blown 87

I have a newer tube of what i think is Optimoly HT (or its replcement), the part number is 00004302400.

Any body have a idea about this?

soupcan

intermediate shaft lubrication or any shaft you wish to lubricate lubrication.

blown 87

If you are asking where I am going to use it, I am going to use it where the WSM calls for it on doing a DD clutch conversion, I am almost sure this is what i used on the last one we did, but I honestly can not say that it was this tube or not.

Not the first time I have had this question answered, but at least this time I will have a thread to come back to for the answer.

Rob Edwards

The Optimoly HT I have is is 000 043 004 00. Thick stringy copper antiseize-y looking stuff for your intermediate shaft, PP fingers, etc.

Greg used half a tube of 000 043 024 00 in rebuilding the GTS tranny, for whatever that's worth. Maybe 000 043 024 00 is the current # for Optimoly HT?

The part # that got me Optimoly TA in 1/09 was 000 043 020 00

Drei Bond is 000 043 203 73

Porsche caliper paste is 000 043 117 00

blown 87

Well, what I have is not a thick stringy copper anti seize, but I do have a tub of Wurth CU110 which is a high temp anti seize, looks like I am going to have to wait and get the right stuff, find the tube i have or use the Wurth on my clutch.

i have the TA and the above, and some place i have another tube, maybe Porsche in atlanta will have some in stock.

jeff spahn

so why can't I use just silver anti seize on my block water drain plugs instead of copper anti seize?

soupcan

Saved this post from Jim M.
https://rennlist.com/forums/2955379-post4.html

jeff spahn

sweet, so the silver stuff won't affect my block water drain plugs. perfect

blown 87

Central Shaft I
The first version of central shaft 928.421.235.12 (no longer available) was sometimes
installed together with new clutch parts.
The modified central shaft 928.421.235.13 was replaced with central shaft 928.421.235.16
(hard nicle-plated/same size) as from June of 1983. Central shaft 928.421.235.13 will no
longer be available after depletion of stocks.
Axial movement of clutch discs on central shaft I is better after long operating time when
using the hard nickle-plated version in conjunction with the specified lubricant.
Identification: 928.421.235.13 gray/black
928.421.235.16 dull silver
Lubricant specifications for splines (central shaft I and clutch discs):
928.423.235.12 and
928.423.235.13 very thin coat of Optimoly HT
928.423.235.16 coat of Optimoly Olista Longtime 3 EP
(Part No. 000.043.024.00)

From the WSM, looks like I have the right stuff for the nickel shaft, which I think I have, this is hard to try to piece a clutch together correctly with parts from all over.

vze2jshn

I strongly suggest you acquire and use the copper(looks gold in color) stringy sticky stuff as called for originally for the clutch intermediate shaft and pp fingers otherwise you may find yourself back in to the clutch within a year or so because other lubs will break down and dry out. I don't have the part # handy.

blown 87

From the looks of the WSM, it seems it depends on which shaft you have as to which lube they want you to use.
I have this, Optimoly Olista Longtime 3 EP (Part No. 000.043.024.00)

jeff spahn

I am going to laugh if this keeps up.

blown 87

When ya got a big shaft, ya got to lube it.

blown 87

This is a post from Wally in 2005, now I am really confused.

worf928

Wally's post refers to the fact that a GTS guide tube and t/o bearing do not get LongTime EP lubed ('cause the t/o bearing has teflon (IIRC) pads on the inside.)

The original pre-GTS bits did (and do) get lubed-up. And no matter which version, the splines on the i-shaft need the high-pressure Opitmol(y) grease (along with whatever else the WSM calls for.... ends of the fingers on the PP?... I think.)