Vibration issues - Motor mounts?
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Hi,
After searching through the archives, I think i've diagnosed my next problem. I'm getting a vibration through the car that seems to be coming from the drivetrain. Upon revving the engine, it stays rock solid, and the whole car moves.... Hopefully its the mounts! The torque tube was replaced at a Porsche dealer a little over 2 years ago due to loss of drive, so that *should* still be ok. Ive got no record of the mounts ever being replaced.
I've read about the anchor mounts that everyone seems to be using, and I think i'd like to give those a try, only problem is that i'm in the UK! Does anybody know of an online retailer that stocks the mounts that are willing to ship to England?
Kind Regards,
Ben
After searching through the archives, I think i've diagnosed my next problem. I'm getting a vibration through the car that seems to be coming from the drivetrain. Upon revving the engine, it stays rock solid, and the whole car moves.... Hopefully its the mounts! The torque tube was replaced at a Porsche dealer a little over 2 years ago due to loss of drive, so that *should* still be ok. Ive got no record of the mounts ever being replaced.
I've read about the anchor mounts that everyone seems to be using, and I think i'd like to give those a try, only problem is that i'm in the UK! Does anybody know of an online retailer that stocks the mounts that are willing to ship to England?
Kind Regards,
Ben
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Ben,
Someone on here may be able to bring over a set for you. I am not due over until October, however if you can wait that long no problem.
Just checked postage to the UK and snail surface mail is 5 weeks but would cost about $25. Airmail would be $35/40.
PM me if you want me to get some for you.
Roger
Someone on here may be able to bring over a set for you. I am not due over until October, however if you can wait that long no problem.
Just checked postage to the UK and snail surface mail is 5 weeks but would cost about $25. Airmail would be $35/40.
PM me if you want me to get some for you.
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
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Roger,
Thanks for the very kind offer. I think I may as well pay the 45 odd dollars that rock quotes for EMS. I'd like to do the job sooner rather than later to (hopefully) put my mind at rest, that the vibration isnt the torque tube!
Ben
Thanks for the very kind offer. I think I may as well pay the 45 odd dollars that rock quotes for EMS. I'd like to do the job sooner rather than later to (hopefully) put my mind at rest, that the vibration isnt the torque tube!
Ben
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Hi Ben,
No problem, that sounds very much like MM are your problem.
Don't forget to change the oil pan gasket for the "real" gaket while you are in there.
Get that from 928Specialists.
I used to live in Brent Knoll and Highbridge.
Roger
No problem, that sounds very much like MM are your problem.
Don't forget to change the oil pan gasket for the "real" gaket while you are in there.
Get that from 928Specialists.
I used to live in Brent Knoll and Highbridge.
Roger
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What do people actually mean when they talk about the 'real' gasket on the sump? Was the original gasket that much of a joke?
It is worth springing the extra money for the silicone gasket listed on 928 specialists, or is the standard one sufficient?
Also, when I ordered some service parts from Euro car parts, they asked me if I wanted the air pump filter? Do they mean the filter in the oil filler housing?
I've been past Highbridge and Brent Knoll many a time on the way to Bristol airport.
Ben
It is worth springing the extra money for the silicone gasket listed on 928 specialists, or is the standard one sufficient?
Also, when I ordered some service parts from Euro car parts, they asked me if I wanted the air pump filter? Do they mean the filter in the oil filler housing?
I've been past Highbridge and Brent Knoll many a time on the way to Bristol airport.
Ben
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Ben,
You need to add the MY of your car to your signature. I can tell you about the filter then.
The air pump has a filter on our cars depending on which year as to where it is located.
The "real" gasket is the silicone gasket that 928 Spec sell.
The company who make it is called Real Gasket.
The cork gasket is a joke and the main reason our cars leak so much oil.
While you are doing the MM its a little bit of extra work to drop the pan.
The silicone gasket is leak free. Fit and forget.
Roger
You need to add the MY of your car to your signature. I can tell you about the filter then.
The air pump has a filter on our cars depending on which year as to where it is located.
The "real" gasket is the silicone gasket that 928 Spec sell.
The company who make it is called Real Gasket.
The cork gasket is a joke and the main reason our cars leak so much oil.
While you are doing the MM its a little bit of extra work to drop the pan.
The silicone gasket is leak free. Fit and forget.
Roger
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I don't have an 85 or 86 so I am guessing about the location.
It could be in the round container on the fan shroud or under the main electrical post on the left hand side of the engine bay when viewed from the front.
Same air filter different location.
Roger
It could be in the round container on the fan shroud or under the main electrical post on the left hand side of the engine bay when viewed from the front.
Same air filter different location.
Roger
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The motor mounts are easy to check from underneath. You can look for the result of bad mounts, which is the oil pan resting on the crossmember, then check the mounts directly.
On the right side of the car you will see from behind the crossmember that the mount has top and bottom plates with interlocking hooks. If the mounts are good, you cannot get two fingers between the hook ends. As the mounts compress, the hook ends separate. On the left side, the hooks are orientated in front of the crossmember.
If those don't look bad, then you might want to remove the lower bellhousing cover and slip a coat hanger probe down the TT to locate the front bearing. It should be maybe 6-10 inches from the end. In a vibrating car I found the front bearing had migrated from there to 27 inches down inside the tube.
On the right side of the car you will see from behind the crossmember that the mount has top and bottom plates with interlocking hooks. If the mounts are good, you cannot get two fingers between the hook ends. As the mounts compress, the hook ends separate. On the left side, the hooks are orientated in front of the crossmember.
If those don't look bad, then you might want to remove the lower bellhousing cover and slip a coat hanger probe down the TT to locate the front bearing. It should be maybe 6-10 inches from the end. In a vibrating car I found the front bearing had migrated from there to 27 inches down inside the tube.
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Another test that indicates that the mounts are still alive is that the motor rocks to the right when the throttle is agressively blipped from idle: should the motor not move, check the MM safety hook position as Bill describes - a final verifivation is to actually measure the installed height of the MM - flange to flange.
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The engine stays firm, and the whole car moves when the throttle is blipped.
I'll check the savety hooks when i'm changing the oil later.
I found the remains of the air pump filter housing when changing out the radiator yesterday. Looks like one of the previous owners decided to remove the system. What did it do? I've heard about having an air pump on US cars to reduce emmisions, but never in europe.
Ben
I'll check the savety hooks when i'm changing the oil later.
I found the remains of the air pump filter housing when changing out the radiator yesterday. Looks like one of the previous owners decided to remove the system. What did it do? I've heard about having an air pump on US cars to reduce emmisions, but never in europe.
Ben
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Hi dont change the oil as you will be having to drain the oil when you replace the pan gasket