When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Wow, impressive thread and interesting read, Kevin, you got a good deal as it seems that motor is good to go. You sure those cam covers will not clean up?
Wow, impressive thread and interesting read, Kevin, you got a good deal as it seems that motor is good to go. You sure those cam covers will not clean up?
The cam covers and manifold sides are covered with melted aluminum. Luckily I have a supply of them.
Rebuilt the stock tensioner. I used wet dry sandpaper wrapped around thick glass to smooth the mounting surface and cleaned the block with a new razor perpendicular to the block. I'm going to use a version of the tensioner gasket I had made. Looking for a solution that will not leak.
Kevin I would suggest that when you fit the tensioner,
to use some hondabond around the oil well area,
then push the tensioner like it has a belt on it while tightening the bolts ,
this will reduce the tendency for the tensioner to slide around on its mounting pad and find its home,
NOTE when that happens the belt usually gets loose,
and that happens after the first few heat cycles.
This happens because the tensioner is not pinned, and the slop in the bolt holes
Kevin I would suggest that when you fit the tensioner,
to use some hondabond around the oil well area,
then push the tensioner like it has a belt on it while tightening the bolts ,
this will reduce the tendency for the tensioner to slide around on its mounting pad and find its home,
NOTE when that happens the belt usually gets loose,
and that happens after the first few heat cycles.
This happens because the tensioner is not pinned, and the slop in the bolt holes
As you've said, all tensioners leak.
I've been wondering why there is so much slop in the mounting holes.
Your suggestion to load the tensioner is a good one.
Plumbing all 4 of the cam cover PCV vents all with the stock separators? - I'd be inclined to use the larger bore unrestricted elbows for all of them (then you could still restrict them externally later if desired - rather more flexible).
Engine looks very good - I imagine you are very happy to have picked this one up!
Plumbing all 4 of the cam cover PCV vents all with the stock separators? - I'd be inclined to use the larger bore unrestricted elbows for all of them (then you could still restrict them externally later if desired - rather more flexible).
Engine looks very good - I imagine you are very happy to have picked this one up!
Alan
Yep, large bore versions I've collected over the years.
Somebody suggested clear tubing from cam to cam to observe oil vapors. We'll see.
Kevin I would suggest that when you fit the tensioner,
to use some hondabond around the oil well area,
Couple of things.
1 - I buy my HondaBond at the Honda car dealership - it's HondaBond HT. It's not runny like the motorcycle shop version.
2 - I really think there is a need for bolts that don't have all that slop. Or bushings like the ones used on the tensioner pivot.
I had Pete in SC, no, not that Pete, the other Pete, press in bronze bushings into a short shifter - they'll never wear out. No slop ever. And why wouldn't I do the same for the plastic tension pivot bearings? Maybe I will.
I have some 1/16th silicone rubber sheet on order. I'm going have my laser guy to cut some tensioner gaskets out of it. It's resists oil. I'll use that on my 90 S4 with the leaking tensioner.