I fear the worst! Help!
#62
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My thoughts: even if the thrust bearing has failed. Why is it stopping so sudden? not like it's loading down and then locking up. Why can I restart it right away? If it locked up I sould have to wait. Why did it stop today with the trans. disconnected even before it got hot?
One other note the valves seem to have more clatter than before.
One other note the valves seem to have more clatter than before.
#63
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Brent............given the diagnosis that has been given and you'vd executed can you go back to before the SC change?
My personal position on the MAF and other electronics is their age and requirement for refurb or replacement before adding a SC.
Do you have access to a new/refurb MAF?
My personal position on the MAF and other electronics is their age and requirement for refurb or replacement before adding a SC.
Do you have access to a new/refurb MAF?
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Do you have a fuel pressure gauge installed with the SC kit? That should help you a bit...saved me MANY times!
Do you have your MAF in backwards?
Do you have your MAF in backwards?
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Originally Posted by FeedNfrenZ
One other note the valves seem to have more clatter than before.
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Originally Posted by FeedNfrenZ
My thoughts: even if the thrust bearing has failed. Why is it stopping so sudden? not like it's loading down and then locking up. Why can I restart it right away? If it locked up I sould have to wait. Why did it stop today with the trans. disconnected even before it got hot?
The stuff you report with the tube to the MAF removal leading to improvement in idle is hard to figure too. Perhaps with the fiddling you jostled the plug connectors and fixed and intermittent connection.
Anyway, I still think the endplay measurement needs to be done. If that's good, then stop worrying about TBF and we can scratch our heads some more.
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Clatter could be from lifters, since you're obviously not driving it much these days. Is there anyone near you with a Hammer or Spanner that can check for fault codes? Can you hook a voltmeter to your coil primary to see if there is a loss of power as the car dies? Maybe try jumping the ignition relays?
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Brent,
The better you paint the picture as we get into this thread .... I find myself thinking of your relay panel. A weak relay could be overheating and popping open: it may be worth your while dropping 3 fresh standard relays into the fuel pump, EZK, and LH ..... the quick restart ability could be all a relay needs to reengage .....
The better you paint the picture as we get into this thread .... I find myself thinking of your relay panel. A weak relay could be overheating and popping open: it may be worth your while dropping 3 fresh standard relays into the fuel pump, EZK, and LH ..... the quick restart ability could be all a relay needs to reengage .....
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All good advice guys! I am presently back to presupercharger state aside from the #30 injectors, adj. fuel reg., FMU and the replumbed hoses (venting) and vacuum lines (from throttle body area). I'm pretty sure the MAF is in correct but I'll recheck. I have access to a 1985S MAF? Is it compatable?
I do have a fuel pressure gauge, I've watched it during all of this and have never lost pressure. I've also tried adjusting it up and down with the adjustable regulator but saw no real change.
The clatter sounds like the valves and could be caused by low oil pressure. I dropped the filter twice last night and didn't have new oil to replace in the engine. I'll need to top it off today.
I have NOT driven the car since I've released the pressure on the flexplate. I've also tried running the car with the crank pushed forward and ran it pushed back (no differance).
I don't have access to a diag. device but monitoring the coil voltage was something that wanted to do. Is there a good place to monitor it? I tried swapping a few relays (keep in mind all relays are not in) I only have 6 in........... I think. Start, ignition, fuel pump, EZK, LH and ???? I'll check and replace
no change by the way when I swapped but still need to look at.
Thanks again for all of the GREAT HELP!
I do have a fuel pressure gauge, I've watched it during all of this and have never lost pressure. I've also tried adjusting it up and down with the adjustable regulator but saw no real change.
The clatter sounds like the valves and could be caused by low oil pressure. I dropped the filter twice last night and didn't have new oil to replace in the engine. I'll need to top it off today.
I have NOT driven the car since I've released the pressure on the flexplate. I've also tried running the car with the crank pushed forward and ran it pushed back (no differance).
I don't have access to a diag. device but monitoring the coil voltage was something that wanted to do. Is there a good place to monitor it? I tried swapping a few relays (keep in mind all relays are not in) I only have 6 in........... I think. Start, ignition, fuel pump, EZK, LH and ???? I'll check and replace
no change by the way when I swapped but still need to look at.
Thanks again for all of the GREAT HELP!
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I have access to a 1985S MAF? Is it compatable?
Looks like you're getting closer. I'm watching this thread with great anticipation and have all my fingers and toes crossed for you.
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If this has not been looked at already.....This is just a shot in the dark here, but is it possible that you have disturbed the vacuum system and something is not connected?...Seems to me that running problems can be associated to a vacuum leak....I too have been watching this thread with anticipation and with my fingers crossed for a positive outcome. Goodluck Brent.........
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You can check the coil primary voltage at the coil... the small connectors on either side of the large HV connector. If voltage(~12V) is maintained at the coil when the car dies, that pretty much rules out most of the possible electical issues IMHO.
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Went home for lunch and checked a few things. MAF is in correctly. I checked vaccum and there was none. I must have pulled the line loose from the throttle body somewhere down the line. I reconnected it but it didn't make much differance other than bringing the fuel pressure down so I raised it back to about 30lbs. I checked the voltage at the drivers side coil. 13.67 volts. I idles very low 500 rpms and if you rev. it and let it go it will either die or come close to dieing.
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OK, maybe the idle control valve is not quite up to the task. Usually the idle will fluctaue a lot with a sticky valve, but who knows. Give it the WD-40 (Kroil, PB Blaster) treatment down the vacuum hose that feeds it (big line off the manifold on the driver side that heads towards the rear under the manifold).
You know, the other thing with the Murph kit, if that is what you have, that could be an issue is the rubber plugs that go into the MAF to throttle boot to fill some breather hose holes when the hoses are removed. Are those firmly in place?
You know, the other thing with the Murph kit, if that is what you have, that could be an issue is the rubber plugs that go into the MAF to throttle boot to fill some breather hose holes when the hoses are removed. Are those firmly in place?
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Brent,
If this is not TBF related, look to the SC install.
I don't know what kit you are using, but if a CS system, make sure all the air going through the MAF is getting into the intake manifold. The elbow between the MAF and the throttle body needs to be airtight. It can and will push off under boost if not properly clamped and braced to the engine. Murph supplies the bracket and clamps that work well. There is also a port in the elbow which needs to be plugged in the same elbow to keep the air in the intake. Metered air that does not reach the intake will produce some odd running characteristics.
Also, if the A/F meter is wired to the stock NBO2 sensor, don't rely on it for super precise A/F info.
Sure sounds like TBF, but hope not for your sake. It would seem odd to be perfect before the SC, and like this immediately after. Better SC install problems than the alternative.
Jim
If this is not TBF related, look to the SC install.
I don't know what kit you are using, but if a CS system, make sure all the air going through the MAF is getting into the intake manifold. The elbow between the MAF and the throttle body needs to be airtight. It can and will push off under boost if not properly clamped and braced to the engine. Murph supplies the bracket and clamps that work well. There is also a port in the elbow which needs to be plugged in the same elbow to keep the air in the intake. Metered air that does not reach the intake will produce some odd running characteristics.
Also, if the A/F meter is wired to the stock NBO2 sensor, don't rely on it for super precise A/F info.
Sure sounds like TBF, but hope not for your sake. It would seem odd to be perfect before the SC, and like this immediately after. Better SC install problems than the alternative.
Jim