944 OBD Project (On-Board Diagnostics)
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Hi Joe,
I have a Roque Tune NA MAF, supplied by Josh. I do not know MAF sensor p/n he used although I might be able to read the p/n. Let you know.
I support your effort in making the F9Tech compatible with Roque Tuning MAF NA.
Is your design going to allow for a Rogue,Tuning Chip, either 2.5L NA or 2.8L Stroker NA?
Is your chip going to be programmable for engine tuners to move the hp and torque curve and Air/Fuel ratio for various compression ratios and fuel octane to optimize engine performance for racing application?
I believe Rogue Tuning shifted the torque curve to a lower rpm than the stock OEM Porsche chip.
FRWilk had provided chips that moved the torque curve to a lower rpm and had the rev limiter set for 7000rpm.
For racing application, the rev limiter must be set for 7000rpm, as there are valve springs that the best cylinder head guru's use that are designed for 7000rpm, but not Porsche OEM..
Thank you,
Tom
I have a Roque Tune NA MAF, supplied by Josh. I do not know MAF sensor p/n he used although I might be able to read the p/n. Let you know.
I support your effort in making the F9Tech compatible with Roque Tuning MAF NA.
Is your design going to allow for a Rogue,Tuning Chip, either 2.5L NA or 2.8L Stroker NA?
Is your chip going to be programmable for engine tuners to move the hp and torque curve and Air/Fuel ratio for various compression ratios and fuel octane to optimize engine performance for racing application?
I believe Rogue Tuning shifted the torque curve to a lower rpm than the stock OEM Porsche chip.
FRWilk had provided chips that moved the torque curve to a lower rpm and had the rev limiter set for 7000rpm.
For racing application, the rev limiter must be set for 7000rpm, as there are valve springs that the best cylinder head guru's use that are designed for 7000rpm, but not Porsche OEM..
Thank you,
Tom
The SPORT DME is fully compatible with all MAF kits made for the factory BOSCH DME, this includes the OBD+ module upgrade. From any performance chips perspective, my DME “looks” just like the factory DME. I faithfully implement every feature of the factory DME including the FQS switch and Test Socket A functionalities.
I am moving towards full engine tuning, but it will be an incremental process. Right now, MAF support has my full attention. After that I will implement solid-state ignition, followed by fuel remapping. Ultimately, I will provide the ability to completely remap the ignition and fuel tables in real time. There will also be extensive datalogging and data collection tools to analyze engine performance. The OBD+ module was designed for high-precision monitoring and control of engine management functions. For example, factory DME is and 8bit computer and runs at 6Mhz, whereas the OBD+ model has a modern 32bit computer and runs at 216Mhz. Because of this, the OBD+ module can take measurements, make calculation then drive outputs radically faster and more precise than the factory DME. The OBD+ system bridges the gap between direct-fit OEM/aftermarket compatibility and true 21st century engine management.
-Joe
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Last edited by Ftech9; 10-08-2021 at 10:36 AM.
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@Ftech9 I know you have a lot on your plate, but if you ever re-engineered the late 944/968 HVAC controller panels (for A/C and non-A/C) for solid state and factory look I think I would explode!
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@Ftech9 I know you have a lot on your plate, but if you ever re-engineered the late 944/968 HVAC controller panels (for A/C and non-A/C) for solid state and factory look I think I would explode!
In any case, I need to finish up my engine management technology before getting into these kinds of display products.
-Joe
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gruhsy (10-09-2021)
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All 16-Valve 944's have a newer generation Motronic ML4 computer that is not compatible with the earlier Motronic ML3. I have a short history of 944 Motronic computers on my website here: Porsche 944 DME: A Short History
The main difference is the ML4 has an integrated knock control system which adds several pins to the system connector.
-Joe
The main difference is the ML4 has an integrated knock control system which adds several pins to the system connector.
-Joe
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Most people do. I would have walked out to the hotel parking lot to look but didn't want to put my pants back on.
Good to know though. While I don't have any DME issues, having OBD2 connectivity would be great. Like right now my tach I don't think is right and plugging in to pull nunbers from the ECU would be so easy.
Good to know though. While I don't have any DME issues, having OBD2 connectivity would be great. Like right now my tach I don't think is right and plugging in to pull nunbers from the ECU would be so easy.
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A couple years back I bought one off eBay and took it apart to get an idea if I could repair or replace them. The good news is the electronics are rather simple, so reverse engineering the circuit boards is not an issue. What keeps this project low on my backlog is how difficult they are to disassemble, the cost of some of the parts, and other parts are just not available. If I did come up with a replacement, it would likely cost about as much as brand new environmental controller. That said, I could completely redesign it, the first option that comes to mind is a custom touchscreen display instead of *****, buttons and sliders. I can style the graphics similar to modern Porsche in-dash displays, but I am not sure how such a product would be received.
In any case, I need to finish up my engine management technology before getting into these kinds of display products.
-Joe
In any case, I need to finish up my engine management technology before getting into these kinds of display products.
-Joe
The second is they are as reliable as anything else electronic with use, age, vibration and heat. The problem when they do fail is finding a good used one or paying big dollars buying new. Buying used is like buying any old automotive electronic parts. Depending where you get it from it may or may not have been tested and then does that mean plugged in and goes, or opened up and examined for cracked solders, leaking capacitors, etc too. Buying new they are very expensive but if you need one, you need one.
This is mine below and a few searches at some sites I use.
![](https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/dsc01402_0141907be3505a9db3b61d119986657b99ba9644.jpg)
Non-A/C, bad clear plate
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x922/20210326_134347_c80a84f5fe13343bfd7f32693af57c708d5c9ddf.jpg)
Non-A/C, bad clear plate
![](https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x922/20210405_170032_2c49e3c020fddf3856d96042d5a6d904a7f3bc35.jpg)
3d printed prototype from KVDR
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x922/20210417_002752_6f605bf92a70e408b3bdc7eb06d9f04d69c72a5c.jpg)
Reassembled with T5 LED
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1010x646/hvac_74d6a1db9b8e2d632118e2c62f106865dd85d84c.jpg)
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1173x883/hvac2_df6c0d7ebb6b181eda6817299452b7a9760dc1dd.jpg)
![](https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/930x524/hvac3_b155d06bc3cdfd6508fb6d0e8b292d4a8a1bddab.jpg)
![](https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/727x235/hvac5_193b00dc4a4f617e45daa91147a0319246b1b702.jpg)
used, $175.00 - out of stock
![](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1582x462/hvac4_85a7312cd4d7d06d4c4dbd70ebd845035a5dbf7a.jpg)
used - out of stock
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Ah yes, I inadvertently broke the clear plastic piece in my S2 when I caught the end of the clear plastic trying to pop the cover off, but I haven't replaced the dash control unit yet, but do have two brand new ones. I bought one from Sunset in 2018 during 20% discount Black Friday sale and paid about $604 USD. Bought another one last year from Delaware for $667. One will eventually go in the S2, the other in the 951 as its fan speed switch is a bit wobbly and it has the old continuous rotary dial for the temp instead of the one with detents. Both are currently working fine, so no rush to replace them... just wanted a few spares before they are NLA.
#372
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Originally Posted by michael7810
To recap: 87 Turbo with 132K miles - at almost every start, hot or cold, the NBO2 reading in OBD is LEAN for a few minutes. The engine appears to be running lean (i.e. I think the NBO2 reading is correct) because revving it is very sluggish and sometimes backfires thru the intake. After a few minutes the NBO2 starts to dither between LEAN and RICH and the engine revs OK. Fuel pressure is 37 static and 32 at idle, leakdown is good. I increased the fuel pressure at idle to 37 by disconnecting the vacuum hose and that made no difference. I've turned it off after the issue clears itself and restarted immediately and it goes back into the stuck in lean condition for a few minutes. I set the FQS to position 1 and that made no difference.
The injectors have 8K miles since testing good by WitchHunter. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter all have 8K miles since new. There are no vacuum leaks. On the road the engine runs fine, good throttle response, boosts to 0.7Bar, and pulls good to redline.
Can someone with a turbo and Sport DME w/OBD verify the condition I have is not normal?? Any ideas on what/how I can check other components?? Thanks
The injectors have 8K miles since testing good by WitchHunter. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter all have 8K miles since new. There are no vacuum leaks. On the road the engine runs fine, good throttle response, boosts to 0.7Bar, and pulls good to redline.
Can someone with a turbo and Sport DME w/OBD verify the condition I have is not normal?? Any ideas on what/how I can check other components?? Thanks
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pkt1213 (10-14-2021)
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- Joe