HICKS

I cut open my oil filter and saw some bearing material. I ordered the parts and drug my ***, and ended up spinning one.

Do it sooner than later.

lovemyp-car

Van,

In my experience with pulling the engines out of these cars the torque tube would have to come back and you would need to lift straight up to avoid removing the X-member. If you try to slide the engine forward off of the torque tube you will find that the oil pan bumps into the crossmember, requiring you to remove it for the engine to come far enough forward to disengage the torque tube/driveshaft from the clutch/bellhousing.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I remember having this very issue when I was doing my swap...had to drop the crossmember out of the car to pull the engine out the top.

Ethan

mhr

I just swapped my motor on my S2 cab and I went out the top. In the end I had to drop the cross-member about 6 inches in order to clear the oil pan and disconnect the TT. Did not have to remove the radiator just the fans.

Mark

Van

So, it sounds like the consensus is, to drop the cross member to change the rod bearings and oil pan gasket.

Parptarf

Yep, I've heard it's a fairly simple job myself though never actually done it.

It's just "bolt off and bolt on" right? Using proper torque settings and things like that of course.

Mister Quickie

This instructional post was impossible (for me) to follow.



This one seems more followable:
http://www.paragon-products.com/kb_results.asp?ID=63



However, when looking at these pieces, which are not too expensive compared to some of the Lindsey line, if I were to go with these, would swapping the original parts with the Lindey parts save me time upfront or only on subsequent jobs? I'm thinking the latter
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Part...OSSMEMBER.html
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/944XOVRKKK.html

sstrickstein

When I rebuilt my engine 5 years ago we pulled it out the top. It was a pain and took 4-5 hours. Putting it in from the bottom..... 2 hours. Don't waste time dropping that the entire assembly out the bottom attached to the subframe and then disassembling is much easier. That's the way that factory built them.

Mister Quickie

I'm not sure I understand

jeffrsmith

I think he meant -

Don't waste time, dropping that the entire assembly out the bottom (while) attached to the subframe, and then disassembling, is much easier.

Mister Quickie

Sorry, ESL student here. One last refinement:

Don't waste time. Drop the entire assembly (leaving it attached to the subframe) out from the bottom. Then disassemble the dropped assembly. That is much easier.

Correct?

Van

That's how I do it. I've actually made a dolly that has wheels and bolts to the sub frame. Then I can lift the car up and roll the engine away. Take the bell housing off, put on an engine stand bracket, put it on the engine stand, then pull off the dolly and sub frame.

Mister Quickie

Was looking at the past invoices and found:

Date of Service: 10/1/2007
Mileage: 142,515
Parts: "Rod Bearing Set" $111.47
Labor: "(Combination) CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - Replace - All" : 1.4 Hrs $127.75

Date of Service: 12/20/2010
Mileage: 152,689
Parts: "Rod Bearing Set" $162.87
Labor: "(Combination) CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - Replace - One" : 2.0 Hrs $202.50

Current mileage is ~174,000

Q1: "Rod Bearing Set" = "Rod Bearing Kit"?
Q2: "(Combination) CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS" = "Rod Bearings"?
Q3: My research shows this is a 16-20 hour job but the labor here shows 1.4 and 2.0 hours, most likely due to the major expense being the oil pan gasket replacement?
Q4: On the later invoice (2010), this seems like only one bearing was replaced. Why not replace them all while you're "in there"?
Q5: If all the rod bearings were replaced at 142k miles and I'm now at 174k miles, I should wait at least another 50k-60k miles before doing this?

Thanks

Van

Q1 - yes
Q2 - yes
Q3 - you tell us - are there more labor items for oil pan gasket and alignment?
Q4 - you'd have to ask the shop that question...
Q5 - this is a matter of personal preference... according to the invoices, at least 1 rod bearing needed to be replaced after 10k miles. It's been 32k miles since they were last looked at and/or replaced. You might be able to go another 50k-60k miles, but the answer to that is your own risk/reward tolerance.

Scott at Team Harco

That's the way I have done it. I had to replace the pan gasket and decided to do the rod bearings, "while in there". Additionally, I don't believe I separated the engine from the bell housing.

I don't recall any issues - though it was probably ten years ago, now. Not to mention... I don't recall what I had for dinner last night.

Mister Quickie

Yes. The invoice showed a hefty charge for an oil pan gasket replacement.



Since I'm not tracking this car I'll put this project on the backburner, thks