Impact driver?
02-23-2006, 05:36 PM
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Impact driver?
Anyone ever used one? Not an air or electric impact driver, but an impact screw driver.
Might it come with a hex key (allen bolt) attachment that could be used on the coolant cross member?
When I finaly get around to fixing my car, I'm going to need to pull the manafold for the coolent that is at the top forount of the engine off. I have a hint that the hex bolts are stucker than all get out, and would like to get them out as easily as possible.
Might it come with a hex key (allen bolt) attachment that could be used on the coolant cross member?
When I finaly get around to fixing my car, I'm going to need to pull the manafold for the coolent that is at the top forount of the engine off. I have a hint that the hex bolts are stucker than all get out, and would like to get them out as easily as possible.
02-23-2006, 05:40 PM
#2
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Just use and pipe as an extension on a regular allen key. BUT before you do anything, take a long socket extension, place it on top of the allen head bolt and give it a nice, but not too hard of a tap. This should break loose the treads and make the removal much easier.
02-23-2006, 05:43 PM
#3
Supercharged
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Posts: 18,925
Likes: 0
Received 60 Likes
on
34 Posts
The one I have from HF has a 1/2" drive, plus various screw driver bits. It works really good for getting the mounting screws out of the rotors. Very handy tool to have. Just whack with a dead blow hammer and done!
02-23-2006, 05:45 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Kroil the bolts before starting, let em soak for a bit, then rapp the heads like Imo000 recommended and the should come out okay. Just make sure the allen has clean sides and is fully seated in the head before turning.
02-23-2006, 06:01 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Do the kroil soak, rap the head inwards, etc as everyone said .... but try to avoid applying too much static force, until that is the last resort: they will snap or twist off all too easily. Because they are angled into the heads, any break above the head surface will force you to drill the stub out to allow the bridge to release.
If you do not have extra long 3/8" drive allan keys, cut a long key and stuff it into a 6mm 6-point socket (M6 IIRS). Then, with preferably a 3/8" butterfly air wrench ( or a 3/8 impact wrench will do on a low setting), gently try to work the allan bolts back and forth - like a 1/16 turn.
Slow progress may get them all out in one piece - apply the muscle, and odds are at least one will snap ...
If you do not have extra long 3/8" drive allan keys, cut a long key and stuff it into a 6mm 6-point socket (M6 IIRS). Then, with preferably a 3/8" butterfly air wrench ( or a 3/8 impact wrench will do on a low setting), gently try to work the allan bolts back and forth - like a 1/16 turn.
Slow progress may get them all out in one piece - apply the muscle, and odds are at least one will snap ...
02-23-2006, 06:15 PM
#7
Pro
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Brentwood, TN
Posts: 740
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All I can say is be real careful. The recommendations about using a long shank Allen Key is a good one. If you chuck one into an air wrench, make sure you actually are using the correct size Allen Key. It is very easy to get that silly little millimeter off and round out the inside of the bolt. Make sure your pressure is turned down on the wrnech, I put mine on 50 lbs when working with small nots and bolts. Impact wrenches use a set of "hammers" inside the gear box to rap sharply on the turning shaft. It should not take too many raps to free up a bolt which has been soaked with Kroil. Be careful out there!
And, PS, the Harbor Freight 12volt "emergency impact wrench" works only after you take it apart and replace the crappy chinese springs the manufacturer used inside the hammer assembly. The original ones break on the first few turns. Since then mine has been used alongside the road many times when I do the good sammie bit and help someone out.
Cheers,
And, PS, the Harbor Freight 12volt "emergency impact wrench" works only after you take it apart and replace the crappy chinese springs the manufacturer used inside the hammer assembly. The original ones break on the first few turns. Since then mine has been used alongside the road many times when I do the good sammie bit and help someone out.
Cheers,
Trending Topics
02-23-2006, 06:24 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Not close enough to VIR.
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
My HF 12V impact wrench has worked perfectly since I bought it. It has removed some bolts and lug nuts that two 1/2" air impact wrenches wouldn't budge.
02-23-2006, 06:28 PM
#9
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Does the oil seperator unit, or the coolent manafold come out first?
Basicly, does the oil seperator come off the frount side of the engine? Or does the intake manafold and tb have to come off first?
Basicly, does the oil seperator come off the frount side of the engine? Or does the intake manafold and tb have to come off first?
02-23-2006, 08:00 PM
#10
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
The classic impact wrench is an absolute necessity for working on old motorcycles where Philips head screws were used to secure engine cases. I have a couple. I haven't found a need for one of these wrenches on the 928.
02-23-2006, 08:09 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Coolant bridge first, oil fill fixture second ...
The oil fill can be loosened and lifted ~1/4inch to get at the gasket - but will not come out. It may go rearward with the intake off - see pic below
BTW - that is a butterfly wrench in the foreground ( in case it's called something else in Tx)
The oil fill can be loosened and lifted ~1/4inch to get at the gasket - but will not come out. It may go rearward with the intake off - see pic below
BTW - that is a butterfly wrench in the foreground ( in case it's called something else in Tx)
