leperboy

Don't know about the string, but I will agree and say piece of timing belt. As long as it's not a wire.

The belt does look to be running pretty far back, which may explain the string, if it is a piece of shredded timing belt. This means that you should probably check your belt alignment pieces. Maybe someone else can say what all to check because the only ones I can think of are in the tensioner arm (the idler bolt - make sure it's straight), and the tensioner roller - make sure it's aligned.

Timing marks are on the damper on the crank pulley (the red disk). You may need to turn the engine clockwise to get around to the them.

Also, check your gears. The cam gears look pretty shiny in the picture.

You've gotten pretty far in three hours. Farther than I did in the first three hours, that's for sure.

Matt

BC

I had the proper tools that would usually be used in any garage I Have seen. I broke those. Snap-on is sending a new one.

BC

I couldn't understand it at all. What did you guys put that thing on with? Its still sitting there, in the garage, mocking me, attached, as I mentioned, to the crank still.

I remembered that you guys had done the belt, etc. You took the bolt off right? I mean, you'd have to unless....

heinrich

Marton your tbelt is about to be eaten, I give it less than 500 miles and you will have tbelt failure.

heinrich

Brendan/Bill, there is no reason for that. In other words, I think Brendan you must have pissed the 928 gods off somewhere ....

BC

Gods' honest truth, I have taken them off and on on other cars, and this one just wouldn't move.

It was the car. It new I was disassembling it again. It thought it had moved to second in line, but its still first.

marton

Hi Matt

Thanks for the support. Actually i am a pretty useless home mechanic; things that take people 30 minutes usually take me at least half a day.
There are some significant things I did not do yet;
Issues so far are I can not undo the Dipstick guide; the nut is really
tight. Do I rally need to remove this?


The oil pipe that runs down to the sump over the RHS timing
cover; I mean RHS as standing at the front of the car and looking at the
engine. Must I remove all of this including the part bolted to the sump or
just the rubber part? I could not find this pipe mentioned in any TB
write-ups.

I did not drain the block because I did not have a
big enough container for all the coolant; I thought I did but now can not
find it!

Did not yet remove the spark plugs to make rotating the engine easier.

I have yet to buy the big socket for the Crank nut undo.

I already had 2 TBs installed by "proper" mechanics; the first only for one month because I did not know about changing the WP at the same time (also my mechanic did not know) and the WP failed after 1 month.

Now I am retired I thought that I would do this TB myself since I have plenty of free time.......

No, it is not wire; definitely string.

Hi Heinrich

Guess you are correct. I started this because my WP is not circulating coolant anymore. Did nor get down to this part yet.

It is only about 35,000 miles since the last TB change...
Must be another problem that I need to find and fix that is fuc....; I mean damaging the TB.

I have appointments all day tomorrow; hope to get back to this on Friday

Ciao

Marton

leperboy

Hopefully, someone with a later model can identify the oil pipe. I didn't have to remove any on my 86 so I don't know the answer.

Coolant: It sounds like you're in no hurry. Can you dispose of what you've drained and then drain the block? You will probably get some dumped out when you remove the WP as is. When was the coolant last changed? If not too long, then it probably still has life and it's okay. Still, I would either buy another pan or a larger one, like 20L. That's what I did since all I had was an 8L oil pan.

You don't need to remove the plugs, but be prepared for a good workout. You are going to need to turn the crank three times, about and with the plugs in it's a real bear.

You may want to start a new thread with these questions in it to get the attention of the people who know what they're doing.

Matt

marton

Hi Matt

May 2006

here in switzerland you have to handover the drained coolant to the "dangerous materials" collectors who come around once a year...

if I run into major problems then that would be a good idea; at the moment these are just "average" challenges.

sorry, should have written that mine is an 82

Ciao

Marton

Jim M.

You can filter the coolant thru a filter, even a coffee maker filter will work, and re-use it. Better than saving it for the Haz-mat guy for a year.

The cam gears definatly look worn. Lay a straight edge over each tooth and measure the gap. Anything more than a 0.10-0.15mm (0.005") I would consider excessive and change the gears.

The belt is shot from rubbing against something on the rear edge. Usually caused by a bent idler/tensioner pulley bolt. Get a new one or the next belt will last the same short time period. It could also be nothing more than the plastic bushing for the tensioner, but make sure it is running with the belt centered on the width of the cam gears. If the water pump quit turning it could be that pulley???

Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd

marton

thanks Jim

Bill Ball

I don't remember anything unusual about getting the bolt off. H'man might have red LocTited it when I wasn't looking.

UKKid35

I´ve just tried this method again and had it fail.

No damage was caused, other than to the cheap old torque wrench, but it was very annoying indeed because it stopped the belt change from happening.

Last time the crank bolt on this car was touched was probably 2001, and if some of the other bolts on this car are a guide, it was overtightened.

Tampa 928s

I used a 3/4 socket wrench 27 MM socket and took off the jack handles off of my floor jack. Placed it over the wrench pull it it cam off fine. Now I;I am wondering how to tightnen it up to the correct specs.

JEC_31

With a Torque Wrench. Not an optional item for this procedure.