Stuck Throttle (in the Mountain Twisties, no less!)
10-03-2005, 11:34 PM
#16
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A stuck throttle shouldn't be a dangerous situation, should it? Just immediately shift into neutral and turn the engine off. Leave the key in the "on" position so you're steering column doesn't lock. No puckering required.
10-03-2005, 11:40 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by 911Dave
A stuck throttle shouldn't be a dangerous situation, should it? Just immediately shift into neutral and turn the engine off. Leave the key in the "on" position so you're steering column doesn't lock. No puckering required.
Under most other circumstances, you're right -- it probably wouldn't be all that big a deal.
10-03-2005, 11:44 PM
#18
Gluteus Maximus
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Originally Posted by 911Dave
A stuck throttle shouldn't be a dangerous situation, should it? Just immediately shift into neutral and turn the engine off. Leave the key in the "on" position so you're steering column doesn't lock. No puckering required.
10-04-2005, 12:01 AM
#19
If you look at the sheeth part of the throttle cable you will see a part number (I'm holding both of mine in my hand). Replace that piece by whole I would suggest. Those litle plastic thingys are the dangerous piece at the ages these cars are. Thats what sticks. Also, on S4s, there is such a convoluted manner by which the throttle movement happens, it could be the wheel thing under the intake filter for the engine.
Originally Posted by Ed Scherer
Thanks for the replies so far, guys. Still waiting for answers or comments on some of my original questions, though. I'm getting a lot of answers (and entertaining related stories!) to question 1, but nothing on the rest.
- Has anyone else experienced a stuck throttle like this? Did it take anything beyond just lubricating the ball/socket connections? Any preferred lube? (keep comments coming on this one, if you'd like, but you've already told me a lot on this one)
- Note that the little rubbery, amber-colored, conically-shaped guide that used to be on my accelerator pedal cable split into a few pieces and eventually fell off (see the second photo below for the remains). Is this an individually replaceable part? (Hard to see how you could replace it unless it's really stretchy, unless you recrimp the end of the cable). Is this an important part? Is there much of a risk of increased wear (or sticking cable or something) if I don't replace it?
- Note that the black plastic, conically-shaped guide that used to be on my A/T kickdown cable is also broken off (you can still see a little fragment of the remains, though). Is this an individually replaceable part? (Again, hard to see how you could replace it without recrimping the end of the cable). Important part, or not? Risky to run without it, or not?
- Generally, what is the condition of these guides on your car? The remaining guides on my car look like they're not going to last much longer. Starting to split and disintegrate.
10-04-2005, 12:05 AM
#20
Originally Posted by Ed Scherer
At WOT, though, I wonder what would happen if you immediately take the load off?
Thats reving to redline, then bouncing back and forth between 6000 and 6500rpm.
10-04-2005, 08:24 AM
#21
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The actual problem we had in the Yellow Beast was a frayed throttle cable which had almost 100,000 miles on it... lesson: Replace the cable if you have a lot of miles to be safe.
10-04-2005, 12:30 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
Follow the path of the cable from the quadrant around the pulley to the body. There is a bracket right next to the pulley that can catch the cable if there is any slack.
10-04-2005, 01:14 PM
#23
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On my '85, last winter, had the radiator hose off, the one to the right as you face engine. When I put the hose and clamp back on, probably for a better angle, I positioned the clamp further toward the top of the hose -- looked OK. After I started it, I blipped the throttle, it went near WOT and stuck. What a beast, scared the crap out of me. Cut the engine with key and went to look for WTF happened. That hose clamp will bind the throttle socket if it isn't just so. We always look for stray wrenches and loose connections, when starting up, right? Lesson -- after moving stuff or removing anything, check that moving parts do not bind, especially something like throttle linkage. 
