The Twin Screw Thread
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Bill, Rick
Thanks again for the instructions. We are carefully plodding along and have a couple of additional questions for all you Twinscrew gurus.
1. We all have 87-89 cars so we are going to use the pre 87 fpr. It has a barb fitting on the bottom and ours have a ballseal. Is there a stock replacement hose or do we need to make our own?
2. We do not have hosing for the passenger side cam cover breather. The instruction show basically the vents connected by a hose with a separator in between. Should we try to duplicate this or is there a better way?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks again for the instructions. We are carefully plodding along and have a couple of additional questions for all you Twinscrew gurus.
1. We all have 87-89 cars so we are going to use the pre 87 fpr. It has a barb fitting on the bottom and ours have a ballseal. Is there a stock replacement hose or do we need to make our own?
2. We do not have hosing for the passenger side cam cover breather. The instruction show basically the vents connected by a hose with a separator in between. Should we try to duplicate this or is there a better way?
Thanks in advance.
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Go with an adjustable or stock regulator, bigger injectors, 044 pump, stock fuel pressure setting and a Sharktune. Setting a lower fuel pressure to compesntate for bigger injectors at idle is a bandaid approach as is jacking up the fuel pressure under boost. It does work but its nice running the injectors and the cars fuel system at its rated and designed fuel pressure.
Ive gone through, 19, 24, 30lb injectors at various fuel pressures. Im now at 42 lb injectors and Stock fuel pressure via a Sharktune.. Its the way to go.
BTDT is all I gotta say about that.
As far as Venting, the key is to allow the oil filler neck/breather to breath. It has the largest available area to use....so try and utilize it. I have a seperator and baffle system built into my filler neck area that vents out to the vents on the pax side cam cover. From there it all joins and hits one common seperator with a 1" intake and outport that dumps over board....not a drop!
Ive gone through, 19, 24, 30lb injectors at various fuel pressures. Im now at 42 lb injectors and Stock fuel pressure via a Sharktune.. Its the way to go.
BTDT is all I gotta say about that.
As far as Venting, the key is to allow the oil filler neck/breather to breath. It has the largest available area to use....so try and utilize it. I have a seperator and baffle system built into my filler neck area that vents out to the vents on the pax side cam cover. From there it all joins and hits one common seperator with a 1" intake and outport that dumps over board....not a drop!
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From: Central Ohio
Bill, Rick
Thanks again for the instructions. We are carefully plodding along and have a couple of additional questions for all you Twinscrew gurus.
1. We all have 87-89 cars so we are going to use the pre 87 fpr. It has a barb fitting on the bottom and ours have a ballseal. Is there a stock replacement hose or do we need to make our own?
2. We do not have hosing for the passenger side cam cover breather. The instruction show basically the vents connected by a hose with a separator in between. Should we try to duplicate this or is there a better way?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks again for the instructions. We are carefully plodding along and have a couple of additional questions for all you Twinscrew gurus.
1. We all have 87-89 cars so we are going to use the pre 87 fpr. It has a barb fitting on the bottom and ours have a ballseal. Is there a stock replacement hose or do we need to make our own?
2. We do not have hosing for the passenger side cam cover breather. The instruction show basically the vents connected by a hose with a separator in between. Should we try to duplicate this or is there a better way?
Thanks in advance.
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From: Cambridge England
Suggest you ask "a friend" on RL with access to a SahrkTuner to make you a 30# LH chip.
Then the car will idle fine with stock fuel pressure, and get you on the road. Suggest you also request they also make you an EZK chip with 5 deg taken out on the WOT map from 2500rpm to redline for safety, rather than relying on the knock control system to get you out of trouble with detonation.
Later on get yourself a full SharkTune session....
Then the car will idle fine with stock fuel pressure, and get you on the road. Suggest you also request they also make you an EZK chip with 5 deg taken out on the WOT map from 2500rpm to redline for safety, rather than relying on the knock control system to get you out of trouble with detonation.
Later on get yourself a full SharkTune session....
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Bill, Rick
Thanks again for the instructions. We are carefully plodding along and have a couple of additional questions for all you Twinscrew gurus.
1. We all have 87-89 cars so we are going to use the pre 87 fpr. It has a barb fitting on the bottom and ours have a ballseal. Is there a stock replacement hose or do we need to make our own?
2. We do not have hosing for the passenger side cam cover breather. The instruction show basically the vents connected by a hose with a separator in between. Should we try to duplicate this or is there a better way?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks again for the instructions. We are carefully plodding along and have a couple of additional questions for all you Twinscrew gurus.
1. We all have 87-89 cars so we are going to use the pre 87 fpr. It has a barb fitting on the bottom and ours have a ballseal. Is there a stock replacement hose or do we need to make our own?
2. We do not have hosing for the passenger side cam cover breather. The instruction show basically the vents connected by a hose with a separator in between. Should we try to duplicate this or is there a better way?
Thanks in advance.
2. I used Andy's hose assembly for the passenger side. I'm not sure what's in that "separator" - maybe just stuffed with scrubber pads. On my car that vents to atmosphere with a long hose that I ran down the rear of engine compartment and tie-wrapped to the frame rail. You should have a catch-can but my car has never blown a drop out of that hose even when cruising at 165 MPH. The vent from Andy's tiny oil filler is the one that caused me problems, blowing out gobs of oil at high speed. It had the same "separator" in-line.
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Under the Lift
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Sharktune would help if you go up in the boost range, but I think it's not going to do much for the base kit you are installing.
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If you have the entire kit and installing the BEGI, the 30's will work fine. I know Tony's ran awesome with them although he was running 10lbs boost.
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^ what Darien said. You will be fine, with either 24, 30 lbs injectors. Heck many of us have made and still make over 400 rwhp with these injectors and tweeking fuel pressures. Its once you see what a Sharktuner can do for you you realize there is a better way.
That better way is being able to keep the stock 55-57psi fuel pressure....mine still gets bumped another 5psi for good measure.
That better way is being able to keep the stock 55-57psi fuel pressure....mine still gets bumped another 5psi for good measure.
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Here is my approach to the oil and vent issue....I can tell you that it is as perfect a solution as we are likely to get after running nearly 4 full hours of track time at Mid Ohio last week.
To start is the oil baffle, you will need to take the crank cover that was supplied in the kit and use the basic baffle (picture below) as a starting point. The 90 degree elbow with the original kit is under sized and it needs to be replaced with a 90 degree that will accept a 1 inch inside diameter hose.
To start is the oil baffle, you will need to take the crank cover that was supplied in the kit and use the basic baffle (picture below) as a starting point. The 90 degree elbow with the original kit is under sized and it needs to be replaced with a 90 degree that will accept a 1 inch inside diameter hose.
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The Andy Keel kit required you to fill the oil through a terrible little hose T'd into the oil vent line. I found a nice looking oil filler neck and grafted it to the driver side valve cover. I am pulling fresh air into this side of the motor in an effort to flush out the contaminants. There is a 0 pressure check valve in place with a pickup filter in the high pressure area below the windshield...additional picture below.
I ran the discharge line from the Provent into a catch can in the driver side fender well just to be safe ...but after two full track days there was not a single drop of oil.....so I have now placed the discharge line into the low pressure area under the car in order (with a v shaped cut on the end) to provide additional vacuum draw through the provent
So to summarize we are pulling crank case ventilation from a 1 inch line plus the 2-3/8 line from the passenger side. I'm running 10 PSI boost for very long sustained pulls and no smoke and no oil in the catch can.
Posting part 3 ------fresh air to driver side.
I ran the discharge line from the Provent into a catch can in the driver side fender well just to be safe ...but after two full track days there was not a single drop of oil.....so I have now placed the discharge line into the low pressure area under the car in order (with a v shaped cut on the end) to provide additional vacuum draw through the provent
So to summarize we are pulling crank case ventilation from a 1 inch line plus the 2-3/8 line from the passenger side. I'm running 10 PSI boost for very long sustained pulls and no smoke and no oil in the catch can.
Posting part 3 ------fresh air to driver side.
Last edited by Vlocity; Aug 1, 2008 at 09:05 AM. Reason: updated routing
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I'd be remiss not to tell you all that I'm not that smart....Louie Ott gave me a LOT of great advice.
So the last piece of the puzzel is to introduce fresh air into the driver side valve cover.
I placed a small filter in the high pressure area beneath the windshield and found a zero cracking pressure check valve to put in the line. At speed, fresh air is inducted through the line into the oil filler vent on the driver side. The line is also elevated, so if there is a random event where oil creeps up the line or the check valve closes, the oil will drain back into the valve cover.
So the last piece of the puzzel is to introduce fresh air into the driver side valve cover.
I placed a small filter in the high pressure area beneath the windshield and found a zero cracking pressure check valve to put in the line. At speed, fresh air is inducted through the line into the oil filler vent on the driver side. The line is also elevated, so if there is a random event where oil creeps up the line or the check valve closes, the oil will drain back into the valve cover.
Last edited by Vlocity; Aug 1, 2008 at 09:06 AM. Reason: updated routing
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Ok...since I'm hogging this thread I might as well show you the best part.
Since I had my intake off to fix the undersized oil outlet and install the baffle, I decided to install a knock sensor on the engine. (MY 1985) and add a "Vampire". http://www.jandssafeguard.com/
This is a stock 928 S4 sensor placed in the center tapped location in the middle of the V. This center location does not interfere with my manifold. I pulled the "plug" that was in the center and then tapped it for the correct bolt.
The J & S Safeguard "Vampire" sees boost and allows me to take out 0 to 2 degrees of timing for every pound of boost it sees. This was a selling point all on it's own. The electronics also sense the knock, it knows that the last cylinder that fired was the one that knocked and will pull up to 20 degrees of timing from all cylinders or just the cylinder that knocked before it fires again.
I had been running 7 -8 pounds of boost with just the low octane loop plugged together as my timing retard. Now I am running 10 pounds of boost with the loop unplugged (stock timing). I have the system set to moderate sensitivity to detect knock with individual cylinder retard. It pulls a little over 1 degree of timing for each pound of boost with no delay. (pulls the first degree of timing with just 1 psi...this is also adjustable) The only addition to my 93 octane fuel was 1 bottle of Amsoil octane booster per 15 gallons of fuel so I am at 95-96 octane while on track.
As you can see in my "supercharged 928 @ Mid Ohio thread" I'm not really taking it easy on anything.
I couldn't be happier with the results....
Ken
Since I had my intake off to fix the undersized oil outlet and install the baffle, I decided to install a knock sensor on the engine. (MY 1985) and add a "Vampire". http://www.jandssafeguard.com/
This is a stock 928 S4 sensor placed in the center tapped location in the middle of the V. This center location does not interfere with my manifold. I pulled the "plug" that was in the center and then tapped it for the correct bolt.
The J & S Safeguard "Vampire" sees boost and allows me to take out 0 to 2 degrees of timing for every pound of boost it sees. This was a selling point all on it's own. The electronics also sense the knock, it knows that the last cylinder that fired was the one that knocked and will pull up to 20 degrees of timing from all cylinders or just the cylinder that knocked before it fires again.
I had been running 7 -8 pounds of boost with just the low octane loop plugged together as my timing retard. Now I am running 10 pounds of boost with the loop unplugged (stock timing). I have the system set to moderate sensitivity to detect knock with individual cylinder retard. It pulls a little over 1 degree of timing for each pound of boost with no delay. (pulls the first degree of timing with just 1 psi...this is also adjustable) The only addition to my 93 octane fuel was 1 bottle of Amsoil octane booster per 15 gallons of fuel so I am at 95-96 octane while on track.
As you can see in my "supercharged 928 @ Mid Ohio thread" I'm not really taking it easy on anything.
I couldn't be happier with the results....
Ken
Last edited by Vlocity; Oct 25, 2008 at 10:46 AM.