Mrmerlin

use a tooth brush to apply the tacky grease, it gets into the grooves also do the same for the friction disc splines.
Porsche also makes a specific spline lube grease the dealer should have it, it is a dark brown paste and when you put some between the fingers it makes little hairs when you pull your fingers apart

Rob Edwards

Stan-

The optimoly HT I mentioned is the specific stuff for splines, it looks and behaves just like you describe. Good idea with the toothbrush trick!

SharkSkin

Thanks Rob, that's a very generous offer. I'll PM you an address.

Rob Edwards

Well, Erkka- 4 years later, did it solve the problem? Just curious.

(Thanks Jim C. for bringing this one back up- If there's a way to increase the reliability/lifespan of DD intermediate plates, I'm all ears....)

Dave928S

Bump .... I'd be interested to know too.

Vilhuer

Yes, relatives car has seen only little use since but so far it works just like new plate.

Dave928S

Thanks Erkka ... brilliant! ... neatly configured solution.

What sort of spring washers did you use? Did you just look for as close as you could find to match originals?

Looks like you went for a zinc plated stock ... was that something specific, or did you just find something close in size, and cut a piece off and drill and tap?

What sort of glue did you use, and did you apply it to the whole thread like threadlock to stiffen it up, or only the last threads to stop it coming apart?

Vilhuer

We put three normal DIN137A gapless spring washers. Something we had readily around. Reason for using three was that single original was stronger and felt like equal to two replacements. Since original was too weak we figured three new ones would be close to what original had been when it was new. Result certainly feels same when adjusment piece is moved with flat screwdriver.



Plate was just some metal bar we had around which was close enough and didn't require too much modifications besides cuting to fit in to hole.

Glue was mid range thread locker which was applied to entire thread after few trials to see how tight spring pack needs to be set to get desired tightness.

Basically old rivet just needs to be destroyed. Thats all mods needed to any original parts. New pieces are really easy to make since only threaded plate needs to be modded. Bolt was something we found with minimal head size in case it would get close to starter ring but in reality any bold design would have worked as pics show.

Dave928S

Thanks Erkka ... pity I didn't do this before I sent my clutch pack off for balancing ... I'll do it when I get it back for sure.

Thanks again

Rocinante

Bump - any updates from anyone? All good so far?

hacker-pschorr

Update on what specifically?
A lot of ground was covered in this thread and the end result was a broken ring on the release bearing. An issue I've now seen more than once that gave symptoms of a "stuck" or broken intermediate disc.

mark kibort

mine was just a vibration, a bad one at 6000rpm, but the pinned intermediate plate survived that abuse too. i was in denial... a new retaining ring and new T0B and i was good to go! 5 full clutch removals and replaces later! ugg!!

Rocinante

THAT is the understatement of the year - I read this whole thread and my head is still spinning!!!

The update I was after pertains to the most recent posts in this thread. I wanted to know if the "bolt and washers" modification has still stood the test of time.

Vilhuer

Yes. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't. Its factory idea which is just executed little better.

john gill

Bump
WHat length and type bolts did you use ?

I have just had the twin plate race car clutch apart and noticed that one of the plate spacers has the stud missing, but the adjuster plate is still there .
Explains why the 1st and reverse were hard to find .

I am modifying the assembly to your idea as it looks logical.