Dougs951S

Question for all you smart guys, the factory says to use thread locker on all water pump hardware. In general I believe this is a bad idea and only put a drop on the studs as they go into the block, and a drop on the two lock nuts holding the belt deflecting bar to the pump. The 4 nuts on the studs and the 7 bolts get antiseize paste, the green factory gasket goes on dry, and I button it up. Do any of ya'll do it differently, and if so; why?

Humboldtgrin

I use high temp locktite to put the studs in the block, I use high tack sealant spray on the water pump gasket only on the pump side, and I use blue locktite for the rest of the hardware. All the bolts and threads have to be clean and dry for locktite to work properly.

John_AZ

The "GREEN water pump gasket is designed to go on without sealant.

I installed a green gasket--no sealer-- and within a couple of weeks it leaked. I may have caused the problem somehow.

I used a black WP gasket next and coated the gasket with a thin coat of aviation gasket sealer on both sides. Perfect!

Understand if you use a sealer, especially on the block side it will require cleaning to get the sealer off.

J_AZ

V2Rocket

ive never used loctite on a 944 water pump job, on a few dozen cars,
but i've never had to replace a stud either...

ramius665

I never use loctite on WP jobs and I've done quite a few as well. Never had a problem with leaking. But the implied task is ensuring the mating surface is completely clean and free of old gasket material.

I've replaced the studs and used loctite red to hold the studs in place. No issues but I'm not looking forward to the fun of replacing them in the future if they need it.

V2Rocket

+ WD40 and scotchbrite

thomasmryan

acetone and a copper scraper with the studs out.

I used the white Teflon Loctite on the studs and a dry green gasket.

the water pump that was removed was 22 years old so the block mating surface was pristine.

Dougs951S

Wow, so none of you use antiseize?

btw red loctite is why im currently in the position of having to drill out 6 broken studs because the last person to change the WP used red loctite over 25 years ago and I thought it was just rust holding them in...needlessly to say they'll get ONLY a drop of blue loctite on the new studs.

Van

I use antiseize on the water pump hardware - but never thread locker.

if you have to remove broken studs, use the welding method. It's quicker and reduces the risk of damaging the block.

Dougs951S

Unfortunately van my MIG welder is 3 hours away and I have no way,of going to grab it

Tom M'Guinn

I've seen that reference in the FSM, but was never really sure if they meant all bolts/nuts or if they had one in mind. I've seen motors with pumps believed to be original and they didn't have locktite on the fasteners, but did have it on the threads that go into the block. I've never used it on any of those fasteners (nor on the studs in the block) and have never had an issue. Having drilled out my share of those little studs, I'd never put locktite in the block. Would rather have 1 in a 100 leak than drill out 99 of a 100.

Dougs951S

Good point Tom. do you guys foll9w the FSM recommendation of loctite on the nuts holding the belt deflector bar to the pump?

Tom M'Guinn

Never have. Does the manual specifically say to do that, or are you referencing the general locktite 270 note in the torque specs? I ask because I don't think the rail even existed when those torque specs were first published, and the nuts that come with the rail are lock-nuts. And I don't think the TSB announcing the updated pump/rail say anything about locktite.

Van

Yes, actually. I use blue on those little flange nuts for the rail. I had one of them vibrate off once and break a timing belt.

Tom M'Guinn

Yes, the TSB says to use it even with the locking nuts? If so, I guess I'll start doing it -- locktite on a nut just makes it a bolt in the worst case, unlike those studs in the block...