odonnell

Edit: for those interested in just MegaSquirt stuff, it picks up after page 2.

I have a few months between finishing my undergrad and starting full time work, so I'm going to finally have time to do the projects I've been putting off. Some are bigger than others, with the biggest being a full conversion to Megasquirt, which for those who aren't familiar, is a standalone EMS. I probably won't get to all of these before August but I'm going to do what I can.

To-do list:

• Replace under-hood insulation pads
• Locate and fix exterior water leak. turned into repairing rust in battery tray, done
• Install this new speedo cable that doesn't wiggle at low speeds
• Inspect and potentially adjust clutch throw edit: done
• Treat rust forming on collapsed jack points
• Build or order a new alternator tensioning strut done
• Install new upper strut mounts in front in progress...
• Repaint Fuchs, polish and seal lips
• Of course, get Megasquirt up and running. it's alive!

Most of these are small afternoon jobs that I've been putting off because I've been so busy, it's going to feel good to finally get around to giving this car some of the TLC it's been missing out on while I've been daily driving it.

For the Megasquirt install, I've been talking with Dougs951S for months now about a good setup (as his car had been running it very well). This is the current concept, I'm open to any suggestions about how this could be better. I'm familiar with general tuning concepts but have never done anything like this before. There are two main reasons I'm going MS. 1) performance gains. I got a sweet taste of what a quality tune + better hardware can do when I was running Josh's NA-Tune, and I want to couple that experience with modern COP (well, CNP) ignition and a more robust controller. 2) reliability and sustainability. My harness is very ratty, and the Bosch Motronic parts are simply tired. I've swapped or upgraded most of them for better condition or newer units and it's a fool's game IMO. Even when running perfectly, it's decades old and I've been burned. The new setup will have a new harness, and all new sensors. If there ever is a no-start, it will be very easy to troubleshoot because MS has diagnostic and datalogging capabilities in addition to realtime sensor readouts.

On to the substance of the install:

• MicroSquirt controller with 8' semi-terminated harness
• Ignition trigger: 36-1 trigger wheel on crank from GoingSuperFast, hall effect sensor from DIYAutoTune
• Ignition: LSx coils running wasted spark
• Fuel injectors: haven't decided, but I know they will need to be high-z for MicroSquirt to drive the bank of 4
• Air metering: 1 bar MAP reading from the manifold, IAT reading from right before throttle body
• Coolant temp: stock unit
• TPS from 951, or something.
• Idle control: would love to minimize vac lines and delete all idle control valves, although I am open to a fast idle type.
• Fuel pump controller by dedicated relay, activated by MicroSquirt above 200 RPM
• AEM wideband O2

Probably missing a couple things but that's the general layout. No more DME relay, reference sensors, AFM, DME, cap and rotor, and old sketchy harness The total is around $1000 right now including a dedicated POS Win98 laptop I can keep in the car and all software. I think this total cost is very fair given the outcome. I'm comfortable with wiring and plan on soldering (western union splice) and heatshrinking all junctions, and wrapping everything with really nice heat resistant wrap.

V2Rocket

If you need an alternator strut I have 4-5 in a box...

coldfuzion76

Please document the microsquirt install! I've debated that exact setup. Actually already have a set of LS1 coils handy.

odonnell

Oh nice! Would they work for a custom AC delete alternator location? It's in the stock AC compressor position, give or take. I was thinking of making one from Heim joints, threaded rods, and a turnbuckle. But let me know how much you want for one. Right now I literally have a modified piece of angle iron keeping everything snug and it's time to do better...

I definitely plan to. I suggest reading up on the controller, there is a lot of online documentation.

Anyway I got to work and found my water leak... battery tray. Got some quality rust converter, bondo, and bedliner. I plan on removing (or moving aside) the carpet and seat on the passenger side tomorrow to make sure I'm still ok on the floorboards. If not I may be searching for a new tub, I'm honestly a little worried because the rust on the jack points is worse than I thought and I can feel it inside them. They were bent and warped open when I bought the car and I probably made it worse over the years.

Tiger03447

Glad to hear that, Spencer. I might need one,myself..mine is probably rusted together in a single unit by now. doesn't want to come apart at ALL.

Tiger03447

Keep us in the loop, on this one, Michael..seems like a logical step.

azbanks

I have a brand new set of smartfire 1000 cc Hi-Z injectors for sale. New in box.
I need to go bigger for my project.

$200 shipped

konakat

Just an FYI on something that not many people realize, on early cars the aux air valve is power by the fuel pump power rail, so if you end up keeping the valve and eliminating the DME relay, you will have to change its power source.

I am definitely interested in doing this to my car someday. Would you be open to sharing your tune with others that would like to do this on an NA? You might even be able to monetize it by selling a kit with all the necessary accessories and a starting tune.

odonnell

I definitely will

Hmm, those are a lot bigger than I was planning on using. I'll let you know though, thanks.

Yes, I'm planning on removing it as well, and using a fast idle solenoid or simply tuning around the issue (richen mixture and advance timing at cold idle). The MicroSquirt unit needs to share the same relayed power as the fuel rail, so my current plan is to put these on a simple main relay that is activated by the ignition switch. MicroSquirt can activate relays, so I'm just going to run the fuel pump from a dedicated relay in a more accessible position than stock.

I will definitely share my maps - in fact I've found a lot of ignition maps from a guy who converted his 924S to EDIS. I honestly don't know much about tuning except the basics but I'm sure with advice from experienced tuners and trial and error, it will come out great.

V2Rocket

yes it will work, i had ac delete for a few years using the broadfoot bracket.

odonnell

PM sent.

If I end up making my own, this is the idea:




It's about $45 in parts from online vendors (threaded turnbuckle rod and two heim joints, one right handed and one left handed).

odonnell

I had to cut out quite a bit to get to solid metal, it looks like this was "fixed" at some point by a PO and was just covered up instead of treated. **** my life. I'm nowhere near done yet, it's been raining every day (apparently TX is the new Seattle) so I'm being limited by that because I don't have a garage to work in right now. The white stuff in the picture is from rust converter I have been applying.

ramius665

Ugh, that's a pretty big hole. Don't envy you but it looks like you're making progress.

Arominus

I pulled my battery and cleaned under it today because of this thread. Good luck Sausage!

odonnell

Thanks guys. It was actually really covert because of all the goopy sealant covering it. Didn't catch it until I dumped a bunch of water in the tray and saw it vortexing down in that area. Gah!

Current plan is to finish cleaning it with steel wool, wire wheel, and rust converter/treater. Then, fiberglass it to isolate the bare metal and lastly apply bedliner. What worries me is the cavity behind the hole on the the fender... I stuck my finger in and pulled out a bunch of rust flakes.