odonnell

Most efficient solution is to just replace the vacuum lines with new ones

alpinewhite

Is there a way to do that using generic vacuum lines and not having to buy molded lines? I also still have the hard plastic lines on the 4mm vacuum lines too.

I'm reading this thread (https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...-hose-job.html) now.

Update: I think this kit will work for me: http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Pors...A-944-VAC.html

alpinewhite

I just had an idea. Please comment if it makes sense or not. As soon as I install the head on the block, I can do a leak-down test on each cylinder to confirm their integrity. Of course, that will only prove that the fire ring and valves are not leaking. The oil-to-water and vice versa integrity can't be tested with the leak-down test. How can I do that? Can I pressurize the radiator to see if it loses pressure? I would hate to put everything back together only to find out that the head gasket installation is bad.

Van

Yes, with the cam box off, all the valves will be closed, so you can do a leak down test without worrying about finding TDC. (It will also tell you the health of the rings.)

They do make radiator pressurizing kits specifically for testing cooling system integrity. Some also allow you to pull a vacuum on the cooling system to fill it more completely without bleeding.

Dougs951S

I wouldnt worry about it. The head gasket can only go on one way, and with a freshly machined hesd and a clean block surface there is really no reason it wouldnt be ok if you follow the torqueing procedure. In my opinion a leak down test is a waste of time. just get it running and let that confirm everythint is OK

alpinewhite

Once I have everything back together but BEFORE I change the rod bearings, I want to confirm that oil and water no longer mix. It would be futile to replace rod bearings if water and oil still mix. So, I plan to:

1. Drain all the oil (already did that).
2. Without firing up the motor, flush the cooling system. Put water for now.
3. Pull out fuel pump fuse.
4. Crank engine over to get rid of milkshake on rod and main bearings (how long should I do this?)
5. Put fuel pump fuse back in.
6. Start engine.
7. Run for X minutes (how long should I do this?).
8. Check for milkshake in oil. Hopefully there won't be any. Although, there might be some from the leftover milkshake that was in the rod and main bearings as well as oil passages.

If there is no milkshake, proceed to replace rod bearings.

Or, can I first use the car for a few days, then, change the oil and get the oil tested to check for bearing wear to confirm that the rod bearings are shot?

Dougs951S

You wont necessarily see elevated amounts of bearing material in your oil; the damage is more from "poisoning". The glycol penetrates the bearing material and reacts with the copper in it, essentially disintegrating it as it forms copper compounds via chemical reaction. It's simple: If you changed the head gasket and the oil cooler seals and followed procedure, you won't have oil and coolant mixing. All you need to do now is change the rod bearings, run the engine for 100 miles, then change the oil again.

alpinewhite

Would it be safe enough to fire up the motor so I can move the car in preparation for the rod bearing replacement? Is the crankshaft in grave danger right now?

Dougs951S

No. It's totally fine to run the engine to move the car. No danger.

alpinewhite

Today, I torqued the head to spec. I also replaced the driver side motor mount. I also cleaned the driver side of the block near where the AOS goes. I used rubber stoppers to plug the AOS holes.

snb13

You can also jack the driver's side up higher to help drain the block with the plug out. When I replaced my rod bearings due to milkshake, I stuck a garden hose in and flushed the block that way. Also, put in a little Dawn dish soap.

alpinewhite

Did you put the hose in the AOS holes on the side of the block? Isn't there risk of introducing rust to internal parts such as on the crankshaft?

snb13

No. I had milkshake in the coolant, not the oil. So I only flushed the water passages this way. For the oil ways, I'd probably put in fresh oil and a can of Seafoam. Drive it a bit, then do a normal oil change.

alpinewhite

Does this hose need to be a braided hose? I need to replace it. Why was it braided from the factory?

alpinewhite

Some searching revealed to me that this is called "blue cloth braided line". Apparently, older German cars including Porsches and Volkswagen Beetles used these. All I need to do is to replace these with hoses that are brake fluid-resistant. Off to AutoZone tomorrow to pick up some rubber hoses.