Flywheel Install and loctite on bolts?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Flywheel Install and loctite on bolts?
The manual doesn't mention using loctite or anything like this. Does anyone have any recommendations?
#3
Rennlist Member
I used "blue" Loctite, and then torqued to spec. To me a little added insurance is worth a big piece of mind. I'd sure hate to have a bolt back out at 6K+ rpms. Just my 2 cents.
Last edited by Chris Lockhart; 04-07-2006 at 07:43 AM. Reason: wrong word
#4
Loctitie - follow the manual. The PO decided to use Loctite on my cam cover bolts - Had to cut the cam cover off to get to the bolt - used every gadget known to man to remove it - The drilled the bolt - then used the easyout - then the bolt snapped.
For some reason - there's probably a logical reason why the manual doesn't mention it..
Chuck
83 Kiln Red 928S
For some reason - there's probably a logical reason why the manual doesn't mention it..
Chuck
83 Kiln Red 928S
#6
Nordschleife Master
I used loc-tite on those flywheel bolts. The _blue_ stuff! Red is for permanent installations. Doesn't increase holding torque that much but keeps them from backing out.
Use anti-seize on those cam tower bolts. Sounds like it may have been overtorqued.
Use anti-seize on those cam tower bolts. Sounds like it may have been overtorqued.
#7
Drifting
I bought new ones and just torqued them to spec. I have never used loc-tite on the shark but i have used anti-seize on a lot of engine fasteners, especially spark plugs.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone!
#9
Burning Brakes
If you do use anti-sieze, a torque correction factor must be used. I believe a higher torque value is necessary compared to not using a thread lubricant.
I learned the hard way: I used never sieze on my cam tower bolts and torqued to spec. WSM states that engine oil should be used, but this did not give me the warm and fuzzy feeling. The towers began to leak oil (significantly) after about 1000mi. A Re-torque was necessary, and I found that some tower bolts were actually finger tight!
I learned the hard way: I used never sieze on my cam tower bolts and torqued to spec. WSM states that engine oil should be used, but this did not give me the warm and fuzzy feeling. The towers began to leak oil (significantly) after about 1000mi. A Re-torque was necessary, and I found that some tower bolts were actually finger tight!
#12
The point with flywheel bolts is that the bolt doesn't prevent shear, it is the clamping force of the squeese. Flywheel bolts that aren't real tight are going to shear right off due to the hammering they will get from the flywheel shifting back and forth. Where they typically break is flush with the end of the flywheel.
I'm sure that Mark Robinson can crank up those bolts real tight, and probably can feel the difference between eighty and 100 ft #, but for mere mortals it is better to use a torque wrench. I have never felt the need to replace flywheel bolts, nor have I ever used locktite or antisieze on them. I have never had them fail on me, and I drive hard but shift smooth. I have however replaced sheared flywheel bolts on other rebuilt engines, so torque those suckers. Tighten them in a star pattern, and bring up the torque in stages. No schmutz between flywheel and crankshaft. LOL
I'm sure that Mark Robinson can crank up those bolts real tight, and probably can feel the difference between eighty and 100 ft #, but for mere mortals it is better to use a torque wrench. I have never felt the need to replace flywheel bolts, nor have I ever used locktite or antisieze on them. I have never had them fail on me, and I drive hard but shift smooth. I have however replaced sheared flywheel bolts on other rebuilt engines, so torque those suckers. Tighten them in a star pattern, and bring up the torque in stages. No schmutz between flywheel and crankshaft. LOL