FeedNfrenZ

New Battery, Alt. 14 volts, replaced starter (used), cleaned battery and engine ground. The engine rolls over slow, starts fine, runs smooth, revs., idles okay. When it gets up to temp. it just flat out dies at an idle. Then barley rolls over. It may start and die. It may start idle rough then settle out. Gun the engine and let the throttle go and it'll die. Try to roll it over again and it'll barely roll again. I put a socket on the crank and I can turn it, not easy but all plugs etc. ARE still connected and in. Let it cool and repeat. It's done this to me several times.
I need help?
One other note: I've just replaced the #24 injectors with #30, adj. fuel reg. and redone the intake during my supercharger install

FeedNfrenZ

One other thing......... no smog pump but cats. still in (hadn't had a chance to install the bypass yet)

Bill51sdr

How do your plugs look? Just hoping you are running REALLY rich...

the flyin' scotsman

When was the last time you loosend the pressure on the thrust bearing?

bd0nalds0n

What kind of fuel pressure are you getting?

m21sniper

I assume that the motor ran fine before you did the S/C and injector install?

If so, that would almost certainly eliminate the thrust bearing failure that you are alluding to.

That happens over a long period of time, so unless yours was almost shot when you began the S/C install, you should be OK.

Bill Ball

Well, let's get down to it....Have you checked the crank endplay recently?

Kevin in Atlanta

If the engine was fine before the latest mods, I would doubt TBF. I seem to remember Tony going to bigger injectors and having a start problem. So, before we all panic it's time to go back over what changed.

JP Rodkey

Cam timing.

Bill Ball

He says - car turns over SLOWLY despite new battery, starter, etc. Dies when warm and BARELY turns over.

Why are you guys suspecting injectors, fuel pressure or cam timing?

Eh, sorry. I guess we should always offer hope!

FeedNfrenZ

Plugs look okay (not wet, no dark carbon, changed them). Air fuel meter shows normal to rich under throttle. Trust bearing has never been loostened to my knowledge. I've adjusted the fuel pressure down to 30lbs. Haven't checked crank shaft play. Did timing belt and water pump replacement while intake was at powder coating shop.
I never had a chance to put many miles on it after Katrina but it definatley didn't do this when I did run/drive it. One other thing that I did notice that maybe unrelated: when in park I rev. the engine and the car surges forward. I've never had that happen before?

Bill Ball

That's interesting. Does it do this in Neutral too? Torque converter problem. Maybe Steve C will notice and comment.

I think there may be a lubrication problem in the tranny/torque converter. That could be better news that TBF, but it would be useful to check the flexplate for preload at least.

hupp

This may be a shot in the dark, but if possible you may try uncoupling the torque tube from the crank. Start and see if the problem persists. Maybe this will isolate the problem to the tranny.

But then again, running the engine with the coupler slid back on the TT shaft may not be a good idea. My shark is a 5-speed and the short slined shaft could possibly slide out of the pilot bearing and touch off on the TT shaft end. Not sure about an auto set-up, maybe one of the experts can comment.

FeedNfrenZ

I've been inside of a few engines but they have usually been boat engines and never a Porsche. Trying to break the problem down to one common issue, I've come to the conclusion that the engine is simply too hard to turn and when it heats up the metals expand and it can't sustain an idle. I have a hard time believing that it would be a piston/cylinder problem. That to me would be a one time all she wrote issue. SO........... what can cause a problem like this?
More info: Oil preassure has always been good, temp has never run hot, I have noticed that it seems to shift at a slightly higher RPM.

AO

Brent-
Unless you feel really lucky, I would get under the car and check the flex plate. Your hard starting and hard cranking are tell-tale signs. You may also want to change the oil and look ofr metal bits. Scott's suggestion about disconecting the TT maybe worthwhile once you're in there.

There really isn't too much involved. Biggest part of the job is dropping the cats (if you have them). After that, 6 bolts on the bellhousing, and you're there. There are a number of write ups I believe. I would do it for peace of mind. If all is good then you can start looking elsewhere - like the tranny, etc.