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Flywheel Install and loctite on bolts?

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Old 04-07-2006, 12:57 AM
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checkmate1996
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Default Flywheel Install and loctite on bolts?

The manual doesn't mention using loctite or anything like this. Does anyone have any recommendations?
Old 04-07-2006, 01:48 AM
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Bill Ball
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I followed the manual.
Old 04-07-2006, 07:42 AM
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Chris Lockhart
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I used "blue" Loctite, and then torqued to spec. To me a little added insurance is worth a big piece of mind. I'd sure hate to have a bolt back out at 6K+ rpms. Just my 2 cents.

Last edited by Chris Lockhart; 04-07-2006 at 07:43 AM. Reason: wrong word
Old 04-07-2006, 10:16 AM
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cdbtx
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Loctitie - follow the manual. The PO decided to use Loctite on my cam cover bolts - Had to cut the cam cover off to get to the bolt - used every gadget known to man to remove it - The drilled the bolt - then used the easyout - then the bolt snapped.

For some reason - there's probably a logical reason why the manual doesn't mention it..


Chuck

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Old 04-07-2006, 10:18 AM
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MarkRobinson
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I"ve never used loctite, strongly hand-tigthen, nearly equiv to specs, never had a problem.
Old 04-07-2006, 10:52 AM
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GlenL
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I used loc-tite on those flywheel bolts. The _blue_ stuff! Red is for permanent installations. Doesn't increase holding torque that much but keeps them from backing out.

Use anti-seize on those cam tower bolts. Sounds like it may have been overtorqued.
Old 04-07-2006, 11:30 AM
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tv
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I bought new ones and just torqued them to spec. I have never used loc-tite on the shark but i have used anti-seize on a lot of engine fasteners, especially spark plugs.
Old 04-07-2006, 11:45 AM
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checkmate1996
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Thanks everyone!
Old 04-07-2006, 12:20 PM
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hupp
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If you do use anti-sieze, a torque correction factor must be used. I believe a higher torque value is necessary compared to not using a thread lubricant.

I learned the hard way: I used never sieze on my cam tower bolts and torqued to spec. WSM states that engine oil should be used, but this did not give me the warm and fuzzy feeling. The towers began to leak oil (significantly) after about 1000mi. A Re-torque was necessary, and I found that some tower bolts were actually finger tight!
Old 04-07-2006, 02:15 PM
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mulik51
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I can't help with the Loctite, but I know that you HAVE to use new bolts....


Klim
Old 04-07-2006, 02:50 PM
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Bill Ball
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Hi Klim:

Where does the new bolt claim come from? I did use new bolts but was told I didn't need to.
Old 04-08-2006, 12:09 AM
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Daniel Dudley
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The point with flywheel bolts is that the bolt doesn't prevent shear, it is the clamping force of the squeese. Flywheel bolts that aren't real tight are going to shear right off due to the hammering they will get from the flywheel shifting back and forth. Where they typically break is flush with the end of the flywheel.

I'm sure that Mark Robinson can crank up those bolts real tight, and probably can feel the difference between eighty and 100 ft #, but for mere mortals it is better to use a torque wrench. I have never felt the need to replace flywheel bolts, nor have I ever used locktite or antisieze on them. I have never had them fail on me, and I drive hard but shift smooth. I have however replaced sheared flywheel bolts on other rebuilt engines, so torque those suckers. Tighten them in a star pattern, and bring up the torque in stages. No schmutz between flywheel and crankshaft. LOL



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