I would not use silicone for the tensioner gasket this part already is floating on the block since it’s not pinned a stock gasket with hondabond smeared on it seems to work pretty well along with STP oil used to fill the tensioner

when fitting the tensioner press on the body so to preposition it like it’s loaded this will reduce the amount that it moves after a few heat cycles

Note this movement can make the belt get loose requiring a belt retension

 

I wasn't planning on using any sealant with the silicone gasket.

 

you wont be able to crank down on a silicone gasket,
that green gasket looks perfect,

NOTE be a shame to have a loose belt event because a soft tensioner gasket was used.
NOTE this isnt the engine to experiment on ,
better to try this on a 4.5 engine for proof of concept.

 

That's an interesting point. But, if I preload the tensioner would that help?

 

For what it's worth: I used the new Curil T2 when I did my recent TB job. See my thread on it. I used it on the WP and the tensioner gasket. It is a weird substance. It remains sticky and non hardened forever. But, so far, I haven't seen any coolant or oil drip. Everything is clear on the ground so far.

 

I have Curil that I use from water pump gaskets. I also have a tube of Dreibond that I need to find a use for. :-)

I think Stan is right and silicone may be less than optimal for the tension gasket.

KB

 

That's an interesting point. But, if I preload the tensioner would that help?

Kevin N F W I would start experimenting on a GTS block with an unproven part or assembly.

Use that green gasket put hondabond on it,
torque it to spec after you have pushed the tensioner into its loaded position.


Fill with STP oil from a visene bottle with the tip drilled out .
NOTE so you dont blow off the inner C boot ring that can happen if a hand oil pump is used.

 

Stan, not testing on the GTS - you may have missed that. The GTS has the green gasket and HondaBond HT. One layer on the block to hold the gasket in place. One layer on the tensioner.


And just to be a contrarian on tension body filling I'm going to use my mighty vac to suck the STP into the tensioner from a bottle of STP.. Hee hee.

KB

 

OK your the smartest man in the room

 

It's a very small room with padded walls and no windows.

 

I mean that because we are all guessing on what your doing based on your descriptions and pictures,
Your the one that can see whats going with first hand knowledge.
Thus,
Your the smartest man in the room

 

I'll get you pictures when I get the set up complete.

I have used your method and oil squirt can method with success (albeit very slow pumps with a pause between pumps).

But in the car, bent over is a serious PITA. And it takes long and no matter how hard you try there's always a mess.

I've always wondered about vacuuming the STP into the tensioner. No mess.

I'll start l putting the parts I need together.

 

I remove the bleeder tips from the tensioner,
then the visene tip fits in perfectly,
and usually about 2 drips is all I lose.
fill from the port furthest away from the crank

 

I just don't understand the "great mystery" with the stock belt tensioner.
I haven't had a tensioner seap/leak oil in the past 20 years.
It's just not that complex of a piece.

 

Of course not.