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I've isolated a front suspension noise on the 84 Euro S I've been hearing to play in the upper ball joint control arms - think this is also causing the inner tread feathering on both front tires where one edge of each tread block is sharp vs the other edge that's smooth. Thought it might be loose front wheel bearings, but checked them yesterday and they seem fine (can move the washer using a screwdriver tip but with some resistance).
My lift is currently occupied storing one car with another one I'm working on below it, so actually swapping out the control arms would be kind of a PITA working outside and on the ground.
I've seen the upper ball joint rebuild kits that 928MS carries and since the rest of my control arms and bushings look to be in good shape, am considering going this route where I can do the work without removing the upper control arm from the car. Will also make the ball joint regreasable via the Zerk fitting making the arm last longer.
My question is do all the arms that could be installed on a 78-86 car have the upper ball joint removable under the epoxy moisture barrier? Here's a photo of my upper ball joint if you can tell whether this option will work for me.
Let me know if this is a good option and if others have used it before. I know I've seen some 928s with the Zerk fitting on the ball joint from this kit.
Doubt these are original arms at 150k miles, so rubber looks.lime.it still has life left. If I can get a couple more years out of them due to the lift situation, that's pretty easy.
Doubt these are original arms at 150k miles, so rubber looks.lime.it still has life left. If I can get a couple more years out of them due to the lift situation, that's pretty easy.
1). You have receipts to know theyr'e not ~40yrs old?
2). You know that durometers do NOT work by eyeballing the condition of a bushing...
I've isolated a front suspension noise on the 84 Euro S I've been hearing to play in the upper ball joint control arms - think this is also causing the inner tread feathering on both front tires where one edge of each tread block is sharp vs the other edge that's smooth. Thought it might be loose front wheel bearings, but checked them yesterday and they seem fine (can move the washer using a screwdriver tip but with some resistance).
My lift is currently occupied storing one car with another one I'm working on below it, so actually swapping out the control arms would be kind of a PITA working outside and on the ground.
I've seen the upper ball joint rebuild kits that 928MS carries and since the rest of my control arms and bushings look to be in good shape, am considering going this route where I can do the work without removing the upper control arm from the car. Will also make the ball joint regreasable via the Zerk fitting making the arm last longer.
My question is do all the arms that could be installed on a 78-86 car have the upper ball joint removable under the epoxy moisture barrier? Here's a photo of my upper ball joint if you can tell whether this option will work for me.
Let me know if this is a good option and if others have used it before. I know I've seen some 928s with the Zerk fitting on the ball joint from this kit.
Thanks.
Interesting.
I'm never concerned about the ball joints, on the upper arms.
I'm worried about how much the rubber deflects and pay attention to those.
Nice and thanks a lot. How long did it take you? Both sides in a leisurely day?
I would say yes, easily if the joints come loose. I had one come right off and the other I had to fight for a couple of hours. I haven’t had issue with getting them loose in the past.
Once you dig out the sealant you need a good pick to get the C ring out. If you just can’t get it then you can drill a small hole to get on it. I did that to the one in the picture but didn’t have to to the other side. Once that is done it goes pretty quickly.
GB sells the socket and long wrench to remove the bolts for the A arms,
takes about 30 mins a side with the right tools
Pete if the inner tire edges are feathering there is good chance you will need to check the front alignment toe.
Drive the car atleast 50 miles before you do this without lifting the car.
NOTE it takes a good few hundred miles for the car to really find its sweet spot on the suspension.
so after your initial alignment check the tires and readjust it if necessary.
NOTE thats where it sounds like you are now with a readjustment required,
but you just lifted the car so you sort of have to start over.
With the info you provided,
At this point Smart money says replace both upper and lower control arms and lower ball joints.
NOTE thats if these parts are original.
GB sells the socket and long wrench to remove the bolts for the A arms,
takes about 30 mins a side with the right tools
.
that tool is an absolute must.
these cars are not getting any younger. A complete refresh of any rubber bushing on the car makes a profound difference on the ride and handling. get the rebuilt ones.
these cars are not getting any younger. A complete refresh of any rubber bushing on the car makes a profound difference on the ride and handling. get the rebuilt ones.
no kidding. it makes the handling feel very "scary" even at moderate speeds (i.e. 85mph). vibrations, wandering (especially when the side to side slope of the road surface changes), sort of a bucking bronc feel when you go over railroad crossing...not fun.
The difference between a 928 with new rubber bushings and a set of quality shocks and a 928 with 40 year old rubber bushings and worn out shocks is almost unbelievable.
The cars go from a heavy, lazy feeling to a light and nimble feeling.
While it seems like an old cliche, it's actually very true:
"It's like two completely different model vehicles".
The difference between a 928 with new rubber bushings and a set of quality shocks and a 928 with 40 year old rubber bushings and worn out shocks is almost unbelievable.
The cars go from a heavy, lazy feeling to a light and nimble feeling.
While it seems like an old cliche, it's actually very true:
"It's like two completely different model vehicles".
Greg B. I have recently renovated a 1979 5 speed. Suspension/bushings remain however. I wonder what is your best tip on how to refurb a car like mine in regards to bushings? I live in Sweden so parts from US is possible but a bit of a hassle.