Carl Fausett

Just bringing out this new product now.

I have It all worked out as a kit, including the nuts 'n bolts and mounts and drop links and EVERYTHING. The prototype is installed and works very well.

If your 928 suffers from "plow" or understeer in hard cornering, or if you just get too much body lean for your liking, or you want to add more "throttle steer" back into your car - this'll do it. Porsche upgraded the 26mm sway bar found in 1977-79 to 28mm in 1980-95; but there is no substitute for the performance gains a 32mm front sway bar will give you. And although a swaybar will provide stiffer cornering... it does so without changing the ride characteristics in normal driving.


The Bar: Drawn from a single piece of 4130 alloy tubular steel - lighter than solid sway bars and just as strong - with 3 separate mounting positions for the drop links built into them. The center hole of the 3 is where your current drop link point is now, and you can select a softer or stronger setting than that by moving the mount inward or outward. These are Mandrel-bent for us with no necking-down of the sway bar at the critical attachment arms like the stock product.


The Drop Links: Our drop links are not made from industrial rod ends, but actually design-built for automotive racing. The rod ends are spherical alloy steel within aluminum housings with HD thread bosses.


The Hardware: The bolts provided are new 12mm metric grade 8.8 hardware, with Nylock vibration-resistant locknuts. The spacers provided are T-304 Stainless steel. Top quality everywhere.


The Mounts: These are factory-new greaseable polyurethane swaybar bushings with a zirk fitting in the top for easy maintenance. High hystorisis, special polyurethane molded with grease-grabbing pockets to allow smooth and correct swaybar movement.


Easy Installation: We provide all the hardware you need, the mounts, the brackets, installation photos, EVERYTHING.

I priced it within reach at $429 for everything. $28 for shipping in the continental US should get it done. I do not have it in our catalog yet - it is our eBay store now, and will be in our catalogs in the next coupla days if you are interested.

bcdavis

Awesome Carl!

Vilhuer

Looks really good.

Will you be doing some product to beaf up body in area where front bar mounts?

drnick

carl, youre killing me! ive only just installed ott droplinks in the 88!!! wanted a swaybar but couldnt find one anywhere and just gave up looking...

Shane

Carl have you notice the need to reinforce the mounting bracket on the frame? Would adding a stiffer bar and droplinks accelerate failure of these brackets?

Thanks

Carl Fausett

Your concerns about the gauge of the metal used for those polyurethane sway bar bushings is valid. I spoke tio the manufacturer and got the "we have thousands of these out there with no problem" answer I was expecting. And their polyurethane bushing is better than all others I inspected for this project - so its worth the extra effort below.

Our stiffer bar will transmit more force across those sway bar mounts. At this time, we provide case-hardened extra-strength steel load disbursing washers to clamp them down and in place. They will not be twisting at the bolt heads on the mounts.

But - to prevent them from twisting in the center of the sway bar mounts - I am manufacturing a different mount strap specific to the 928 that will be much stronger. I should have that done within the month.

Carl Fausett

I should add - the case-hardened mounting washers can be seen in the picture posted.

Have had the swaybar driven in a spirited fashion on the street for a while now without any problem with bending the polyurethane mounts. BUT - I have not raced it yet - and for me and my racer friends, I am making an over-clamp that will reinforce that mount so there just is no chance of the mount twisting at all.

Thanks for your input.

Bill Ball

I guess this would help, but it's the bracket itself that breaks, not the strap, right? Distributing the load sounds good, but ultimately the bracket and the bracket weld is too weak for the total load unless you can distribute it beyond the bracket. Some type of reinforcement for the bracket that could be bolted on is needed.... (see Carl's thinking gears turning). Great job on the bar.

BC

nick -

this bar, I think, could easily be made to work with the ott drop links - and my reasoning is that you could simply remake the red end boxes to fit around this bar. Then you could have the adjustability AND the thicker bar.

That seems like a good idea to me.

bd0nalds0n

I thought that if you wanted to reduce understeer and increase oversteer, you would do so by tightening up the rear, not the front. I found that after I added Ott links on the rear, that my plowing tendency was reduced.

drnick

brendan, from what i see i think this bar is ajustable anyhow and will render the droplinks superfluous if you want to increase roll resistance.

carl, from what ive read of other swaybars on the 928 its not the metal over the poly bushes that bends but the welded steel section from the frame rails on the car that breaks off!

Shane

Here is Kim Crumb's take on it and his suggested fix.


Let's start with the actual mode of failure. The sway
bar mount is only sheet metal, and it's being flexed
with big tires, etc...and it eventually cracks. The
design must keep that specific mounting area from
being flexed. (Which is why working on the "back" of
the triangle does very little...except to make future
repairs difficult!) The easiest way is extend what I'm
going to call the threaded mounting boss, which is the
threaded portion of the (angled) mount. Once it's
welded up to the frame rail directly it can't "wiggle
around" nearly as much...the flexing is greatly
dimishing, the cracking gone..I've seen absolutely NO
failures with this arrangment in place.
So you use a short, hollow tube. The inner diameter
must be large enough so the bolt can go inside it (it
sticks through the threaded mounting boss...the outer
diameter should approximate the outside diameter of
the mounting boss (threaded area.) It's a flat 90
degree cut on the end where it contacts the mount, so
the bolt can still go straight up the middle...that
leaves it angled where it contacts the frame rail. A
little custom grinding may be in order, to get it
perfect for each car. You will need to disconnect all
the computers, especially the engine brain
boxes...they are very sensitive. I know most welders
don't do that, and the car usually gets out the door
still running, anyway. Later? The record on that
isn't good. (That task of disconnecting and
reconnecting usually takes longer than the actual
welding work...use the "3-D" map in the electrical
part of the shop manual, its' very good a giving the
locations for all these!) A good welder can do this
work, quickly even, and if you don't get absolutely
every millimeter all the way at the front, (which is a
bit difficult) it probably isn't necessary. I had them
put on body schutz when they were done and then paint
it. So? This way you don't devalue the car with the
work...it is nearly invisible (since doing just the
"top" one has been completely sufficient.) If you do
a good job, with the plan I describe, it looks the
factory would have done it...in the RSR version! Hope
that answers the questions, please let me know! Kim

Carl Fausett

It will work with OTT drop links - you just do not use the red thingee that Louie made to move the attachement point back so the bar would act like a bigger bar.

A: ours IS a bigger bar and doesn't have to "act" like it
B: we already have 3 mounitng positions for the drop links.

again, you can use the Ott steel drop link, they will work fine - you just dicard the red adapter at the end.

Blown Beast

Very nice Carl....Price?

sharkmeister85

In the fine print....
Glenn