I have had the Griffiths Kit for going on3 years. No leaks and everything works like a charm.
I bought it from 928 specialists for a tad under what Griffith's sells it for. Around $700 as I recall.

 

Longevity of 134a drop in. Lets take my friends 87 Mustang GT. In 1995 he dropped 134a, he replaced the cause of the leek. 1 o ring,,,, and as of last Tuesday he still has cold air. He couldn't replace anything else, the car wasn't worth the price of a new compressor,,,but he still likes to drive it.

yep, 3 world venting, Fabs\chip manufactuers. I would see 18 wheelers with R12 roll pasted my window when I couldn't find a can for my 89. But they had a license to use it, right a license.

If your car is in a Hot climate you got to have the AC. Case and point my 90GT in SF hasn't had the AC working since 97.

To quote,, I agree 1981. ," I Like/Love AC" I want to convert my center vent to oscillate.

 

In most, if not all states here in the USA, it is illegal to refill a cars A/C system with known leaks.

The A/C gage sets just aren't good enough to be able to see how well the vacuum pump is pulling and maintaining the vacuum before refilling. Also, without a deep vacuum, significant amounts of water will remain in the system. What's needed is a thermister vacuum gage like this one...

http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?r...-64&Nav=preg07

or this one

http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?r...-60&Nav=preg07

borland

 

Also I have heard a AC mechanic state that mixing the two can lead to corrosive results and will eventually eat a whole somewhere in the system. Best to flush it out and the drier bottle is pretty easy to change, and if it were me I would change all the seals too. R134 is not compatible with the R12 seals, although the German variety might work better.

Also its not that difficult to vac the system. Just go find an old refrigerator pump and use that. Mine pulls down to about 27in.

 

Installed 11 months ago. Still going strong. It's not as cold as the original R12 system was at idle, probably due to the larger pulley. But under all other conditions, it works great. My AC went out during the SATL gathering, but it was just a relay.

 

What you need to remove the water is a pressure <1000 microns.

That's equivalent to 0.0193 psi or 0.039 inches of mercury. So 27 inches of 29 inches (1 atm) from your refrigerator pump just won't do it satisfactorily.

borland

 

Thank you everyone for the information and replies. As I said previously, I didn’t think this would damage anything I wasn’t already planning to replace. I was surprised to learn that an acidic reaction could occur and damage things that I didn’t . It is my plan that this will be a short term fix. I only need it until I get my POS daily driver (Eagle Talon) back in service. I am planning to pull the engine (on the 928) this summer to replace all seals and fix my leaking head gaskets. I will fix the A/C properly then. The price of the conversion kit doesn’t sound bad at all. The A/C clutch failed on my Talon last year, and the cheapest replacement I could find was around $600.00.

 

$600 for an A/C clutch? Jeez, I thought we had it bad.

 

The $600.00 was actually for a remanufactured compressor, but yeah I thought that was steep as well. I compared prices for normal replacement parts (95 Talon vs. 1980 928) before I bought the car. I found that many of the prices to be the same or better for the 928. I'm going to get rid of the Talon and get something else.

 

Does anyone know how much refrigerant a system witth no rear ac is supposed to take?

 

The sticker on my hood says 33 oz, 37 with rear.

 

Can anyone explain what vaccumming down an A/C system is? I get it conceptually, but how specifically do you do it, and what do you capture the refrigerant in? Both my sharks have faulty A/C, and both are still the R-12 it looks like, so I have some work to do to get them up and operational...

Bill

 

Thanks Steve

 

So .... I went out there and looked my '85US over. Turning ac on makes no idle difference. Nor any other. On the compressor, the belt pulls the pulley along but the front part (turns by hand) does not turn on its own. Fuse is good. So ... can I just test for electrical sigal there? If it's there I assume the clutch is history or maybe the electronics of the compressor?

 

Should be no electronics in the compressor. If you give it 12V to the clutch it should engage. If the idle is not changing you're probably not getting 12V to the clutch though.