Bill Ball

I have to look hard to see the wear borland mentions, but when I do, it sure appears he is right. I see the groove edge where the belt wore into the gears. It is more subtle on the crank gear. It may be better seen with different lighting. Anyway, you should be able to see the shiny aluminum where the coating is worn away on the oil pump gear better than it shows in the photos. The crank gear has no coating, but I do see a wear line. Had borland not said they were worn, I'm not sure I would have seen this. Good eyes and more experience helps in this case.

borland

When you add up the replacement costs for these sprockets, you might think about running them further. Here's something to consider...

- The cam and oil pump sprockets are made from a soft material, but with a surfaced hardened treatment applied to the teeth. Once this surface harnening wear through, the wear rate accelerates. The crank sprocket is also likely surface treated.

- As a result of sprocket wear, belt tension loosens.

- Sprocket wears significantly more on top than at other parts of the teeth because its closer to the belts fiber reinforcement.

- Uneven sprocket wear tends to deform the belt causing lateral tracking variance, increased friction, and reduced belt life.

You might want to call 928Intl and see if they currently stock any "used" sprockets. That would save you some money.

oups59

I will remove both the oil pump and crank sprockets this afternoon to take a good look at them.

Bill Ball

You don't really need to remove them to inspect the tooth surfaces. Oh, and the oil pump gear shaft nut is a challenge to loosen once the TB is off unless you have or can make up some kind of gear holder. So, as a matter of routine, if the oil pump gear is suspect, I loosen that nut while the belt is still on.

oups59

I received all the parts today.

Concerning the bolt holding the cam sprocket to the cam. Is 47 ft/lbs or 65 Nm the good torque specs?

And the tensioner bolts should have 20+2 Nm or 15+1 ft/lbs? Right ?

Bill Ball

Yes, those are the right torque values.

the flyin' scotsman

Which parts did you end up buying Luc? Did you get all the gears?

BTW how did those mirror motors work out?

Garth S

Wrap the old TB around the oil pump gear - and any other fixed object: voila - a cheapo strap wrench. Another reason to keep an old spare ....

oups59

Thanks for the quick answer.

Malcolm,

I decided to change both cam sprockets, oil and crank sprockets. Concerning the mirror, I was able to retrieve to small plastic gear on yours and installed it on mine.

Garth,

Nice trick. I will try it.

the flyin' scotsman

Excellent Luc, glad it worked out.

Keep us posted how the rest of your Tbelt work proceeds. Bon chance mon ami.

oups59

Ok. Now the new sprockets are installed. I replaced both the tension roller and the idler. Rebuild the tensioner (new boot and gasket).

Then I installed the new TB and NO the timing marks on right camshaft sprocket is not aligned.

The left side is OK

Is it a easy way to correct this or should I start over again?

the flyin' scotsman

Luc............your off a tooth on that side; slacken the tensioner to get just enough belt slack, with a wrench on the cam in question pull up on the belt and turn the cam (clockwise) to its correct alignment and while keeping the belt taut place it on the sprocket...............retension the belt.......presto.

Bill Ball

What Malcom is describing is getting the belt to skip one tooth . I find I have to "walk" the slack loop up over the teeth. I can't get enough slack to fully release the belt from the teeth, but have to work the loop over the teeth while pulling the gear into the slack with a wrench.

Anyway, I rarely get them exactly right the first time. Someone once decribed how they get it right the first time, but I couldn't follow it.

SharkSkin

Luc, once you get the sprocket lined up, fix the calendar function on your camera, eh!

oups59

Dave,

This is how we display it in here dd-mm-yyyy