A Practical guide to megasquirting your 944
#166
Thanks Dougs951S n Odonnell
After a year or so of playing around with trying to get my own hand built MS II to work in My '86 I finally got the car running and moving under power controlled by MS II
Got the Mistress going about 85 and not bucking or popping and backfiring actually pretty smooth at speed but the take off map still needs work a lil off idle dip. but the car is drivable..
Yeah Me...
But this wouldn't be possible without the insight and help that these 2 Men provided directly or indirectly from post or answering direct questions Or posting your Maps
used them to set and calibrate my VE maps... Still have a few bugs to work out... 1 tach doesn't work. need to purge air from cooling system too many temp fluctuations amazing what you notice after
looking at your data logs.... figure out away to truly make a cold air intake got rid of Airbox and AFM running a cone airfilter with autozone generic 3" intake tube necked down to fit the J boot with the
IAT plumbed into the tube I am see 160* airtemp sitting still the airfilter is resting on top of the Alt so when the Rad fan fires up I'm sucking hot air, but moving there no problem... think that might be part
of my off idle dip problem..
So here's my setup as it stands
MS II Diy Autotune kit Ver 3.0 untimed Injection, Single coil, extra MPX4250 MAP Sensor MAP for Alt correction I live at almost 5K Alt
HC 05 Bluetooth Module and FTDI USB to Serial Module are hard wired in for tuning.
Injectors: 4 Bosch 0280155868 flows 375 cc/min at a tested pressure of 3 bar, or 36 lbs/hr at 43.5 psi.
flows 342 cc/min at a tested pressure of 2.5bar, or 33 lbs/hr at 36.2594 psi.
Latency (dead time)@ 12volts=0.621 ms @ 14volts=0.391 ms. I have it set to 13volts=0.500 ms Battery Offset= .118
FUEL NOZZLE: 4-HOLE DISC - Ultimate Atomization High-impedance/high-resistance/14.0 Ohms
Crank Wheel http://www.goingsuperfast.com 944 Trigger Wheel
Crank Sensor BWD Part # CSS718 out of a ford
IAT Sensor BWD WT3051 98 99 00 01 Mustang 4.6
TPS Sensor 944 Turbo
CLT Sensor 944
944 DME Male connector 825213-1 35 POS TAB HOUSING http://www.te.com/usa-en/home.html . But I still had make a custom wire harness prob integrate it all into stock harness
Wide Band O2 Sensor Controller Spartan 2 OEM from 14Point7 http://www.14point7.com/products/spartan-2-oem
O2 Sensor Bosch LSU 4.9 Wideband O2 Sensor
Idle Control Valve Bosch 2 wire Idle Control Valve from a Volvo p/n GEGT7610-324
Thanks again Dougs951S n Odonnell
Got the Mistress going about 85 and not bucking or popping and backfiring actually pretty smooth at speed but the take off map still needs work a lil off idle dip. but the car is drivable..
Yeah Me...
But this wouldn't be possible without the insight and help that these 2 Men provided directly or indirectly from post or answering direct questions Or posting your Maps
used them to set and calibrate my VE maps... Still have a few bugs to work out... 1 tach doesn't work. need to purge air from cooling system too many temp fluctuations amazing what you notice after
looking at your data logs.... figure out away to truly make a cold air intake got rid of Airbox and AFM running a cone airfilter with autozone generic 3" intake tube necked down to fit the J boot with the
IAT plumbed into the tube I am see 160* airtemp sitting still the airfilter is resting on top of the Alt so when the Rad fan fires up I'm sucking hot air, but moving there no problem... think that might be part
of my off idle dip problem..
So here's my setup as it stands
MS II Diy Autotune kit Ver 3.0 untimed Injection, Single coil, extra MPX4250 MAP Sensor MAP for Alt correction I live at almost 5K Alt
HC 05 Bluetooth Module and FTDI USB to Serial Module are hard wired in for tuning.
Injectors: 4 Bosch 0280155868 flows 375 cc/min at a tested pressure of 3 bar, or 36 lbs/hr at 43.5 psi.
flows 342 cc/min at a tested pressure of 2.5bar, or 33 lbs/hr at 36.2594 psi.
Latency (dead time)@ 12volts=0.621 ms @ 14volts=0.391 ms. I have it set to 13volts=0.500 ms Battery Offset= .118
FUEL NOZZLE: 4-HOLE DISC - Ultimate Atomization High-impedance/high-resistance/14.0 Ohms
Crank Wheel http://www.goingsuperfast.com 944 Trigger Wheel
Crank Sensor BWD Part # CSS718 out of a ford
IAT Sensor BWD WT3051 98 99 00 01 Mustang 4.6
TPS Sensor 944 Turbo
CLT Sensor 944
944 DME Male connector 825213-1 35 POS TAB HOUSING http://www.te.com/usa-en/home.html . But I still had make a custom wire harness prob integrate it all into stock harness
Wide Band O2 Sensor Controller Spartan 2 OEM from 14Point7 http://www.14point7.com/products/spartan-2-oem
O2 Sensor Bosch LSU 4.9 Wideband O2 Sensor
Idle Control Valve Bosch 2 wire Idle Control Valve from a Volvo p/n GEGT7610-324
Thanks again Dougs951S n Odonnell
#167
Race Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
Posts: 3,602
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7 Posts
Small update..
Had a small electrical fire in my central fuse box, the DME relay and associated wiring is no longer useable. I made a new relay and fuse panel that is superior to using the factory wiring and (lack of) fusing scheme.
For starters, here are some roughly estimated peak current draws for the various associated fuel injection components:
4x high z injectors: 5A
Stock fuel pump: 7A
HV fuel pump: 10A
044 pump: 15A
MS: 1A
LS2 coils: 7.3A @ 5ms dwell
Yukon coils: 11.3A @ 5ms dwell
I am using two 40A relays triggered together off the ignition switch through a 3A fuse and 16 awg wire. Relay #1 powers the MS and the fuel injectors. Power comes in from the battery along a 12awg wire through a 10A fuse. power goes out to the MS 12v input pin through a 2A fuse and 18 awg wire, and out to the four injectors via a 12 awg wire through a 7.5A fuse. Relay #2 power the fuel pump and the ignition coils. Battery+ comes in via from a 12awg wire through a 35A fuse. Power goes out to the fuel pump via 12 awg wire and a 15A fuse, and out to the four ignition coils via a 12 awg wire and a 20A fuse. All fuses are inline ACT mini blade type inside waterproof holders, with 12 awg leads. The ground wires for both relays are 16 awg wire. In total there are 7 fuses protecting 4 load elements (coils, fuel pump, injectors, and MS), the joint control side of both relays, and the two high power inputs to the two relays. I'll draw a schematic later but just wanted to include this small update. I no longer use the DME relay, and everything operates just as it did with my old setup; except now all the circuits are overload and fault protected.
Cheers folks.
Had a small electrical fire in my central fuse box, the DME relay and associated wiring is no longer useable. I made a new relay and fuse panel that is superior to using the factory wiring and (lack of) fusing scheme.
For starters, here are some roughly estimated peak current draws for the various associated fuel injection components:
4x high z injectors: 5A
Stock fuel pump: 7A
HV fuel pump: 10A
044 pump: 15A
MS: 1A
LS2 coils: 7.3A @ 5ms dwell
Yukon coils: 11.3A @ 5ms dwell
I am using two 40A relays triggered together off the ignition switch through a 3A fuse and 16 awg wire. Relay #1 powers the MS and the fuel injectors. Power comes in from the battery along a 12awg wire through a 10A fuse. power goes out to the MS 12v input pin through a 2A fuse and 18 awg wire, and out to the four injectors via a 12 awg wire through a 7.5A fuse. Relay #2 power the fuel pump and the ignition coils. Battery+ comes in via from a 12awg wire through a 35A fuse. Power goes out to the fuel pump via 12 awg wire and a 15A fuse, and out to the four ignition coils via a 12 awg wire and a 20A fuse. All fuses are inline ACT mini blade type inside waterproof holders, with 12 awg leads. The ground wires for both relays are 16 awg wire. In total there are 7 fuses protecting 4 load elements (coils, fuel pump, injectors, and MS), the joint control side of both relays, and the two high power inputs to the two relays. I'll draw a schematic later but just wanted to include this small update. I no longer use the DME relay, and everything operates just as it did with my old setup; except now all the circuits are overload and fault protected.
Cheers folks.
Last edited by Dougs951S; 12-28-2017 at 03:25 AM.
#168
Racer
This spring I am starting the prep to Microsquirt my NA to be ready for a subsequent supercharger project.
My question is recommendations for ignition. Simple is best for me right now. So what should I consider with pros and cons of each.
1. BIP373 module or DIY with stock coil and distributor?
2. Bosch igniter with IGN-4 module in wasted spark?
Those are the 2 I am leaning towards right now. I'd prefer to buy turnkey and avoid pulling parts from the junkyard, not because I can't but just don't want to right now. But I don't want to spend more $ on this then I have to.
Thanks
My question is recommendations for ignition. Simple is best for me right now. So what should I consider with pros and cons of each.
1. BIP373 module or DIY with stock coil and distributor?
2. Bosch igniter with IGN-4 module in wasted spark?
Those are the 2 I am leaning towards right now. I'd prefer to buy turnkey and avoid pulling parts from the junkyard, not because I can't but just don't want to right now. But I don't want to spend more $ on this then I have to.
Thanks
#169
Rennlist Member
For Microsquirt you can directly fire logic level coils (i.e. igniter is built in, such as an LS1 coil). As you said, you need to add circuitry to fire a standard coil. I went with wasted spark LS1 coils because it was very straightforward to set up and the bracket was a 10 minute job. So to me, that was easier than fooling around with stock parts. Wasted spark without an igniter module, plus no cap/rotor issues.
#171
Doug, sorry to hear about your electrical fire. A few years ago I modify my friends 86 Dodge Daytona to have a Power Distribution Center. Fuel pump, starter, radiator fan, a/c clutch relays along with maxi -amp fuses to handle the heavy loads. This was a great mod using Junk yard parts. Something to consider.
BTW I have follow this thread from the begin. Great work and although my car is running fine, mega squirt is something that I've have been considering for myself also.
BTW I have follow this thread from the begin. Great work and although my car is running fine, mega squirt is something that I've have been considering for myself also.
#173
Rennlist Member
You can try ebay. They're obviously plentiful so they aren't hard to find and are reliable. Mine are from a 2000 or 2001 Suburban and for all I know, are original parts. They have been fine for 3 years. I run them at around 4 ms dwell time.
#174
What are all of the turbo guys using for intake piping(filter to turbo w/ MAF and IAT)? My MS2 V3 build is complete and I have successfully tested it. I am considering running EDIS and triggering off of the cam like Dean924s. In the next few weeks I will acquire the necessary sensors and start to wire the car. It looks like the majority of Megasquirters (odd typing that) seem to pull power from the DME relay. Has anyone wired up their own relay panel for their MS install or have used the relay panel that attaches to the MS1/2? If I am going full stand alone I would like to consider removing old 80's electronic components, and would like to see if others have followed a similar route. I am not anywhere close to starting my car but If someone would be willing to send me/post any 944 Turbo base tunes, that would be greatly appreciated.
I would also like go ahead and thank odonnell, JustinL and Dougs951S for all the information provided in this thread. It has really peaked my interest and has been very informative.
I would also like go ahead and thank odonnell, JustinL and Dougs951S for all the information provided in this thread. It has really peaked my interest and has been very informative.
#175
Rennlist Member
Yes, I built a complete relay panel and deleted the DME relay. There's a video on my youtube channel but I'm unable to link from my work PC. In short, power comes into a main relay which is triggered by the ignition switch. From there it's passed to a 6-gang fuse block and distributed to various accessories... ECU, injectors, WBO2, fuel pump, etc. There are other relays for the fuel pump and cooling fans which are triggered by MS when it's their time to activate based on ECU output.
#179
Rennlist Member
Like most of us I'm sure.