Alan

Anyone see any good reason to put loctite on seat bolts for the rails to floor attachment? I don't see its needed unless its a safety requirement due to the seat belt to seat attach on later cars? (of course its red loctite!).

Struggling to get my drivers seat out - passenger seat was a real bear several years ago too... These are in like a rock. Got the 4 rear bolts out - they are a little easier because you can get right above them - but the fronts @#$%!^&!!! Ahhhh!

I hate the attachment method anyway - the allen heads are just too small for the job it seems. One now has a quite circular hole in the middle. I've already dremmeled a slot in the head but have already broken the corners off a BMF screwdriver trying to loosen it. I've bashed it sideways a tad to break it free and have chiseled at the slot to initiate a turn but - still feels like its welded in.

I'd previoulsy attempted to loosen the threads with acetone
which I belive is an appropriate releaser - heat seems to be the other option - does this work any better? - I can only think of a soldering iron on the head - I think a heat gun is too uncontrollable next to the seat... any others BTDT and who do I chalk up the loctite to - original Porsche or a PO/Mechanic with a sadistic streak? Any better ideas?

I'm contemplating just dremmeling the head right off if all else fails - what a PITA!

Anyone do anything different for easier out seat bolts?
(although my passenger bolts now come out easy enough now I've done the hard procedure once...)

Alan

Rod Underwood

I just replaced the rear seats in my 82 yesterday and the bolts for those had blue loctite on them as well. Needless to say, I did not use loctite when I replaced them.

Rod

the flyin' scotsman

Alan........heat, a good thread penetrater and an impact gun. If you can't get a gun in there can you use an impact driver? You need to break the loctite and the impact solution shall work 10 times better than pure strength.

Oldtee

Don't you hate that feeling that you would like to do damage to a PO!

Alan

Oldtee - I have a feeling it came form the factory like this...

I still had the same bad thoughts though...!

Alan

bd0nalds0n

On a related note--

When you take the plastic covers off the seat back, exposing the reclining mechanism, there are 2 15mm bolts that hold the seat back to the mechanism. Those bolts are blue loctited, too.

I wouldn't think there'd be enough vibration to work any of these loose, but Hans must've disagreed.

SharkSkin

Alan, I'd say cut them off. Nothing breaks loctite red better than heat. It turns to powder at about 400°F. You can get some "heat chalk" at a welding supply place to help you determine when you reach that temp.

Once you cut & heat them, dremel a slot in the remaining part of the bolt and it should come out easily.

Bill Ball

Using an Allen socket and ratchet, they came free easily on an 87 yesterday. Was able to get a straight shot at the fronts with the seat raised and back all the way. If somebody red loctited them, Dave has the solution.

AO

I agree. Cut it off and replace with a regular bolt.

heinrich

I've destroyed the head of these bolts with great success. Another (better) way is to grasp the thread and turn from below.

Kevin in Atlanta

I don't think a bolt will work. The seat rail is narrower at the top.

When unscrewing those bolts it always a good idea to use a hammer to get the allen to properly seat itself. A good ball ended allen is the perfect tool for getting the rear screws out.

SharkSkin

H, doesn't that bugger up the threads in the welded-in nut when the munged threads go through it? Remember, he's dealing with loctite too... if he grips it hard enough to turn even against "released" loctite, it's going to destroy the threads. OTOH, with the heads cut off it might be easier to do as you say, accessing from below, but turning so they move down through the nut -- so long as they are cut clean enough to not destroy the threads in the nut.

Bill Ball

H'man: You are true gymnist. The rear rails are closed and the threads are not accessible from below, at least on the S4. In the front, the bolts screw into a thick reinforcement block, so the threads don't show. Thank the Lord they came out easily yesterday.

Alan

Well - semi-success.. all of the rears out and one of the fronts - the one I was already serious about... I remembered I had a mini heat gun (never normally use it) - this has a very small nozzle and I was careful to monitor surrounding temps - didn't seem to heat much else up... the U shaped rail is a good heat channel... Then some mighty whacks with a cold chisel on the new head slot with a big hammer - after five whacks it moved 1/4 turn... more acetone and after 10 minutes it screwed right out. With only one left I was able to wiggle the seat a little.. passenger side is easy at this point but drivers side doesn't move much due to the hand brake cover... the inboard one will be harder to dremmel and access - so I decided to give up on it for now... found a away around that obstacle... Good news is I already got 12 new bolts from 928 Intl last year so I replaced them all (passenger side too - just the 1 left to go - BTW they come without washers...) and they all screw in and out easy now... no more loctite (I'll just monitor them)

Below is how the bolt looked after I got it out - bottom line - if you need to get seat bolts out and they are locked - heat them up (real hot!) before you strip the hex heads... my lesson learned... Pretty confident I can get it out next weekend quite quickly but my appontment with Uncle Sam was calling loudly (or was that my wife reminding me again...!)

Alan

heinrich

Dave, yes, buggars up the threads but the idea is to jiggle it just enough to get it turning. Bill, great point, I had forgotten we were talking about rears ... Oh Bill also, the bolts sit in a 1/4-in threaded steel piece, that sucker makes a great lever for breaking off bolts and then you're free ... but the threads I recall stick out, I know I grabbed 'em up front. Not rears.