I have seen one and see these are for sale by reputable shops also.

The casting is rough.
It's German.
Mine was brand new
It's a bit heavier
Mine seized in a few miles (granted, the way this engine was assembled, it absolutely stressed the components to the max, with the tensioner at max ... so not really fair to blame the pump)
edit: Has steel impeller

Thoughts on this pump?

 

I honestly think that the water pumps ARE going to be an issue soon unless someone starts making good ones again. I'm probably going to source another one and see how they rebuild them. LASO doesn't sound familar.

 

One local source has been selling them for long time. They sure look rough but many have used them without major problems.

 

We try to avoid the LASO pumps. Ask Kibort about his experience. He had one fail before the car got off the hoist.

 

Maybe time to revist the electric waterpump?
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/40331-electric-water-pump.html
In the last 2 years maybe there are some better kits out there.

 

i wish ...

 

You would still need that shaft and pulley in place for the T-belt. Also, as a general rule of thumb, whatever horsepower gains you may realize by removing an accessory like the WP from the list of crank-driven accessories will be offset to some degree by the extra horsepower required by the alternator to generate the electricity. Sometimes you end up with a net loss. YMMV.

 

I'd give up 5hp to have no pump running on my valve train

 

ditto

 

So you'd have to weld up a waterpump core so that it seals the shaft away from water.... but you would still have a bearing there that could fail. Also, the way the cooling is arranged on these motors you would have a real fun time trying to plumb in the electric pump in a way that still circulates water within the block during warmup. Hey, nothing wrong with dreaming though...

 

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...aso+water+pump

 

I have been told that Laso is the current waterpump manufacturer to Porsche?

/Peter

 

What about the mittelmotor pumps..? Any digs on these..? They are available in Germany for about 100 Euro...

Not recommending them, as I have never used or bought one... Just throwing it out there...

You can find them on

www.Ebay.de

Cheers,

 

I don't think it's be that hard. You'd just grind off the impeller (maybe leave a little disc of metal so the shaft stays in the housing) and then put it back on. If you're woried about the bearing then you could just press another bearing (maybe a bullet-proof roller bearing) on the shaft outside and put the T-belt pulley on it. That way you'd have a double bearing - if for some reason the outside bearing froze up it still spin the stub of the impeller.

And the plumbing shouldn't be too bad either. Just block off the thermostat so the water always circulates thru the radiator and then put the electric pump in the lower radiator hose. The temperature controller dials the pump back to a minimum flow when the engine is cold. It might take a little longer to warm up, but probably not much.

The horsepower drag should always be better with an electric pump. The belt driven water pump has to be sized for the worst case cooling situation - stop and go traffic in the heat - and any other time it's overkill. In particular the hardest cooling for the stock pump must be going from WOT down to idle - there's still heat to be carried away but low coolant flow at idle. But the electric pump can operate at max flow at idle no problem.

Even worse is going from WOT to engine off (hopefully nobody does this very often). The electric pump could have a timer to run for a few minutes after shutoff, or until the temps dropped.

We just need someone who's willing to risk their block and heads for the good of the rest of us. I might be up for it if I can find a kit that has most of the details worked out (don't have a lot of time for fiddling). The kit mentioned previously seemed to get some bad press.

 

I do understand that in this case there would probably be a net RWHP gain but you're still talking about an added drain on the electrical system. IMHO you would defeat the purpose of the whole exercise if you still had the spinning shaft in contact with the coolant, with all of the implied sealing issues. Also, I personally don't like the idea of running without a t-stat and stopping water flow at colder temps. These motors were engineered with the assumption that there would always be water flow while running, especially during warmup... the idea being to warm it up evenly. Also, the t-stat meters water flow through the radiator. What do you suppose would happen if you were driving on a cold day, had the engine nice and warm, but no water flow... then the electrical pump triggers and shoots a big slug of cold water from the radiator into the block? If you care to try such a thing, more power to you. I love to cheer people on when they put their own blood and sweat into trying to evolve these beasts. In this particular case I'm thinking that for my purposes, it just wouldn't be worth the effort or risk.