Vilhuer

We are trying this simple fix on relatives '78 soon.





Original stud/pin and washers have been replaced with small bolt, three new spring washers and piece of flat iron with thread for the bolt. Bolt is tightened just enough to totally compress spring washers under its head. This created same tightness and movement resistance as what we observed in new intermediate plate T's. When installing T's moved back with screwdriver and forward when clutch was released but didn't move at all when clutch was again pressed. This left close to equal amount of space for both disks. They were both free from surrounding surfaces. Parts work exactly like brand new intermediate plate.

In case needed, pressure can be changed by either loosening or tightening the bolt. If even this is not enough, changing washers to different strenght versions is easy. Bolt threads are glued (blue in first picture) to flat iron to keep adjustment firm. First picture lies a bit. Bolts threaded end is not in contact with intermediate ring. I think this is somewhat better solution than tightening original system by hitting it's parts as this version changes weakest link, spring washers.

But we'll see if this solves the problem or not. If not, we are almost ready to give in and convert it to automatic.

hacker-pschorr

Erkka,
Did you see my follow-up post were I found my problem? My release bearing was broken - causing the clutch to not fully move. My intermediate disc was fine.

Vilhuer

Yes, did notice it. In this case I don't believe it to be the source as it worked fine when we used clutch while lower part of bellhousing was off. Original spring washers were almost totally dead in this one.

FlyingDog

Daniel Dudley

HP, I have an old turbo that freezes it's wastegate when parked. I have to free it up manually, and then it is fine, until I park the beast. It sure sounds like you have lube , sticking issues. You can force grease into the pilot bearing by packing the center and creating pressure with a makeshift piston while turning the center of the bearing. You could try the lapping of or replacing of the shaft as suggested, relubing with the magic Porsche grease. Or you could just drive the **** out of it, and expect it to seize up again while parked.

One thing I have noticed is that I have a tendancy to be lazy about fully depressing the clutch pedal, just pushing it in enough and no more. I think my 80 likes the pedal to be pushed in fully, and it always has. I expect that my lazy foot probably encourages spline issues and creeping IP. It is, BTW, a nicer clutch than my S4 on takeup.

hacker-pschorr

Daniel,
I went down that road already, this is what I found to be broken:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...62&post3145762

FlyingDog

How's the fix working for you? Mine stopped working again today. It seems to have trouble with multi-hour trips.

a4sfed928

Flyingdog do you have aftermarket headers that may be overheating the clutch line and boiling the fluid?

FlyingDog

I do have MSDS headers, but the clutch feels fine hydraulicly and the clutch hose is wrapped in heater hose. With no cats and going 80mph, I don't think the hose would get nearly as hot as brake temps so the fluid should be fine. Also, when I say it stopped working, it didn't completely stop. It did what it did the previous times... crunch it into gear once and suddenly the clutch works decently (not perfect but shiftable).

hacker-pschorr

After installing a new release bearing, my clutch has been 100% perfect.

As for headers, my 79 has MSDS headers, no clutch problems.

SharkSkin

Doing some research in preparation for my own clutch work. Erik, what grease did you use on the stub shaft splines? Any recommendations from the peanut gallery?

Would canards on the intermediate plate help it to release properly?

hacker-pschorr

On the shaft, my mechanic told me to use "Moly Lube", then handed me this bottle:



This is the anti-size I use on anything that needs anti-sieze, when possible I only use products by WURTH:

Rob Edwards

Dave-

Greg Brown suggested the Porsche Optimoly HT grease, part # 000.043.004.00. I found a tube still in stock at the local dealer. It looks like copper antiseize but is really thick and tacky. PM me your mailing address and I'll send you some (only need a light coating) in an eppendorf tube.

hacker-pschorr

Optimoly

Sounds like the stuff

Greese like this is handy to have around. Good for CV joints and other areas. Good idea to have a tube lying around.

Rob Edwards

A CV boot full of the Porsche-specific stuff would be a couple hundred bucks, I'm embarrassed to admit that I paid ~$30 for what is probably a 100g tube. Hence the offer to mail Dave some, as you only need a little bit for the intermediate shaft. I bet the Wurth CU800 would work just fine, you just don't want to overdo it and end up slinging grease up onto the friction disks. Perhaps this is why the optimoly HT is so tacky? (total WAG....)