John V

Hacker,

my '81 has intermittent heat issues and the problem is not under the console. On mine, there is a motor driven actuator just above your right knee under the dash (between the steering coulumn and the console) that has an edge finger connector (like a computer mother board). That connector has a tendancy to not make good contact and the motor fails to actuate to produce heat. I don't know what that motor/actuator is but you can actually see the lever that the motor turns. When you slide the temperature slider from hot to cold, the lever should travel from max open to max closed. Before you pull the console, I'd look at that. I can auctualy reach down while driving feel the actuator while turning up the heat. If it doesn't move, I don't get heat and I know the connector needs cleaning. I usually just wiggle the connector and it's enough to get the motor working. If you need me to, I may be able to snap a picture later tonight.

hacker-pschorr

John,
Thanks for the idea. I forgot to add the thermostate lever in my dash is stuck - will not move in either direction. So I plan to attack that first, see where that leads me. I need to run a bunch of wires for my data logging system so having the center out will make it easier to run all of these wires & sensors.

hacker-pschorr

Now with video goodness:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...39088837902323

Please pay no attention to the exhaust - last minute "patch job" last fall. To be fixed very soon.

sweanders

Sounds schweet!

Wade T

The car looks and sounds great!! And congrats on the numbers!

Bill Ball

Very schweet!

Does the breather feed into the airbox? I was wondering about the black puffs at the very high end of the RPM range.

hacker-pschorr

That's due to the rich mixture up top. Going back to the dyno soon to fix that. It's 10:1 air/fuel up top.

Bill Ball

Ah, so. Very impressive dyno.

85fortheDrive

Does this include those of us who plan to keep the car normally aspirated? I have heard tell of power boosting simply by modifying the exhaust.

If so, what do you recommend?

BTW, continued thanks for the coaching and support of the shlocky clutch bleeding. Power bleeder should be here on Monday.

hacker-pschorr

UPDATE ON POST #71

Ok - so who was saying I should just sell my ****-slow US 81 for a EuroS or a 32V? How many of those are making 400rwhp @ 5,000rpm?

Long story short - I have an ignition miss that was kicking in around 5,000 rpm on the dyno and in driving tests. I may have solved the problem tonight, will not be 100% sure until I'm able to do a few more WOT test drives.

Tonight I was unable to keep the tires hooked up in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear at wide open throttle. Having the car wiggle sideways in 3rd gear on the highway is a bit exciting. Needless to say she's making a bit of power.

The only change between the before & after run is the airbox in front of the supercharger.
I'm running a "one off" system that is based on the Murf928 32V supercharger kit. Certain items (like the intake before the blower) were compromised on my car.
Not anymore.
So the ONLY difference here is how much air I'm feeding to the blower. Everything else (including the pulley) is 100% the same as before


Things to note about this graph:

1. The "after" chart ends at 5,000rpm due to the above mentioned miss. I know for a fact it's ignition related. Once I have it sorted out I'll share the details for future projects some of you may be working on.

2. My car is making 300ft lbs of torque at 2,300rpm. So who out there still wants to tell me a centrifugal supercharger doesn't make power down low?

3. On the "before" chart torque started to fall off around 4,500rpm. Now it's still climbing past 5,000rpm.

4. Air / fuel was less than ideal on either of these runs. The before run was a bit rich (10:1 range) the "new" run was in the high 12's. The goal of this dyno day was to try and dial in my air / fuel. Due to the ignition miss I was unable to do anything with air / fuel. So my next dyno run (next week?) I'm going to play with the mixture.


Things I'm doing different on my car:

1. Colder spark plugs than stock - Bosch Copper #6

2. 85/86 exhaust manifolds & a stainless 3" Y collector going to a straight through Borla muffler. This sumbitch is LOUD!!!

V2Rocket

jesus.

Bret928

Holy Crap!

Sounds like thats one scream'n 16v!

Do show us the results once you've sorted out the miss?

jorj7

Very impressive. Looks like you may hit 440+ hp at 6400 rpm if you get the
problem fixed. Of course, you'd be doing it on 16-17 psi boost. If you can't
fix the problem, then you just have to live with short shifting that mother...

hacker-pschorr

6,400rpm??? Here I've been lifting at 6,000!!!!
Based on tonights test drive I think I did. For some reason I thought my plug gap was tighter than it actually was. The stock gap for a 16V is .028 - .032. My plugs were at .032!!!! IMO way to wide for a boosted motor.

So tonight I dropped the gap down to .020. Yes that is very small, I'll see how it works out on my daily commute.

I'm working on a project to convert this car to S4 LH & EZK this winter so I can Shark Tune it with knock sensors.

jorj7

Might mean you need to go to a little hotter plug. I was going to go with colder plugs on
my car, but Tim told me to stay with stock. Of course that was with 6-8 psi boost.