? I mean, you'd have to unless....
I remembered that you guys had done the belt, etc. You took the bolt off right? I mean, you'd have to unless....
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#43
Drifting
Thread Starter
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I´ve just tried this method again and had it fail.
No damage was caused, other than to the cheap old torque wrench, but it was very annoying indeed because it stopped the belt change from happening.
Last time the crank bolt on this car was touched was probably 2001, and if some of the other bolts on this car are a guide, it was overtightened.
No damage was caused, other than to the cheap old torque wrench, but it was very annoying indeed because it stopped the belt change from happening.
Last time the crank bolt on this car was touched was probably 2001, and if some of the other bolts on this car are a guide, it was overtightened.
#44
Race Car
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I used a 3/4 socket wrench 27 MM socket and took off the jack handles off of my floor jack. Placed it over the wrench pull it it cam off fine. Now I;I am wondering how to tightnen it up to the correct specs.
#45
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Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
I used a 3/4 socket wrench 27 MM socket and took off the jack handles off of my floor jack. Placed it over the wrench pull it it cam off fine. Now I;I am wondering how to tightnen it up to the correct specs.
With a Torque Wrench. Not an optional item for this procedure.