Porsche5050

Hi,
I'm starting to go my timing belt/h2o pump today and I'm wondering, if my battery is in need of a recharge and the engine won't crank with its current juice, is there a need for me to disconnect the battery before starting?

Also, do I have to torque ALL of the bolts I work with or only those specifically stated in the procedure:

http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/tbelt.html

Finally, when you all do the tbelt/h2o pump, do you leave the car jacked up or is it sitting on its tires most of the time.

Thanks!

ViribusUnits

disconnect the battery. It may not have enough juice to start the car, but it might have just enough juice to fry something if you short something out. Also, it might suddently "revive" and accidnetly make the crank jump at just the right moment to take a finger off. Or dammage it. Be safe, just disconnect the battery, it's easy. (oh, avoid bumping it, and possibly brakeing any crystals inside it. Start rechargeing and get it ready for your restart.)

I don't think I jacked my car up ever when I did the H2O pump.

I'm skiny enough though that I can get to the oil plug and coolent plug w/o problem while the car is on the ground. I'm also not chustrophobic, so.. Thats pretty much the only reason you'd need to pick the car off the ground.

From there, I left it on the ground because it was easyer for me to work on.

It's always a good idea to torque all the bolts, but I didn't bother on things like the cover bolts. I'm not even sure if they come with a spec. Do bother on the water pump boilts, the bolts that hold the arm on the block, and the idler bolts. Other than that, I don't know what else you would torque of the top of my head. May the S4 has more peices?

Good luck.

Drewster67

Disconnect the battery just to be safe and to prohibit further draining.
I left my vehicle on the ground.
Keep all parts/bolts seperate and labeled.
Do not over Trq any bolts

Good Luck ad take your time.

Scott M.

If your working by yourself, leave it jacked up waist high (working zone) as you'll be under the car a few times.

Disconnect the battery. Good practice. So nothing grounds against the jump start terminal.

Don't over-torque the WP bolts, metal bolts in Al. block...Getting the crank bolt torqued is tuff unless you have a 3/4"/600 lb/ft torque wrench

Before you start, do you have all the necessary parts? Flywheel lock tool, 3/4" socket set w/ breaker bar, Front of engine seals?

johnny928

I was actually looking into doing my waterpump and timing belt on my 80 928. What tools are required and what should all be replaced and looked at while I have the waterpump and timing belt off? Thanks

Johnny

ViribusUnits

Take a glance at the procedure posted above.

It's a good place to start.

A 1980 car is very similer to the S4s. You just have a few bits and peices diffrent. No biggie.

Porsche5050

Sounds good guys. I'll disconnect the battery and see what I can do w/o jacking the car up. Also, I'll be sure to track down a torque wrench when doing the important bolts.

Bill Ball

You will need to get under the car to lock the flywheel, to remove the bolts that hold the AC compressor in place so it can swing in and to remove the coolant plugs from the block. I'm small, but I sure can't do that with the car on the ground.

I follow the torque specs for any bolt that has one. Problem is finding the spec as they are somewhat scattered in the shop manual (FSM). For those that have no spec, there is a general guide somewhere near the front of the FSM. Careful with the 6MM water pump bolts. I was went to just below the low end of the spec as they didn't feel up to the full torque. felt like they were stretching too much. Maybe I did not clean and dry out the holes well enough

Mike LaBranche

I'd put the car in the air. Four jack stands is my preference. Makes it a heckuva lot easier to deal with sliding underneath, finding the right wrench, the part, the bolts and nuts, etc. Another vote for disconnect the battery and charge same. Drain the oil. Be patient.

Mr. Pirtle's guide is excellent. Make sure you do the dance. Have fun.

Garth S

Ditto for the car in the air/battery disconnect! As the other guys have said, installation of flywheel lock,etc.
I'd also note removal of at least one block plug (and draining) to avoid the flood of anti-freeze when the pump is pulled. Also, prefer to swing the alt./PSteering pump aside - in case the harmonic damped needs gentle persuasion from all sides, and to remove the crank idler roller(s).
Generally get by with two jack stands and 'chock' the rears.
Oh yeah, PLUG the dipstick hole to the sump! if you choose to not drain the coolant (or drop anything small), guess where it goes!!

John Struthers

Remove the Battery and recharge preferably trickle charge.
Great time to see if you have any corrosion in the battery 'box' area,
or if the paint/protective coating need some attention. Clean the Battery ground cable, both ends, the ground point where the butterfly bolt threads into -metal behind the tool tray/cover. The positive terminal, make sure there isn't any corrosion under the insulation, a squeeze or two should do it. If it isn't nasty looking or crunchy to the touch you should be alright.
Clean up the battery hold down block and hardware lube lighly with di-electric grease. You could do a resistance check as well. Don't put the battery back in till you need to and re trickle for a couple of hours prior to re-installation. This would also be a golden opprotunity to check any visible connectors, and wires for any damage. Put some di-electric grease on the posts while you are at it, and make sure the box area and battery are dry when you re-install. Anytime you work with a battery there is a chance of injury, wear goggles or glasses, never blow out powdery substances with lung power, after handling a dirty battery/ components/box go wash up!
Toss whatever rags you use. Keep battery/charging or storing away from kids pets and the unwary. As to the TB/H2O pump refurbish: Whenever possible bungie, or tie things back out of the way rather than totally removing them. Clean on the way in and out...everything you can reach.
Inspect all visible wiring and Vac. lines. Keep hardware with component, clean em'first.
Lay your new pump on a piece of cardboard. Trace an outline, and bolt holes as well. Use the cardboard as a bolt locater for reinstallation -poke a hole where they are supposed to go and stick the bolt thru cardboard.
The job is pretty straight forward hopefully you won't snap a bolt during disassembly/re-assembly. NO Wacking, align your tools -use the right one's- and apply reasonable force. Might need some WD 40 or some penetrating fluids.
You need a torque wrench, use correct tightening sequence, don't forget your tensioner and any rollers that need inspection/replacement. Keep your fan assy. vertical after removal to prevent leakage.
I use large pieces of cardboard under the car when working it soaks up leaking/dribbling fluids and you can pull it out, fold it and all the dirt /grunge that you brushed/scrapped off goes into the dumpster at one time -no stains orslippery fluids on the garage floor.

soontobered84

use a piece of cardboard and punch holes to mark the locations of each bolt from the water pump. That way they will go back in the same place. Some are long and some are short and they need to go back in the sames corresponding hole that they came from.

soontobered84

Oops, sorry John. You just said the same thing

John Struthers

Yeah,
But you said/explained it better.

Porsche5050

Thanks for all the tips guys. I disconnected the battery and jacked up the front of the car, just enough so that the front tires are totally off the ground. Now, I'm going to go drain the radiator. I guess it's officially begun....