ColinB

Alan
I mangled the heads of several of my seat bolts and have replaced the four rear ones each side with stainless allen cap screws. They are made of harder material than the originals and the heads are taller so the allen key sits better in the socket. There is still enough clearance for the seat to move over the heads. I recommend you don't use the OE bolts when you reassemble.

Colin. 89GT

Alan

Colin - minus loctite the stock bolts are OK - with locktite they are a disaster!

I agree a deeper allen socket in the bolt head would really help - the stock ones are quite shallow. Stainless steel does sounds like a good option. There are limits on what will fit in the channel - but I think a small sub headed bolt (small bolt head with lower spreader flange) would be better than an allen socket head - certainly easier to find a decently capable socket... the allen adapters for socket sets are typically just too tall - except for mini-versions which just don't have enough leverage.

I'm going to be looking for some alternate options that might work better... for now I have one more battle to go!

Alan

SharkSkin

Heinrich, I see what you're saying now. Also, I forgot about the thick plates that the bolts thread into. I was either thinking of the bolts that hold the seat rail to the seat, or maybe not thinking at all... It's been a while since I last had my seats out.

Alan, I went back out and looked -- my seats are held in with standard M6 hex head bolts with a washer apiece. Looking at it reminded me, the only tool that will get them out is a 10mm universal socket. A regular 10mm socket won't even fit, much less allow me to attach a ratchet or extension. Works perfectly OK, just have to have the right tool. If you want to go with a taller internal hex, I think you will still need a balldriver which limits torque because they tend to snap off.

Bill Ball

Ah, OK. Hope I don't have to use this technique. Can't believe how stuck Alan's were, but you indicate this has happened to you too. Guess I'm the lucky one again.

Rob Edwards

I decided to pull the passenger seat today to A) Leatherique the hell out of it, and B) install my FE mount. I kroiled everything for an hour, and all six bolts came out ok ( the rear 4 were easier than the fronts). No sign of loctite anywhere, though there are the remnants of the orange and yellow ink torque inspection marks on the bolt heads.

So the seat is marinating in garbage bags in the back yard, and I can't seem to find the proper tightening torque values. Judging from what it took to break them loose, it can't be more than 15-20 ft lbs, but does anyone have an idea?


BTW, on page 72-1, there's a sentence that mentions that there are 2 sets of mounting holes on the seat rail carriers, and that the seat can be installed 25 mm further back for more legroom. My passenger seat was in the front set of holes, so if my driver's seat is the same, it's going back an inch!

Fogey1

For precise application of intense heat a butane powered mini torch works well.

Mine is made by Blazer, but I noticed a Bernz-o-matic in Home Despot last night. They're new, and cheaper, I think.

JWise

Swapping my comfort seats for a pair of sport seats. No Loctite on my bolts either, and all but the driver's side front bolts were clean as could be. Ordered a new set from Roger just to be safe, and like Rob, was wondering how much torque to apply. Anyone know? Neither Rob nor I saw it anywhere in the WSM.

Erik N

I've had the seats out from my '78 before, no problems at all. Don't remember if there was loctite or not.

linderpat

Holy thread resurrection Batman!

Rob Edwards

This torque information doesn't seem to exist anywhere. You'd think that Porsche might have come up with a torque value for their service techs to properly fasten down the seats... (Or perhaps there's jack diddly in the WSM on seats and seatbelts for liability reasons?)

Alan

Sheesh ! ancient history....