Chuck Z

In order to bolt the H&R spacers on to the rear hub I need more threaded area on the rear wheel studs. Question is; can I cut more threads on the smooth part of the wheel stud closer to the hub or is it not as thick as the threaded area? If I can, great! If not, why not? Any possible downside like a weaker stud? Thanks guys.....

Rob Edwards

Can't tell without measuring, but it looks like you could cut more threads. No idea RE: possibly weakening it.

Chuck Z

You're awesome Rob! I was hoping you might have a pic and respond.

The recessed area on the mounting face of my Sport Edition Cup 4 wheels don't even come close to accepting the petruding studs of either the spacer or the hub. They aren't close to lining up....... I'm thinking I'm going to have to take the studs out of the H&R spacers then tighthen the spacer down with a steel lug nut but I need more threads. I would then bolt the wheels down on the same stud....

Thoughts?

borland

Do they make a thinner spacer that could be combined with another spacer to give you the same spacing result? That would eliminate the nut bottoming out on the stud.

Chuck Z

Yes. Thought about that, just want to limit the number of spacers I have on the hub. I could just bolt the wheel to the hub but I was wanting to secure the spacer somehow and make everything good and tight.

Chuck Z

....just had a thought; I could have a machine shop cut down the factory spacer by 5-6mm is all I'd need? Might be a good option.....

the flyin' scotsman

The studs material should be consistant throughout its length so given this more threading isn't an issue.

I'd try to do the threading in situ as pressing out/in the studs may cause more harm than good.

mark kibort

thats what I did with my 84 spacers. just 4mm is all I needed to make the wheels i had fit with the flares of the car with the larger tires.
why would you want to use the bolt on spacers? wont the excess bolt not fit into the wheel cut outs anyway?

just have it machined out. actually, I think I still have my machined spacers.maybe Ill trade you for the stock stuff. about 20mm, right? mine is machined down to about 16mm i think. Ill have to check

mk

Rob Edwards

Yes, the stud recesses on the Cup 4's are teeny, compared to the Cup 1's:

Cup 4:




Cup 1:

blown 87

Yep.

mark kibort

I use the factory bolt on spacers, and I wish i didnt have to. But, the cut outs only allow for the hub studs with nuts to be just over near flush. any more stud out of the nut and it will bottom out. as it was , i had to do some grinding on the kinesis wheels so that the nuts fit in that space.

jon928se

You can see that on the photo - the threads are a larger diameter than the unthreaded shaft of the stud.

Because the threads are rolled not cut the unthreaded shaft diameter will be too small to cut a full thread depth thread.

svp928

Chuck, the stud threads are rolled originally, that is they are formed by a special set of rollers that actually squish the metal into the shape of the threads. The diameter of the blank stud is smaller than the actual OD of thread for this reason, so if you cut threads in the blank, they will be incomplete, PLUS, you will be introducing sharp corners at the bottom of the cut thread and weaken the stud at the worst possible place.
This would not be good.

FWIW,
Steve

Rob Edwards

So the safe solution is replacing the studs, but to do that you need to pull the hub, which means you destroy (and have to replace) the rear wheel bearings. Not a trivial exercise, especially since the B90 tool doesn't work on GTS studs...

the flyin' scotsman

Great info Steve................we live and learn