928 Keys cut from a photograph
03-31-2005, 01:53 AM
#61
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Wanted- busted ignition lock cylinder(s)
Hi, this is Stuart the keys guy in Australia.
Interesting to tune into the discussion and very heartening to see so much good feedback for my keys for 928.
I've been pulling apart some old locks this past week to see if I can improve our cutting by knowing the locks more intimately ("know the enemy" you might say!).
Unfortunately I omitted to acquire an ignition lock, I've got all doors locks (with and without alarm). If anybody has an ignition lock cylinder that's not serviceable (broken by a car theft attempt or suchlike) I'd be happy to exchange it for a new pair of keys. (It will cost you under $10 to ship a lock cylinder to me).
I can be contacted at sales@keys4classics.com
By they way I took up the suggestion to inquire about sponsorship of the 928 list but so far have got no reply.
Greetings from Canberra, Australia --Stuart
Interesting to tune into the discussion and very heartening to see so much good feedback for my keys for 928.
I've been pulling apart some old locks this past week to see if I can improve our cutting by knowing the locks more intimately ("know the enemy" you might say!).
Unfortunately I omitted to acquire an ignition lock, I've got all doors locks (with and without alarm). If anybody has an ignition lock cylinder that's not serviceable (broken by a car theft attempt or suchlike) I'd be happy to exchange it for a new pair of keys. (It will cost you under $10 to ship a lock cylinder to me).
I can be contacted at sales@keys4classics.com
By they way I took up the suggestion to inquire about sponsorship of the 928 list but so far have got no reply.
Greetings from Canberra, Australia --Stuart
03-31-2005, 02:18 AM
#62
928 Collector
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Stuart, from what I understand you guys kick a$$ in that you provide a reasonably-priced and excellent service. Thanks Mate, from a Springbok to an All Black 
, 
I can get you an ignition lock if you don't find one before a couple of days.
Heinrich
, I can get you an ignition lock if you don't find one before a couple of days.
Heinrich
03-31-2005, 09:51 AM
#63
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Stuart,
I have one you can have.
It can go in the mail today.
Same address as your web site?
Roger
I have one you can have.
It can go in the mail today.
Same address as your web site?
Roger
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
03-31-2005, 10:52 AM
#64
Rennlist Member
Hi there.
Realize this, that with the tumbler set ups in the 928 for every set distance there are only 5 options I believe (number 1-5) possible, so even by looking at a keep and tumbler disassembled, it is rather easy to fix and put back together. With a good pictures, they have absolutely no problem determining clearances on the key to activate that tumbler.
Good luck. I don 't suspect that there will be an Australian 928 theft rign opening up soon.
Realize this, that with the tumbler set ups in the 928 for every set distance there are only 5 options I believe (number 1-5) possible, so even by looking at a keep and tumbler disassembled, it is rather easy to fix and put back together. With a good pictures, they have absolutely no problem determining clearances on the key to activate that tumbler.
Good luck. I don 't suspect that there will be an Australian 928 theft rign opening up soon.
03-31-2005, 11:06 AM
#65
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Garrity does this apply to alarm keys too? I have a car with ONLY the valet key. Do you foresee a way to make the alarm key for that car, with no original?
03-31-2005, 01:46 PM
#66
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Keys are great, only one small problem.
Hey Stuart! Glad to see you on the boards. Hopefully we'll see "sponsor" next to your name soon. 
This is not a dig on the keys, I love them and they work perfectly on the doors and ignition, something you'd never expect from keys cut off a photo. Nice to have the original in the fire safe and I didn't have to worry about my only original getting lost while traveling everywhere. This is more of a "how to" or "will this work" if you have the problem I have with the keys not opening the hatch.
The key goes in the hatch lock just fine, but will not turn. No big deal with it since I only use the key when the battery is disconnected when I work on the car. When I looked at the keys closely, there is a flat area across the ridge on both sides of the original that's not on the copy. I don't fault the cutting of the new ones as this could be wear over the years on my original, it's hard to tell. I think that's what is being obstructed and keeping the new key from turning. I'm going to take a Dremel and file that area down flat to match my original. Any comments on if this would work?
Anybody else have this happen? If it's common maybe we can help Stuart figure out how to get around it so he can spend his time making keys for the rest of you. I'd hate for others to think they have a bad key because they only tried it in the hatch and bug him when it's a great key.
Thanks for the fantastic keys!!
This is not a dig on the keys, I love them and they work perfectly on the doors and ignition, something you'd never expect from keys cut off a photo. Nice to have the original in the fire safe and I didn't have to worry about my only original getting lost while traveling everywhere.
This is more of a "how to" or "will this work" if you have the problem I have with the keys not opening the hatch.The key goes in the hatch lock just fine, but will not turn. No big deal with it since I only use the key when the battery is disconnected when I work on the car. When I looked at the keys closely, there is a flat area across the ridge on both sides of the original that's not on the copy. I don't fault the cutting of the new ones as this could be wear over the years on my original, it's hard to tell. I think that's what is being obstructed and keeping the new key from turning. I'm going to take a Dremel and file that area down flat to match my original. Any comments on if this would work?
Anybody else have this happen? If it's common maybe we can help Stuart figure out how to get around it so he can spend his time making keys for the rest of you. I'd hate for others to think they have a bad key because they only tried it in the hatch and bug him when it's a great key.
Thanks for the fantastic keys!!
03-31-2005, 02:17 PM
#68
Under the Lift
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John:
My key had some issues when it arrived and it still will not turn the hatch except to the lock direction. I noticed the old key had a bevel on the tip whereas the new one was square. I beveled the new one which helped it go into all the locks far more easily, but the hatch lock issue remains. Stuart is aware of this but does not believe the bevel should be an issue. Unbeveled, the key would not go into any lock unless wiggled and forced a lot. He said he had not encountered this problem before. He's a standup guy and I believe him, but the problem remains. The key is an emergency key primarily for the door and ignition and it works for those locks, so I happily kept it.
My key had some issues when it arrived and it still will not turn the hatch except to the lock direction. I noticed the old key had a bevel on the tip whereas the new one was square. I beveled the new one which helped it go into all the locks far more easily, but the hatch lock issue remains. Stuart is aware of this but does not believe the bevel should be an issue. Unbeveled, the key would not go into any lock unless wiggled and forced a lot. He said he had not encountered this problem before. He's a standup guy and I believe him, but the problem remains. The key is an emergency key primarily for the door and ignition and it works for those locks, so I happily kept it.
03-31-2005, 06:39 PM
#69
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Stuart,
Have you looked into getting original Porsche blanks?
I would be very interested if you could.
I am sure others would be as well.
Roger
Have you looked into getting original Porsche blanks?
I would be very interested if you could.
I am sure others would be as well.
Roger
04-01-2005, 10:24 AM
#71
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Just got my key and it works great. Could I take off the aftermarket looking end-piece and replace with an original with the Porsche crest? I don't want to brake it off just to find out that the end does not fit...
04-03-2005, 07:07 AM
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Hi guys- a note to address some issues raised so far.
Porsche original keys:
I’ll grind a plastic head off the key blanks I use and show you in a photo what lies beneath. I doubt that it will be compatible with the Porsche lighted head but you can have a look. I have no plans right now to stock original Porsche keys- maybe in the future though.
Problems with the keys -- especially in hatch locks (coincidence , or a pattern?). I wonder if the hatches are more prone to dirt or perhaps sun drying out the lock grease. Locks I’ve taken apart so far have been gummed up with hardened grease. That needs to be softened and liquified, I haven’t done any tests on it yet but normally we’d use a thin machine oil for dirty locks and for now that’s what I’d try on the grease. Lots of it! If you can, take the lock out, immerse it in oil and work the key in the lock for several minutes.
I can’t emphasise enough the importance of a clean, well-lubricated lock. Usually I recommend powdered graphite as a lock lubricant over oil. Graphite is great for clean locks but for dirty locks oil gives them a flush first.
Tapered tip: yes I now advise this. The tip part of the key plays no part at all in the functioning of the lock. Porsche originals are tapered (beveled) but our key blanks less so. I’m filing all keys made now with a tapered (pointy) tip.
Visible differences between my key cutting and the original: Alarm-lock (long) keys have a section about 2/3 of the length from the shoulder which is not used by the lock. Different cutting programs deal differently with the travel between the cuts at each end of that unused portion. All are equally valid. Changing the cutting there will make no difference to your key action. This issue does not apply to the short (non-alarm) key, it has no such “dead” section.
Another alarm/non-alarm key issue: Yes I can make a short key from a long key. However it can’t be done easily the other way (making a long key from a short key). The longer key adds more cut positions with 16 possible combinations. So if you want an alarm key from a non-alarm key, be prepared to order up to 16 keys :-)
Cheers-- Stuart (KEY4CLASSICS.COM)
Porsche original keys:
I’ll grind a plastic head off the key blanks I use and show you in a photo what lies beneath. I doubt that it will be compatible with the Porsche lighted head but you can have a look. I have no plans right now to stock original Porsche keys- maybe in the future though.
Problems with the keys -- especially in hatch locks (coincidence , or a pattern?). I wonder if the hatches are more prone to dirt or perhaps sun drying out the lock grease. Locks I’ve taken apart so far have been gummed up with hardened grease. That needs to be softened and liquified, I haven’t done any tests on it yet but normally we’d use a thin machine oil for dirty locks and for now that’s what I’d try on the grease. Lots of it! If you can, take the lock out, immerse it in oil and work the key in the lock for several minutes.
I can’t emphasise enough the importance of a clean, well-lubricated lock. Usually I recommend powdered graphite as a lock lubricant over oil. Graphite is great for clean locks but for dirty locks oil gives them a flush first.
Tapered tip: yes I now advise this. The tip part of the key plays no part at all in the functioning of the lock. Porsche originals are tapered (beveled) but our key blanks less so. I’m filing all keys made now with a tapered (pointy) tip.
Visible differences between my key cutting and the original: Alarm-lock (long) keys have a section about 2/3 of the length from the shoulder which is not used by the lock. Different cutting programs deal differently with the travel between the cuts at each end of that unused portion. All are equally valid. Changing the cutting there will make no difference to your key action. This issue does not apply to the short (non-alarm) key, it has no such “dead” section.
Another alarm/non-alarm key issue: Yes I can make a short key from a long key. However it can’t be done easily the other way (making a long key from a short key). The longer key adds more cut positions with 16 possible combinations. So if you want an alarm key from a non-alarm key, be prepared to order up to 16 keys :-)
Cheers-- Stuart (KEY4CLASSICS.COM)
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