Just get the kit on pelican parts or Paragon, it's cheaper and it's an OEM quality part. Head nuts are cheap too.

Gasket doesn't call for copper, just install it normally and follow the torque specs. They're all over the internet.

 

Van, do you have a 944 head gasket replacement video? I've previously removed the cam tower but have never removed this car's intake manifold or head (I've done it on a Ford 460). Your engine assembly video should help in putting the head back on.

 

You check head flatness with a good straight edge and either look for light or try to slide very thin cellophane under it (like a cigarette pack wrapper).

Nuts are separate.

Torque = lot?? I don't have an actual value for you.

 

Had a spare few minutes tonight before dinner so I thought I'd try loosening the exhaust manifolds off the head. I was able to do so without PB Blaster (that's the good news). As I was doing so, some water came out (that's the bad news). I think that confirms that there was water in the combustion chamber. Do you guys agree?

 

Lol - I thought we'd already confirmed that back on page 1!

 

Head nut torque spec is 15 ft lbs, then 37 ft lbs, then 66 ft lbs. Follow the correct pattern and tighten every nut up to spec before moving on to the next tightening stage. Also be sure and lightly oil the head stud threads before installing.

Also, definitely replace the nuts and the washers, it's cheap insurance. Best place to get them is pelican parts. I like to use permatex copper spray ONLY on the engine block side of the gasket. This helps seal the deal if the block surface has any imperfections. I'd probably spray it on both sides actually unless you have the head professionally cleaned and skimmed (which I recommend. Actually, now is a perfect time for new valve guides, stem seals, and a valve job. It's relatively inexpensive; ~ 70 dollars in parts + ~200 in shop labor.)

 

I was in denial. Lol

I think I'll have the valve job done. Thanks.

 

Made some progress today. Ripped the J-tube in the process. I hope it's easy to find a replacement. I see that LindseyRacing has some (http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Porsche/LRA-944-JB.html)

Chocolate shake anyone?

Finally got to use the Vim bits I bought a few weeks ago. They worked great. I had to hammer them into the cam tower plugs to get a good grip. Why the heck are those torqued to tightly anyway? They're just covers, right?

I got the cam tower off and the intake manifold bolts loosened.

Exhaust manifold nuts are all off too but I can't separate it from the head. Looks like I need to unbolt the exhaust manifold downstream too, right?

In the interest of saving time, I was hoping to find out from the forum the minimum number of fasteners I need to remove for the intake manifold off the head. (I was hoping Van had a video )

Also, I can now use an impact gun to remove the cheesehead bolt on the cam sprocket so I can replace the seal. I couldn't do it by hand when it was on the car. And I didn't want to risk the possibility of the valves kissing the piston (I had it at TDC).

 

The intake is only held on with those 8 clearly visible allen head bolts through the flange. Taking it off takes literally 60 seconds.

 

I've loosened them already. After I remove them, would I be able to swing the intake manifold out of the way to have enough space the the head to be removed?

One more thing I thought of: Since the head is going to be out and I plan to do the rod bearings, I now have access to removing the pistons to get new rings put in. Is that something I should do since it'll all be open?

 

I'd leave the rings alone unless you're getting blowby. Also, there's a bolt that holds the intake manifold on near the oil filler.

 

If your cylinder bores are smooth, keep the rings in there. If they're scored up, well... then you have more to worry about than rings!

 

Ah yes. I saw that bolt earlier. Thanks.

There's no blow-by. In fact, it doesn't burn oil either.

I've just ordered a head gasket set, 10 head nuts and 10 washers, rod bearing set, 8 rod bolts, oil pan gasket, and a new J-boot.

As soon as I get the head off, I'll take it to a machine shop for a valve job. I'm assuming the valve job will include new valve guides and seals. I'll ask to make sure.

In the meantime, I'll continue removing the head while I wait for parts.

Thanks again. This groups makes it easier to wrench.

 

Since I haven't replaced the cam seal and the o-ring, I thought I'd work on removing the cheesehead bolt while the cam tower is off. Didn't go as planned. First, I tried the triple head tool with the impact gun but never got a good bite. It kept spinning even after I've tried "waking up" the bolt with a hammer. So, I resorted to cutting a slit to try to put a slotted head bit with an impact gun.

I began using the impact gun with a slot head but the piece broke off. So, I decided to grind it all off. After I ground most of it off, I was finally able to remove the contraption by rocking a 1.25" wrench up and down to take it off.

Then, the remaining stud is still on there tight. I had to use Vise-Grips to take it off.

I removed the seal with my nice seal puller/installer set from Private Brand Tools.

The last pic is a pic of the camshaft. Looks pretty good, IMO. No flat spots.

 

Holy cut bolts, Batman!

Next time, just use a drill bit in a drill. A drill bit that's slightly larger than the shank of the bolt will remove the head, and then all those parts just slide off the shaft (and you'll be able to thread out the rest of the bolt with your fingers). And you get to reuse the distributor rotor mount!

(Oh, and a word to the wise, although you now know this, never, NEVER use an impact wrench to loosen a triple-square. Always use a beaker bar. For that bolt, I use a 32mm wrench on the hex and my triple-square on a breaker bar - I line them up so I can squeeze them together like scissors to break the torque. I was told these bolts are called "cheese-heads" because they have the strength of cream cheese...)