Van

Because your car was an overheat condition, there might not be a specific mark of failure on the head gasket - the heat likely caused caused some expanding/twisting of the head, and the gap opened up between the head and the head gasket.

You might be able to find a "clean" spot on the metal cylinder rim where the coolant washed it clean...

When I've blown turbo head gaskets, usually you see at split in that metal rim - but that's usually caused by overboost or a lean tune).

alpinewhite

Today, I dropped off the head at the machine shop. A rudimentary check for flatness was done and he said that it doesn't appear to be warped. I asked if he'd surface it and he said he will as little as possible until it's smooth. He later called and said that I need exhaust guides but the the intake guides are ok.

I also cleaned the mating surface on the block with a razor blade and a little bit of Scotch-Brite. It's not perfectly shiny but I think that's because of the pitting on the aluminum casting. It feels perfectly smooth to the touch, though. I especially made sure the fire rings were smooth. I took close-up pics of all 4 cylinder walls.

Since I had time, I removed as much carbon build-up that was on top of the pistons. I used a razor blade and some spray carb/choke cleaner (Gumout). I hope that was ok.

Dougs951S

The bores look good.

alpinewhite

Machine shop hasn't called yet so I thought I'd remove the headers in preparation for installing them on the head prior to putting the head on (Van's way). Also, I thought I'd clean up the side of the block off the baked-on oil. All this time, the block has always been black to me. Now, it's the color of aluminum. :-)

The passenger side motor mount was so easily accessible that I thought I'd replace it while it was out in the open (I already had the parts).

odonnell

Another good thing to do is install stainless steel exhaust studs with copper nuts, the kit is about $40 from Paragon parts or rennbay. Slippery slope of WYIT jobs...

Van

You should be able to pick up the M8 exhaust nuts at your local NAPA: https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p...1/ATM059129601

alpinewhite

My exhaust nuts came off pretty easily. I didn't have to use penetrant or anything. Is it possible that they've been replaced? I'll stick a magnet on them tomorrow to see if they're steel.

How easy is it to remove the studs? Do I simply put two nuts jammed onto each other and work it out with an open-end wrench? What are the odds of breaking them?

Looks like the kit from Paragon comes with a hex wrench. I guess the studs have a female hex opening in them. http://www.paragon-products.com/Stai.../rb-164.21.htm

Speaking of slippery slopes, I spent half of today's work with my parts washer (for the removable parts), a spray bottle of degreaser, a spray bottle of water, and a parts cleaning brush. I feel that if only I could take everything apart, I'd remove every grease/oil spot on every square inch of the motor and chassis. Heck, I even removed all the oil stains on the side of the engine carrier that'll be facing the block. That will never be visible unless the engine carrier is removed. I guess this is what it would be like to restore a priced possession such a Dino, 365GTB, or 300SL.

BTW, are these rectangular holes paths for the oil to go down back into the crankcase from the head? I was doing my best not to get water in them in fears that I'll get water in the crankcase. I know, I know, there's already a ton of water in there from the milkshake but I've drained that already. :-)

Van

Correct, the square opening are oil drain passages from the head.

The nuts are only copper coated steel to prevent corrosion.

Studs should come out with double nutting them. But, if they all seem good, why change them?

alpinewhite

Van, I trust what you say with respect to torquing the head but I just saw this on the FSM. Is your method (90-degree rotation) preferred over the torque values mentioned in the FSM?

I also picked up the head from the machine shop. He said he had so take 0.006" off to get it smooth. He had to install new exhaust valve guides and teflon-type valve seals. Intake guides were good. All the valves and springs were good. Total price: $246.

Van

There is an updated spec in the FSM (maybe a supplement?) that is 20NM for the first stage, then 90 degree torque angle and then a second 90 degree torque angle.

S2s are 20NM, then 60 degree torque angle and then 90 degree torque angle.

alpinewhite

Installed the oil cooler and put the upper sway bar mount back on. I feel that the alignment tool was unnecessary as there was something sticking out of the block that lined up the OPRV. Also installed the exhaust manifold onto the head. I put the head on the block but haven't put on the head nuts yet. I yanked out the air-oil-separator (AOS) and oil is leaking around it (really wet). I hope that's the oil I see near the flywheel and not oil coming from the rear main seal. I'd like to clean all the oil on that side of the block but am afraid of water entering the holes where the AOS was. Any ideas? Rubber plugs? The pic of the AOS is after I've cleaned it up in the parts washer.

Dougs951S

good work! You should replace those AOS seals and probably the seal on the filler cap as well.

alpinewhite

Thanks. I will replace the AOS seals per the respondents' recommendation. I saw that the seals are 20mm x 5mm (OD x thickness). I wonder if the local auto parts places have them. Otherwise, I'd have to order them online again. Will a regular o-ring of the right size be ample for this application?

odonnell

Get the oem seals. I used Victor reinz ones and they both tore slightly during installation, they were too soft. They're not expensive.

alpinewhite

Ok. Thanks for that tip. I changed my order accordingly.

I also bought 2 of these rubber stoppers (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-...8228/204273788) from Home Depot. I'm gonna plug up the holes left by removing the AOS tomorrow and will remove as much oil as I can from the driver side of the block. I'll be waiting for parts anyway. I'll also install the new head nuts.

BTW, I noticed that some of my vacuum lines (the bigger ones) are filled with air/oil milkshake. What's the best way to get rid of that? Is yanking them out and flushing them the way to go or should I just let that get absorbed into the intake manifold once the motor is up and running again?