Guys
So started with the rheostat removal and cleaned up with electrical cleaned ( it really wasn’t corroded ) .
check with meter and ohms did change with moving dial.
Put a fused connector in series with the connectors and fuse did no blow and still no lights ??
is there any way to check the dash lights without removal of Pod ?

Assume they should come on with switch on and parking lights on ( warning lights do lite ).
thanks for ideas
frank

 

Under the left side of the dash is the dimmer rheostat. Remove the two connectors from that and jumper them together. See if you have dash lights now as it will make them full bright. When the rheostat fails you can lose the dimmer and all light function. If jumpering the dimmer results in lights, you can remove it and try to clean it with Deoxit D100 and see if you can restore it's function. If not, replace with a new one good used one or leave the lights on full bright, as they not really that bright.

 

what happens with the rheostat is the brass rivets that transfer the voltage corrode and then fail to allow the voltage to pass,

The part can be removed and the rivets reswaged but your usually on borrowed time by then,
and its a PITA to remove the part from pod,
dont remove the anchor screw,
just turn it enough to slide the part out.
NOTE Deoxit 100 will restore operation if the rivets are still tight

 

Thanks guys
I put fused in line connector between the wires and still had no lights …So this took the rheostat out as possible issue .
All warning lights work and all instruments work ……Thoughts on next step ?
Seems odd that just the dash lights might be burned out ?

 

The pod switches, gauge lights and the center console lights (HVAC, Radio, Clock) should be all on the same circuit so you should verify if it's just the pod or the whole system. If it's just the pod, then it's more than likely a faulty connection at the connector which would require removal and inspection and testing.

If the pod switches, pod lighting, and center console is not illuminated then it would be wise to start at the CE panel,

1. check the fuse for the instrument lights, if good
2. check for voltage on the supply side (top). if not pull the CE panel and trace the supply using the wiring diagrams, if you have voltage then,
3. check for voltage at the rheostat. if not you have a break somewhere between. If good then,
4. start tracing for a connectivity break between the rheostat and the subsequent systems, this will require pod removal.

Best of luck.

 

I had 12v at the black wires to the rheostat….
fuses were all good .
assume the black/ blue wires feed to the Pod ?
should there be a certain Ohm reading on. The black/blue wires to indicate if bulbs burned out ?
thanks again
frank

 

what year is your car and is it ROW or USA/Canada?
can you verify if your pod switches are lit with the parking lights on?
can you verify if your center console lights are lit with the parking lights on? (HVAC, Ashtray, Clock).

 

It’s a 1979 US ..

 

Have reviewed the wiring diagram yet? It sounds like you have a break in the connection someplace. I would think you would need to pull the pod and potentially the center console to trouble shoot this. If you do decide to dig in, I can recommend some suitable LED's that will reduce overall load on the circuit and offer more light and maintain dimming.

can you verify if your pod switches are lit with the parking lights on?
can you verify if your center console lights are lit with the parking lights on? (HVAC, Ashtray, Clock).

__________________

 

Michael
Thanks , will check these , I know the clock not working , Hvac working , radio works , will check ashtray .
leds would also be a good thought .
checking some wire diagrams and back in a while

 

Ok after further checking ….
I do have power to the rheostat and also power to the clock and hvac control panel , they also light.
Also reinstalled the cleaned up rheostat and it’s working as the clock light and dims etc.
So reviewing the wire diagrams appears there is only one wire feeding power to the dash lights as per photo
and one ground for all the dash lights …..so the ground must be good.
I am looking at the wire/pin which I believe enters one of the main plugs as shown in photo.
Think if I could confirm the pin (12R) is engaged properly and reads 12v ( how to get at this connector at back ?)
then it must be the bulbs burn out , just hard to believe all 3 bulbs burned out and all rest in dash are good

so how to get at this plug and it’s pins ?
thanks for assistance
frank

 

If you reach up from under the dash, you can feels and wiggle the 3 main connectors. If you do this with the parking lights on you can see if the pod lights flicker or start working. Probably the contacts on the foil are old and not.making great contact anymore. The best upgrade is the Lutz boards which I didn't even know about until I was working on a car I bought, took the pod out and saw the much better solution to the foils.

One connector bottom left, one bottom right, and one top right. You may have trouble getting to the top right one without taking the pod loose but you can take it loose without fully removing it. There are some tips, so read a couple pod removal threads before beginning.

 

Petra914
Thanks, will get at those plugs and see if I can get good things to happen or further action/removal needed..
Appreciate assistance
frank