hacker-pschorr

My center floater disk needs a replacement. It sticks not allowing my clutch to dis-engage all the time. Pumping my clutch a few times usually free's it up.

How do I know it's this for sure? My mechanic took a spare bell housing, cut a nice hole in the side, installed it. With someone else in the car, we watched the clutch movement and could see that floater disk sticking.

So I have a replacement floater disk, time to install. I really want to do this myself in my garage since this is one job I need to learn how to do.

I know there are other threads on this, I'm also going to use this thread to post questions and issues as I go along.

My car has a new master & slave & the hose that goes between them.

1st question - with the clutch apart, am I risking anything by droping the car down and pushing it around? My garage space is limited.

Any pre-advice is welcome, I'll probably start tomorrow. I'm off the the other thread on how to jack up the car properly!

GlenL

That's the "intermediate plate" that's sticking. I'll venture that the issue is worn splines on the shaft and maybe worn splines on the plate as well. Check it out as the shaft may be cheaper.

No problem moving the car around without the clutch. You can even leave it in gear. Remember to apply the parking brake when you want it to stay put.

hacker-pschorr

Assuming Mark A doesn't mind me steeling pics from his site.

Your saying (and I think Jim B said the same thing last year on this subject) that this piece:




and this piece are binding together and causing it not to release?:





What we saw where the three little spring on the item above not moving when they should. Pumping the clutch a few times they even eventually worked themselves loose. I don't see how the shaft listed above could be involved with what I was seeing.

I must be missing something. Is there a diagram online somewhere that shoes the clutch assembly? I don't have my WSM's in front of me.

GlenL

Let me take another shot at it: The clutch plates stick on that shaft.

I'm at a loss as to how the movement of the intermediate plate could stick.

hacker-pschorr

Your telling me, it's got less than 15K on it. We could see at times it was moving "normally" the way it should, then all of a sudden, push the cluth in and the intermediate plate would not budge.

Garth S

I would also agree with Glen - it is more likely any bind or slow release witnessed at the intermediate ring is due to whatever on the splines of one disc and the shaft. The central ring of the intermediate , IIRC can be depressed by hand - no monster springs here.
The bottom line for now is that the whole thing has to come out anyway - and it drops out quite readily: the dowel pins can be a pain to back off, but not too bad .Read up on fabricating and using the 3 spacers prior to dissasembly - and take advantage of replacing the pilot bearing ans release arm cup.

GlenL

Yep. That's the interesting part. The intermediate plate just floats on the springs. Pushing the clutch in causes the arm to pull back on the pressure plate. That relieves the force on the sandwich but doesn't directly cause the intermediate plate to move. It sounds like the second clutch disk is sticking.

AngelP

Had a similar but different problem on my GT a while back after retrofitting the twin-disk setup. After driving a couple of days the disk adjustment would change to point where clutch engagement was no longer simultaneous- both disks at once. Instead of grabbing at a definite point during pedal travel, it would start to crawl almost as soon as the pedal was coming off the floor or full travel. It drove me bonkers! I must have done that re-adjustment 3 or 4 times while trying to figure it out. Turned out to be air in the slave cylinder, though I can't explain how that "forced" the mis-adjustment. After I bled the slave as described by Mark Anderson in the 928Int'l product catalog all was well.

Hope this helps.
Angel

hupp

Hacker,

Before you get too deep into this, the intermediate ring may need to be adjusted to ensure that the ring is equidistant from the friction discs when clutch is released.

To adjust:
1. Remove the lower bell cover.
2. Turn crank until one of the brass adjustment "T's" is visible.
3. Release the clutch (use some sort of lever) and be careful not to use the bell housing to pry against as it will easily crack.
4. Pry "T" toward the pressure plate as far as it will go using a flat head screwdriver.
5. Remove lever and load clutch.
6. Turn crank and repeat for each of the three "T" adjustment tabs.

BC

Is that the 'twin disk" adjustment hupp?

hupp

Brendan,

Yes, that is the twin disc adjustment. The moral of the story is that when the "T" adjusters are set as far back (toward the rear of the car) as possible the the intermediate plate self centers when clutch is loaded. As the friction discs wear, the intermediate plate is pushed toward the front of the car by the pressure plate. The intermediate plate does not self adjust toward the rear; therefore, if the proper adjustment was not made when the clutch was installed one of the discs may drag.

BC

Okay, great. One more thing for this weekend.

Pete L

Here are two links to view some photos of dual disk replacement. On my car, it was difficult to drive out the pins positioning the intermediate plate. Also, was difficult to slide the entire clutch assembly towards the rear of the car and get it then to drop downward. Made more difficult because I was working on my back under the car with not enough light!. Moral, jack it up HIGH

http://groups.msn.com/socal928/tbeltandclutch.msnw

http://members.rennlist.com/jeifert/DD-CLUTCH-REP.html

hacker-pschorr

My #1 server took a dive after starting this post so the clutch project is on hold. Good thread to reference, just didn't want anyone to be waiting for any "updates" for this weekend.

I'll let you all know what I find once it is taken apart.

hacker-pschorr

Some history on this project:

70,000 miles - Clutch pack was replaced. Every piece, center disk, bearings, etc....

92,000 miles - Clutch is being a real pain in the ***. There was hydraulic fluid coming from somewhere. Master, Slave and that PIA hose was replaced. After this it was better, but not great. I would disengage about ¾ of the time, reverse was iffy.

My mechanic a 928 buff, has raced a few different 928’s, has a couple under restoration, is very familiar with these clutches. He took a spare bell housing, cut a hole into it to see what the clutch was doing or not doing. He found out the center Intermediate Plate was sticking to one side and not letting the clutch go. 22,000 miles and this piece was having issues.

In case you didn’t know this piece is $695.00 on top of the clutch kit at $595.00.

I dunno, I guess I suspected this piece to last a bit longer. Call me crazy.

A few people suggested I try re-bleeding, maybe the center shaft was dirty/damaged, torque tube issues, disk damaged, etc..... All of these were checked.

Then I find a center Intermediate Plate & Pressure Plate on ebay. The seller bought the parts at Hershey 2004, said they were NOS. I win the auction for about $350.00 delivered. Parts arrive, they look new, no wear marks from install or usage.

Today they were installed – 100% Perfect, all gears, up and down, even reverse.

So if your pulling your hair out trying to get your duel 928 clutch from rubbing, check the Intermediate Plate.