Oldtee

When it is running can you smell burned oil. Remove the filler cover while it is running and see if it smokes. That will tell you if there is a lot of internal resistance. Also, take the fan belt off the air pump. If this doesn't tell you something I might suspect the TB is not properlly installed, or out of spec.

FeedNfrenZ

Yes, I do smell oil. My cam covers are temporarily vented with 5/8 hose to a K&N filter. When I first satred it after redoing the intake, installing the supercgarger, etc. I had quiet a bit of smoke, the smoke has calmed down but I do still have an oil smell. Don't see smoke out of the filler but like I said my cam covers are vented to the atmosphere. No, air pump, cats. bypassed but I DID just notice the toothed belt light DID come on. I just replaced it and retensioned it. I'll recheck the tension tomorrow, if okay I'll check the circuit.

Bill Ball

5MM is not much. 3MM is common. I don't think you have ruled out TBF yet. You really should get a dial gauge and check the crank endplay. It should be less than 0.4MM

FeedNfrenZ

Bill do you have info. on crank end play checking proceedure?

SharkSkin

Just set a dial indicator on the end of the crank and gently lever it fore and aft. It shouldn't take a lot of pressure.

FeedNfrenZ

Isn't that the same as when I levered the flywheel fore and aft.?

SharkSkin

I 'm not sure -- the 3-4mm you describe in post #29 above is either the distance that the collar moved or if it's the difference that the crank moved it's 10X the allowable limit! Ideally you would only measure crank movement. I'll see if I can find an appropriate pic in the WSM. If you don't have a dial indicator and don't use one enough to justify the $ for a quality setup you can get by fine with something as simple as this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93051

SharkSkin

Here ya go... it's not necessary to strip the engine down this far, you can measure at the flywheel or pulleys/balancer. Just make sure the indicator's axis of movement is parallel with the crank's axis of rotation.

FeedNfrenZ

I think that that I have my answer http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/cranksha.htm I didn't use a dial indicator but from what I saw it WILL be out of spec. when I do put a dial on it.
SO......... is that causing the car to die? Are there any options other than jerking

SharkSkin

Yes, Tony's method is just as valid, so long as the crank doesn't turn, and the surfaces are clean for all measurements. If it's at .41, that might not be such a big deal -- yet. If it's way out, pull the motor and if you're lucky a new set of bearings is all it will take(plus the WYAIT's). From thrust bearing shells I've seen, if there is more than 1.5mm of play the block may be toast BUT I COULD BE WRONG. I don't know the exact thickness of the thrust face, and there are many other variables.

m21sniper

Bro if it's out of spec it's because the Thrust bearing is wasted. If that is the case, the motor is junk.

SharkSkin

Not necessarily. New spec allows for up to .312mm, with the outer limit being .4mm. The thrust surface is more than .088mm thick, I'm sure of that. I think it's closer to 1mm of thrust face. The actual useful bearing surface coating is much thinner, but I think the whole thrust face has to be gone to start eating the block. I'm no expert on the actual amount of wear needed to begin grinding the block but I seriously doubt that a motor with say .5mm end play(out of spec) is guaranteed to be horked. One step at a time -- we need measurements.

SharkSkin

To those who have stared TBF in the face -- I've seen pics, but never an actual occurance -- do you think it's possible to get in through the oil plug or maybe the drain galleys from the heads with one of these borescopes to check for block damage?

Bill Ball

The clamp jumping 5MM is not an issue. You need to lever the flywheel/crank back and forth and measure that movement with Tony's method or a dial indicator. If it is out of spec (much more than 0.4MM), then, yes, this is the likely explanation for the stalling and slow starting when warm. The symptoms are classic for TBF. I don't want to tell you your block is toast. The engine should be pulled to examine the extent of the damage. As shown here:
http://jenniskens.internet-land.nl/T...ingFailure.htm
the crank machines the block.

Niels Jørgensen

Bill, thanks for the link - I've never quite understood this whole TBF thing, but that link explains it very well... With pictures, even

May be a stupid question, but the article states, without further explanation, that this is only an issue with automatic transmissions. Anyone care to elaborate?

I also had idle issues, and start problems, but they went away when I got a fixed MAF.