I fear the worst! Help!
02-16-2006, 05:25 PM
#76
Originally Posted by Garth S
Brent,
The better you paint the picture as we get into this thread .... I find myself thinking of your relay panel. A weak relay could be overheating and popping open: it may be worth your while dropping 3 fresh standard relays into the fuel pump, EZK, and LH ..... the quick restart ability could be all a relay needs to reengage .....
The better you paint the picture as we get into this thread .... I find myself thinking of your relay panel. A weak relay could be overheating and popping open: it may be worth your while dropping 3 fresh standard relays into the fuel pump, EZK, and LH ..... the quick restart ability could be all a relay needs to reengage .....
02-16-2006, 05:27 PM
#77
Originally Posted by FeedNfrenZ
Went home for lunch and checked a few things. MAF is in correctly. I checked vaccum and there was none. I must have pulled the line loose from the throttle body somewhere down the line. I reconnected it but it didn't make much differance other than bringing the fuel pressure down so I raised it back to about 30lbs. I checked the voltage at the drivers side coil. 13.67 volts. I idles very low 500 rpms and if you rev. it and let it go it will either die or come close to dieing.
02-16-2006, 05:33 PM
#78
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Originally Posted by FeedNfrenZ
Went home for lunch and checked a few things. MAF is in correctly. I checked vaccum and there was none. I must have pulled the line loose from the throttle body somewhere down the line. I reconnected it but it didn't make much differance other than bringing the fuel pressure down so I raised it back to about 30lbs. I checked the voltage at the drivers side coil. 13.67 volts. I idles very low 500 rpms and if you rev. it and let it go it will either die or come close to dieing.
With 30lb injectors you should probably run about 30psi without vacuum. Vacuum should drop it to 24ish. I didn't check a calculator, but those should be close enough. With 24lb injectors it would be 36psi no vac and 30psi with vac.
Is the car running on all cylinders?
02-16-2006, 05:49 PM
#79
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Not to disagree with Matt, but 30# of fuel pressure at idle with vacuum connected if fine with a CS boosted 928 using 30# injectors. A year plus with that setup, no issues, stoich at idle, and passes emissions with ease. Get the fuel pressure too low and the injector spray pattern may get poor.
Jim
Jim
02-16-2006, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim R.
Not to disagree with Matt, but 30# of fuel pressure at idle with vacuum connected if fine with a CS boosted 928 using 30# injectors. A year plus with that setup, no issues, stoich at idle, and passes emissions with ease. Get the fuel pressure too low and the injector spray pattern may get poor.
Jim
Jim
02-16-2006, 08:37 PM
#82
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I had an issue where my car would not idle after the SC install.
After replacing the MAF and idle stabilizer, the problem continued.
Turned out that my throttle cable assembly was too tight and didn't close the throttle completely.
Make sure you either restet the car with the hammer or simply disconnect the battery for a while and let it readjust after changing any parameters.
After replacing the MAF and idle stabilizer, the problem continued.
Turned out that my throttle cable assembly was too tight and didn't close the throttle completely.
Make sure you either restet the car with the hammer or simply disconnect the battery for a while and let it readjust after changing any parameters.
02-17-2006, 12:11 AM
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Kick me when I'm down!
Well guys it looks like my initial post was correct! It IS the worst! My first thrust bearing test was good about .010 but that was done by placing the gauge on the crank shaft pulley, sliding under the car and prying on the flywheel (easier place to pry) getting out from under the car and taking the reading. When my friend (Pizza) came over I had him watch the dial gauge when I pried it both ways and held it............. .056............. I'm OUT! 
02-17-2006, 12:29 AM
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Sorry to hear this. Don't do anything rash for a week or two then figure out what to do.Oh, and a few of these
will help the problem short term.
Originally Posted by FeedNfrenZ
Well guys it looks like my initial post was correct! It IS the worst! My first thrust bearing test was good about .010 but that was done by placing the gauge on the crank shaft pulley, sliding under the car and prying on the flywheel (easier place to pry) getting out from under the car and taking the reading. When my friend (Pizza) came over I had him watch the dial gauge when I pried it both ways and held it............. .056............. I'm OUT!
02-17-2006, 01:44 AM
#88
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Brent, that may have only just started kissing the block with the counterweights. Definitely keep your parts options open, but get in there and have a look before you spend wads of $$$. You haven't found piles of aluminum shavings. As I understand it the block is NOT wasted unless the block surface under the thrust face of the TB has worn.
02-17-2006, 01:56 AM
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Talking with Pizza tonight we realized that after Katrina we towed it to a trans. shop that my friend owns and drained all the fluids, refilled it ran it and drain then refilled it again. Since then I have little to no milles on it so all bets are off on the metal shavings issue!
02-17-2006, 02:48 AM
#90
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Originally Posted by FeedNfrenZ
Talking with Pizza tonight we realized that after Katrina we towed it to a trans. shop that my friend owns and drained all the fluids, refilled it ran it and drain then refilled it again. Since then I have little to no milles on it so all bets are off on the metal shavings issue!
