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Alright, so it is possible one or two of you want to know *why* the 2 rhs early struts. Here's why:
Wilson needs struts as the existing Sachs are worn out.
The problem with late 944 is they are sealed, replacement is a lot more money then early 944 & the selection is not as wide.
Yes the Koni conversion is truly AWESOME, I have done it but it's $800 Canadian. I don't have that sort of cake. So after many hours of contemplation, this is what I am going to attempt:
1- cut the tops off my late struts and cut the tops off above the lower spring perch.
2- make a tool to remove the early caps & remove early struts (if anyone has suggestions, please holler!)
3- ensure the strut inserts fit well in the late bodies.
4- measure the amount of required length for early tube & cap.
5- cut & tack weld early top to late bottoms, double check alignment & compression of insert.
6- fully mig weld. paint. and BE FREE!
(note: why 2 rhs: because I found them for a really great price, they have Porsche decals, but many other stickers/decals... as though they have been sold wholesale a few times. It appears the only difference between R & L is what side the anchor point for the hydraulic brake line is... something that can be remounted, with a welder (this needs to be confirmed). The price was 40% of what the koni conversion would be.)
+1. It might be tempting but it'll be awful on pavement. Plus from what I've read, putting a 944 transaxle back together the right way is tricky and requires specialized tools and jigs.
If you only drive on lose surfaces it's ok, not perfect.
But if you have to make a U-turn or park on dry tarmac you will definitely feel it.
And don't go wilde in wide rear tires.
Here is how I did it on my BMW e36 track car,
only for gravel use.
Early start. -16.6 F / -27 C with windchill. Wilson wanted to, but just couldn't start with the heavy engine oil & not having a block heater.
But with a quick boost, he started & was rock solid all morning. Met up with my bearded brother Brian & we went slipping around in the mountains. Only had 1 close call when I was driving us back. The rhs steer tire dropped off the edge of the road, but the reflexes kicked in and saved the day... it can be tough to gauge where the actual edge is under the snow!
If you only drive on lose surfaces it's ok, not perfect.
But if you have to make a U-turn or park on dry tarmac you will definitely feel it.
And don't go wilde in wide rear tires.
Here is how I did it on my BMW e36 track car,
only for gravel use.
Welded in situ on both sides
Thanks for the pic bro, I used to have a welded rear end in my daily driven Jeep. I got used to it's handling quirks; 1st understeer, then oversteer.
I do have fears about regretting the move however.
My original thought was no big deal, I have 2 transaxles, so I can weld 1 & leave the other alone. Swap them every 6 months depending on what I'd doing...
but then I scour the 'net, and read a LOT of 944 people say "don't!". Many of these people have a lot more track experience than I do. Makes me wonder if I should just rely on great tires & developing driving skill.
I would not doo it either. But go for a lsd, with not more than 60 % lock.
I think that the rear grip is too much fore the diff. If you lock it more than 60%
Been driving with my 2 buddies today & yesturday... we all agree that for snow & ice, the 40 less hp makes NO difference in performance. We also determined no locker is required for the diff, just great tires & driving practise.
Put about 70 pounds of engine parts in the back to balance the car & crush the ice for traction.
Damn, I had to spend $8.00 on hot water at the car wash just to get the snoW off the wheels, the car shakes terribly with that stuff packed in and throwing the balance off.
This last picture demonstrates well the foothills terrain where I live. One side is the flat, straight prairies (boring) & the other side is the curvy then jagged mountains (not boring).
01-07-2016, 10:41 AM
