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I'm going to install a new clutch in my 82 928 tomorrow. I've done at least a hundred clutch jobs in the past mostly 911,bmw's. I never greased the splines on the output shaft in fear of crap (dirt and lining dust) turning the grease into glue. I see in the manual that Porsche highly recommends this application of a wheel bearing like grease. I'm concerned that it will hinder the movement of the disc's on the splines not help. Am I off base here?
Thanks Guy's.
Hacker is correct, lube it up with the proper stuff and you will be worry free for years. I’ve replaced many intermediate shafts that were worn out due to no grease.
But, I didn't use that secret-sauce grease when installing the DD clutch in the GT racecar. Do I need to redo it?
I think I used Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty Grease.
Here is what I know, and I expect to be corrected on it LOL
The "moly" stands for molybdenum disulfide and / or Molykote which is the key component needed in this application.
If you google "molybdenum disulfide grease" there are other options, but I think a lot of us stick with the Porsche tube just to be safe.
This is the type of scenario where the grease we use needs to contain molybdenum disulfide, but not all greases containing the stuff is suitable for a clutch shaft.
To the OP, you definitely need to grease the splines.
However, after a brief search, opinions vary widely on which grease to use. Many argue any grease will do, and others insist otherwise, and both camps have equal results. A common theme though is, no dry splines.
With all that said, here's what I'd get in order:
Optimoly HT - not found on Amazon
Sachs Clutch Disc Spline Grease
The latter is a clutch manufacturer, so one would expect it to be a good choice:
It needs to be greased. As long as you have the "bung plugs" in the bottom of the Bell Housing, there won't be enough dirt getting to it to matter.
Failing to properly lube it will result in some nasty wear on the short shaft, which will then prevent the clutch from releasing properly.
As with just about any project on the 928, the process is very simple:
Step #1 - Call Roger.
Step #2 - Tell him you are doing a clutch job, and need the "super duper sticky clutch grease". He will know exactly what you mean (really). He will ask how deep you are going, and suggest any other needed parts. He has the bung plugs in stock for a couple bucks each.
Step #3 - Wait a day or two for the stuff to show up on your doorstep.
Thanks guy's When I dropped the assembly About a pound of old clutch material fell out on top of my arms and head also the spline shaft was coated with the stuff. I started this project because the clutch was dragging I still don't know for sure why but I did find all that dust (honestly it was at least a 1\2 cup to 3/4 cup) in there. And the ball cup (later style) was broken to pieces. I found no real smoking gun. I'm replacing the pressure plate, pilot brg., both discs. Everything else seems good. I'm concerned about the intermediate plate adjustment, the manual say's set the clearance of the stops to 1.0-1.2 mm in one section then say's to push all the adjusters back towards the pressure plate in another.
Thanks for your help. Any advice on the adjustment would be appreciated. I've searched many threads on this and found a lot of arguments about it. I'm afraid what happened to Haker-Pschorr will happen to me. A totally new clutch and it still drags!
We all know where the intermediate disc needs to be to operate correctly, that is "centered" between the discs when the clutch is disengaged.
The debate is how to get there.
1. The WSM describes how to set this adjustment on the bench, I'm sure that works but I've never done that.
2. Some claim you can push the adjusters "all the way back" and the first couple times you operate the clutch it will naturally center itself. I've tired this on multiple cars, has never worked for me.
Since we know where the intermediate disc needs to be while the clutch is disengaged, why not disengage the clutch and then make the adjustment? This will work every single time, assuming nothing is broken (my saga was a damaged release bearing).
Two ways I've done this:
1. With a ratchet strap on the clutch fork, other end wrapped around something like an axle. I'm not a huge fan of this, but it does work.
2. Cut a hole in the lower bellhousing. If you plan to own the car for a while, buy a used one - doubt they are very expensive.
Here is mine and since I have multiple 5-speeds I'm working with Twin Turbo Todd to make some kind of access panel on all my cars:
So , Hacker You ratchet strap the t/o arm to something stable then tighten until the clutch is disengaged then center the intermediate plate? Do you use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the two plates where they contact the i/p and p/p? I'm hoping that the dust trapped between the plate and disc has something to do with the dragging.
I've only done the ratchet strap way a couple of times many years ago. It's a bit unnerving to have that much potential energy near your head.... I was never very comfortable with that method but it works.
The more I think about it, we used more of a come-along, not a ratchet strap. They have far more pulling power.
I rotate the clutch to each adjuster and manually "center" the disc.
Rotate the engine either at the nose or with the above cover in place, using a pry-bar on the starter ring
Not sure on exact details of the 82 clutch, but there were 2 different types of finish on the short shaft. Check the WSM Vol 2, 30-16a. Depending on your shaft, you should use either Optimoly HT (copper colored antiseize stuff) or Optimoly Olista/Elista Longtime EP (super duper sticky, light brown color). The HT is used on other areas in the clutch as well, so you definitely need that. But you might also need the Longtime EP stuff for the shaft.
11-03-2017, 10:00 AM
to grease or not to grease that is the question
