cfc928gt

I know the WSM wants the water pump put on using just the gasket and no additional sealer but I thought I'd ask for opinions from those who have BTDT. The WP I pulled off didn't have any sealer and the bolts were in pretty bad shape so I was thinking of using some Ultra Blue on each side.

Garth S

I've installed the gaskets dry and used anti-seize on fresh bolts and clean bore holes - no leaks.

heinrich

seal it

Bill Ball

They are dry from the factory. However, based on prompting from others, I have used Yamabond. This is a non-drying sealer that is easy to clean off with brake cleaner when it comes time to change the WP again. Mine has been leak-free, but then so was the factory pump witha dry gasket at 95K miles when I replaced it.

cfc928gt

I have some Yamabond left over from my oil pan gasket. In fact after reading all the posts to my tensioner thread I decided to use it on the tensioner gasket. Looks like a winner for the WP as well. Nice matching color with aluminum vs the Ultra Blue...

heinrich

CF, I have to disagree. I think the red of the permatex gasket maker offets very nicely on the block's aluminium and for the tensioner I mixed a tad of playdoh to get a slight orange hue to match the harmonic balancer. For the waterpump I decided to not do the blue thing, it really is so 60's .... it's just not done anymore, so I selected a very nice jet black aircraft pump sealer, also Permatex, to downplay the harsh casting effects of the pump, nd the gold resprayed pump roller (incidentally next pump job that roller's gonna get a nice fresh coat of Big Red caliper coating )

borland

Please tell us what page in the WSM it says "no additional sealer".

The original factory gasket was asbestos. Asbestos makes an excellent gasket material that usually requires no sealant. Unfortunately, asbestos water pump gaskets are no longer available.

The problem with using surface sealants like Ultra Blue (RTV) or gasket dressing (Halomar), is that the gasket material will usually weep coolant causing corrosion of the pump fasteners.

A better choice of sealant, is a solvent based sealant which will penetrate the gasket and make the gasket impervious to coolant. Permatex High Tack Gasket sealant (98H or 98D) or Permatex High Tack Spray-A-Gasket sealant (99GA or 99MA) are excellent products.

http://www.permatex.com/images/catal...20Permatex.pdf

borland
90' S4, Slate Metallic

cfc928gt

Heinrich, LOL! Openned myself up to that one didn't I.

Borland, you're right in that is doesn't specify 'no sealer', it just sayes to replace gasket and doesn't mention using a sealer. Thanks for your insight into the original asbestos sealing characteristics, I didn't know that. Great info on the high tack and why that would be superior as well, very helpful.

GlenL

Dry unless there is corrosion pitting or other damage to the sealing surfaces.

G Man

Not sure if suitable for this application, but " the right stuff " by Permatex is some bad-*** stuff. My National Guard unit went to Camp Dodge near Des Moines Iowa a couple years ago to rebuild Hum-Vee engines for service repalcements. MIL Spec calls for it in place of oil pan and valve cover gaskets and it definitely gets the job done!

heinrich

Seriously I use Permatex nonhardening black stuff. Very effective.

just bill

Hey guys, splane somethin to me, what is Yamabond? I know about the blue stuff and the brown stuff and indian head. But not Yamabond. In a few weeks the rebuild begins after the the clean up and the machine shop finishes the heads. I will be starting by replacing the oil pan gasket, then re-rebuilding the tensioner. I am a little amiss when it comes to P-cars, however when I pulled my oil pan the bolts were a little more than finger tight, 97k+/- on them, wouldn't any of the thread sealers work to keep them from loosening??? I noticed in the manual there are different types of sealants then I have worked with in the past, are these available in America or are they only in Germany and are some American substitites available.

thanks

bill

FlyingDog

Yamabond (Yamaha) and Hondabond (Honda) are just proprietary brands of sealants. They're probably made by Permatex or other major brands, but to different standards.

Jim, good luck getting your waterpump back off if you use The Right Stuff. I know people who use that on diff housings for rockcrawlers. They generally plan on destroying the diff cover when they remove it unless it's a really heavy duty armored one.

Bill Ball

Yamabond is available from Yamaha dealers. I actually use Threebond 1104, bought online. It appears functionally identical to Yamabond and motorcycle guys use them interchangeably. Rumor has it that Threebond makes Yamabond and all the motorcycle bond sealants.

Here's a source for either...

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/index.as...D&ProdID=17084

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/index.as...D&ProdID=19229

Bill Ball

Right Stuff is soluble in carb cleaner, but it is probably still a harder cleanup than Yamabond/Threebond/Hondabond.