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So, I'm wondering if the high oil pressure could be due to an oil galley passage being blocked. Seems odd since I cleaned them really well but I suppose it's certainly possible. It is a new oil pressure sender and I cleaned the connections really well before installing.
I think the high oil pressure has something to do with the crankshaft seal leak though since it doesn't start leaking until the engine has been running for a few minutes. I did not replace the oil pump drive gear when I replaced the front crank seal - maybe the groove was worse than I thought and that is adding to the leak?
I tried pulling the DME temp sensor out most of the way (didn't pull it completely since I don't want coolant leaking all over) and tried to re-torque it to the correct spec. No dice. Then tried making it really tight. Also no dice. Guess a new washer is in order. Or maybe another new sensor. Perhaps if I jack up the car from the driver's side I can minimize the coolant loss so I don't have to drain it any from the system. Bummer since that's the only leak in the coolant system!
Still haven't taken the maiden voyage yet. I'm hesitant to take it out of the driveway until I get the oil leak sorted, and I didn't feel like tearing into it today. I did give the car a wash though since it had quite a few months of dust on it. Much nicer having a clean car in the garage.
Did you use the alignment tool to install OPRV?. I know it's got to be frustrating, hopefully something simple. I wouldn't take that front seal out yet until you find out the source of the high oil pressure. I have quite the opposite going on regarding my '88 944 that we justinstalled the rebuilt engine back in, starting for the first time Sunday, started after a couple cranks, but after 2-3 seconds , no oil pressure showing and lifters where noisy, shut off immediately, bummed to say the least. Hoping it is oil pump inner sleeve not seated enough, already checked OPRV, which seems fine.
No I didn't, but I had my reason for why I didn't. I installed the OPRV with the engine out of the car, so I was able to turn the block on its side for the installation. I threaded it in completely by hand, torqued all the bolts on the housing, then threaded it back out back by hand to ensure it slid in and out without binding. That seemed like a good test to confirm it was installed correctly.
I need to get some time out in the garage to check my gauge and make sure I didn't make a dumb mistake and hook it up backward. Pretty sure I didn't, but I'll double check before I buy any parts.
I'm using a URO oil pressure sender. I've been doing some reading that says they may not be so good and to only use the VDO one. The VDO one is like 5X the price of the URO one - I assume there is a reason why.
Hello,
Beautiful build, congrats! By chance, do you have a list of all the hardware you purchased to complete your build. I am in the tear down phase with my 86 engine. Love the look of all the new zinc hardware. Any help will truly be appreciated! Thank you for your time!
If you have access to a direct reading gauge -take off your sender and install the direct reading mechanical gauge, you will get a accurate reading to verify oil pressure. I was talking to Mike at Lindsey racing on Monday about my '88's no oil pressure after complete rebuild issue[solved BTW ]. He said if reading is correct fairly certain it is a OPRV issue. BTW have you tried different one?
Ah ha! So I finally had some time to get back out into the garage and take a closer look at the car. As it turns out, I’m a dummy and despite my “double checking” the wiring connections I apparently had them switched! Now my oil pressure is normal again, which is great because that means I didn’t screw something up during the rebuild.
I still have my oil leak at the front crank seal, which means I need to buy a new oil pump drive gear and get that straightened out. I’m not sure why I cheaped out and didn’t just replace it during the rebuild, but it really didn’t look too bad. I guess looks can be deceiving.
In other news, I took a new job in the Milwaukee, WI area so the Mrs. and I will be packing up here in Tampa, FL and heading north. That’s happening in less than two weeks so who knows when I’ll finally finish this car. Perhaps I should make it my new goal to see how many different states I can move the car to before it’s completed!
By chance, do you have a list of all the hardware you purchased to complete your build. I am in the tear down phase with my 86 engine. Love the look of all the new zinc hardware. Any help will truly be appreciated! Thank you for your time!
I do have a list - it’s probably 95-98% complete. I tried attaching the Excel file to this post. Let’s see if it works...
Florida to Wisconsin with Winter coming, that's quite a adjustment! Glad you found the problem and it was simple. I moved from Fla. to Minnesota once for a job but only lasted a year, and went back to Fla!
Haven’t updated in a while so here’s a small one. Been in Wisconsin now for about 6 weeks. I’m renting an apartment that has an underground parking garage but it’s not a space to really work on the car, so I’ve also rented a storage unit about 10 miles from where I live. I was able to find one that had electric and is a 12 x 20, so it’s a decent amount of space to keep all my tools, chemicals, etc. plus the car. I’ve been to the unit a few times to work on the car (remember the oil leak) but it’s tough to do more than 1-2 hours of work because it’s cold up here!
I tore into the front of the engine (re: I removed all the belts and stuff to get to the oil pump drive sleeve) and found that sure enough, the groove worn into the sleeve was worse than I thought when I stupidly reinstalled it the first time.
I installed a new sleeve and new O-ring, but kept the same crank seal since it was just replaced. I put everything back together and guess what? I still have an oil leak...
What do we think here - do I need to remove the oil pump, install another new crank seal and re-seal the oil pump to the block with Loctite 574? I’m pretty sure the leak is coming from the seal/drive sleeve area but it’s possible it’s leaking from the oil pump instead. This is getting rather frustrating at this point.
Also, I replaced my coolant temp sensor (had a leak there as well) and installed another new crush washer, torqued appropriately and that seems to be weeping a bit as well. I guess I’ll need to remove it and maybe use a little RTV sealant on the washer or something. I’m not sure why my car hates me at this point. Maybe it doesn’t like the cold?
For some reason, I can't seem to add a picture of the oil pump drive sleeves in the previous post, so here it is by itself.
As you can see, the one on the left has a pretty decent groove in it. I guess I wanted to "believe" it wasn't so bad when I reused it.
Also, I assume the fact the sleeves are different is okay and that the one on the right is just an updated version. It is a Porsche branded part since every place I tried to order the OEM equivalent from kept telling me it was out of stock.
I’ve been to the unit a few times to work on the car (remember the oil leak) but it’s tough to do more than 1-2 hours of work because it’s cold up here!
Justin -
I had the same problem working in an insulated garage in Jackson WY, where our winters often dropped the outside temps into the -25F range.
I used a propane space heater rated for 30,000 BTUs. You need to keep the door partly open and set the heater so it's intake is outside air. I also strongly recommend buying a CO alarm before using one. But it did keep the garage warm enough my tools didn't freeze to my hands
I used a propane space heater rated for 30,000 BTUs. You need to keep the door partly open and set the heater so it's intake is outside air. I also strongly recommend buying a CO alarm before using one. But it did keep the garage warm enough my tools didn't freeze to my hands
I bought a large electric space heater that can run off a single 15A circuit since I don't have access to the breaker if it blows. I was hoping if I kept the door shut it would warm the space a bit more, but unfortunately it's not warming the area quite as much as I'd like. Though it does allow me to warm my hands and feet in front of it. Perhaps I'll have to look into a propane unit in the new year...or just wait until spring...
Haven’t updated in a while so here’s a small one. Been in Wisconsin now for about 6 weeks. I’m renting an apartment that has an underground parking garage but it’s not a space to really work on the car, so I’ve also rented a storage unit about 10 miles from where I live. I was able to find one that had electric and is a 12 x 20, so it’s a decent amount of space to keep all my tools, chemicals, etc. plus the car. I’ve been to the unit a few times to work on the car (remember the oil leak) but it’s tough to do more than 1-2 hours of work because it’s cold up here!
I tore into the front of the engine (re: I removed all the belts and stuff to get to the oil pump drive sleeve) and found that sure enough, the groove worn into the sleeve was worse than I thought when I stupidly reinstalled it the first time.
I installed a new sleeve and new O-ring, but kept the same crank seal since it was just replaced. I put everything back together and guess what? I still have an oil leak...
What do we think here - do I need to remove the oil pump, install another new crank seal and re-seal the oil pump to the block with Loctite 574? I’m pretty sure the leak is coming from the seal/drive sleeve area but it’s possible it’s leaking from the oil pump instead. This is getting rather frustrating at this point.
Also, I replaced my coolant temp sensor (had a leak there as well) and installed another new crush washer, torqued appropriately and that seems to be weeping a bit as well. I guess I’ll need to remove it and maybe use a little RTV sealant on the washer or something. I’m not sure why my car hates me at this point. Maybe it doesn’t like the cold?
Justin
I would replace the oil seal and would also micrometer the used and new oil pump gear to determine if both have the same OD. If the OD of the new gear is less than the old gear, then that can be a source of the leak
A question, can the oil seal be installed only one way or can it be rotated and installed 180 degree from the previous way?
I would replace the oil seal and would also micrometer the used and new oil pump gear to determine if both have the same OD. If the OD of the new gear is less than the old gear, then that can be a source of the leak
That's good thinking. I suppose I should have done that before but again, it was Porsche part so I figured there wouldn't be a need. Couldn't hurt to double check before just blindly replacing the seal again.
Originally Posted by T&T Racing
A question, can the oil seal be installed only one way or can it be rotated and installed 180 degree from the previous way?
Do you mean rotated such that the lip of the seal is facing the front of the car or rotated axially around the crank snout?
10-01-2017, 01:03 PM
