Summer build thread: Megasquirt and more...
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Summer build thread: Megasquirt and more...
Edit: for those interested in just MegaSquirt stuff, it picks up after page 2.
I have a few months between finishing my undergrad and starting full time work, so I'm going to finally have time to do the projects I've been putting off. Some are bigger than others, with the biggest being a full conversion to Megasquirt, which for those who aren't familiar, is a standalone EMS. I probably won't get to all of these before August but I'm going to do what I can.
To-do list:
Most of these are small afternoon jobs that I've been putting off because I've been so busy, it's going to feel good to finally get around to giving this car some of the TLC it's been missing out on while I've been daily driving it.
For the Megasquirt install, I've been talking with Dougs951S for months now about a good setup (as his car had been running it very well). This is the current concept, I'm open to any suggestions about how this could be better. I'm familiar with general tuning concepts but have never done anything like this before. There are two main reasons I'm going MS. 1) performance gains. I got a sweet taste of what a quality tune + better hardware can do when I was running Josh's NA-Tune, and I want to couple that experience with modern COP (well, CNP) ignition and a more robust controller. 2) reliability and sustainability. My harness is very ratty, and the Bosch Motronic parts are simply tired. I've swapped or upgraded most of them for better condition or newer units and it's a fool's game IMO. Even when running perfectly, it's decades old and I've been burned. The new setup will have a new harness, and all new sensors. If there ever is a no-start, it will be very easy to troubleshoot because MS has diagnostic and datalogging capabilities in addition to realtime sensor readouts.
On to the substance of the install:
Probably missing a couple things but that's the general layout. No more DME relay, reference sensors, AFM, DME, cap and rotor, and old sketchy harness The total is around $1000 right now including a dedicated POS Win98 laptop I can keep in the car and all software. I think this total cost is very fair given the outcome. I'm comfortable with wiring and plan on soldering (western union splice) and heatshrinking all junctions, and wrapping everything with really nice heat resistant wrap.
I have a few months between finishing my undergrad and starting full time work, so I'm going to finally have time to do the projects I've been putting off. Some are bigger than others, with the biggest being a full conversion to Megasquirt, which for those who aren't familiar, is a standalone EMS. I probably won't get to all of these before August but I'm going to do what I can.
To-do list:
- Replace under-hood insulation pads
- Locate and fix exterior water leak. turned into repairing rust in battery tray, done
- Install this new speedo cable that doesn't wiggle at low speeds
- Inspect and potentially adjust clutch throw edit: done
- Treat rust forming on collapsed jack points
- Build or order a new alternator tensioning strut done
- Install new upper strut mounts in front in progress...
- Repaint Fuchs, polish and seal lips
- Of course, get Megasquirt up and running. it's alive!
Most of these are small afternoon jobs that I've been putting off because I've been so busy, it's going to feel good to finally get around to giving this car some of the TLC it's been missing out on while I've been daily driving it.
For the Megasquirt install, I've been talking with Dougs951S for months now about a good setup (as his car had been running it very well). This is the current concept, I'm open to any suggestions about how this could be better. I'm familiar with general tuning concepts but have never done anything like this before. There are two main reasons I'm going MS. 1) performance gains. I got a sweet taste of what a quality tune + better hardware can do when I was running Josh's NA-Tune, and I want to couple that experience with modern COP (well, CNP) ignition and a more robust controller. 2) reliability and sustainability. My harness is very ratty, and the Bosch Motronic parts are simply tired. I've swapped or upgraded most of them for better condition or newer units and it's a fool's game IMO. Even when running perfectly, it's decades old and I've been burned. The new setup will have a new harness, and all new sensors. If there ever is a no-start, it will be very easy to troubleshoot because MS has diagnostic and datalogging capabilities in addition to realtime sensor readouts.
On to the substance of the install:
- MicroSquirt controller with 8' semi-terminated harness
- Ignition trigger: 36-1 trigger wheel on crank from GoingSuperFast, hall effect sensor from DIYAutoTune
- Ignition: LSx coils running wasted spark
- Fuel injectors: haven't decided, but I know they will need to be high-z for MicroSquirt to drive the bank of 4
- Air metering: 1 bar MAP reading from the manifold, IAT reading from right before throttle body
- Coolant temp: stock unit
- TPS from 951, or something.
- Idle control: would love to minimize vac lines and delete all idle control valves, although I am open to a fast idle type.
- Fuel pump controller by dedicated relay, activated by MicroSquirt above 200 RPM
- AEM wideband O2
Probably missing a couple things but that's the general layout. No more DME relay, reference sensors, AFM, DME, cap and rotor, and old sketchy harness The total is around $1000 right now including a dedicated POS Win98 laptop I can keep in the car and all software. I think this total cost is very fair given the outcome. I'm comfortable with wiring and plan on soldering (western union splice) and heatshrinking all junctions, and wrapping everything with really nice heat resistant wrap.
Last edited by odonnell; 10-09-2015 at 06:37 PM.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Oh nice! Would they work for a custom AC delete alternator location? It's in the stock AC compressor position, give or take. I was thinking of making one from Heim joints, threaded rods, and a turnbuckle. But let me know how much you want for one. Right now I literally have a modified piece of angle iron keeping everything snug and it's time to do better...
I definitely plan to. I suggest reading up on the controller, there is a lot of online documentation.
Anyway I got to work and found my water leak... battery tray. Got some quality rust converter, bondo, and bedliner. I plan on removing (or moving aside) the carpet and seat on the passenger side tomorrow to make sure I'm still ok on the floorboards. If not I may be searching for a new tub, I'm honestly a little worried because the rust on the jack points is worse than I thought and I can feel it inside them. They were bent and warped open when I bought the car and I probably made it worse over the years.
Anyway I got to work and found my water leak... battery tray. Got some quality rust converter, bondo, and bedliner. I plan on removing (or moving aside) the carpet and seat on the passenger side tomorrow to make sure I'm still ok on the floorboards. If not I may be searching for a new tub, I'm honestly a little worried because the rust on the jack points is worse than I thought and I can feel it inside them. They were bent and warped open when I bought the car and I probably made it worse over the years.
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#8
Burning Brakes
Just an FYI on something that not many people realize, on early cars the aux air valve is power by the fuel pump power rail, so if you end up keeping the valve and eliminating the DME relay, you will have to change its power source.
I am definitely interested in doing this to my car someday. Would you be open to sharing your tune with others that would like to do this on an NA? You might even be able to monetize it by selling a kit with all the necessary accessories and a starting tune.
I am definitely interested in doing this to my car someday. Would you be open to sharing your tune with others that would like to do this on an NA? You might even be able to monetize it by selling a kit with all the necessary accessories and a starting tune.
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just an FYI on something that not many people realize, on early cars the aux air valve is power by the fuel pump power rail, so if you end up keeping the valve and eliminating the DME relay, you will have to change its power source.
I am definitely interested in doing this to my car someday. Would you be open to sharing your tune with others that would like to do this on an NA? You might even be able to monetize it by selling a kit with all the necessary accessories and a starting tune.
I am definitely interested in doing this to my car someday. Would you be open to sharing your tune with others that would like to do this on an NA? You might even be able to monetize it by selling a kit with all the necessary accessories and a starting tune.
I will definitely share my maps - in fact I've found a lot of ignition maps from a guy who converted his 924S to EDIS. I honestly don't know much about tuning except the basics but I'm sure with advice from experienced tuners and trial and error, it will come out great.
#10
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Oh nice! Would they work for a custom AC delete alternator location? It's in the stock AC compressor position, give or take. I was thinking of making one from Heim joints, threaded rods, and a turnbuckle. But let me know how much you want for one. Right now I literally have a modified piece of angle iron keeping everything snug and it's time to do better...
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
PM sent.
If I end up making my own, this is the idea:
It's about $45 in parts from online vendors (threaded turnbuckle rod and two heim joints, one right handed and one left handed).
If I end up making my own, this is the idea:
It's about $45 in parts from online vendors (threaded turnbuckle rod and two heim joints, one right handed and one left handed).
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I had to cut out quite a bit to get to solid metal, it looks like this was "fixed" at some point by a PO and was just covered up instead of treated. **** my life. I'm nowhere near done yet, it's been raining every day (apparently TX is the new Seattle) so I'm being limited by that because I don't have a garage to work in right now. The white stuff in the picture is from rust converter I have been applying.
#15
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Thread Starter
Thanks guys. It was actually really covert because of all the goopy sealant covering it. Didn't catch it until I dumped a bunch of water in the tray and saw it vortexing down in that area. Gah!
Current plan is to finish cleaning it with steel wool, wire wheel, and rust converter/treater. Then, fiberglass it to isolate the bare metal and lastly apply bedliner. What worries me is the cavity behind the hole on the the fender... I stuck my finger in and pulled out a bunch of rust flakes.
Current plan is to finish cleaning it with steel wool, wire wheel, and rust converter/treater. Then, fiberglass it to isolate the bare metal and lastly apply bedliner. What worries me is the cavity behind the hole on the the fender... I stuck my finger in and pulled out a bunch of rust flakes.